The New Tutima Patria Power Reserve – Proudly Saxon
An elegant watch with a beautifully crafted movement honours Tutima's Saxon heritage.
While the Saxon manufacture Tutima is better known for its robust sports watches and Flieger chronographs, the brand has also recently started to explore different territories and the concept of in-house movements. For Baselworld 2018, Tutima expands its high-end Patria collection with a practical power reserve indication model. Here is our hands-on with the Tutima Patria Power Reserve.
Since the fall of the Berlin wall, the Glashütte region (under the communist regime for decades) has seen a remarkable revival of its proud, vibrant watchmaking tradition. Celebrated by watch fans, the resurrection of Saxon watchmaking has given birth to distinctively unique timepieces that can easily stand toe-to-toe with the best Swiss workmanship. Tutima is a fine example of this phenomenon. Renowned for its accessible instrument watches, Tutima was headquartered for a long time in the north of Germany until the Delectate family moved the brand back to its original home, inaugurating a new manufacture in Glashütte. There, the brand handcrafts the high-end Patria watches. The collection celebrates the brand’s prestigious history (Tutima was the quality label of the UROFA-UFAG group back in the first half of the 20th century) with beautiful in-house movements, including the superb Tempostopp Fly-back chronograph.
Unveiled at Baselworld 2018, the latest model of this collection, the Tutima Patria Power Reserve, features a practical power reserve indicator on the dial. The new function is displayed at 9 o’clock with two-tone markings over 300 degrees. Just like the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, it is slightly recessed. The silvered dial stands out with its clear graphics, clean aesthetics and understated styling. It is paired with thin, manually crafted solid gold hands.
Made in Germany. Tutima’s in-house hand-wound calibre 618 is an evolution of calibre 617. It features 34 additional components (including a planetary wheel and disc) for the power reserve indication mechanism and seven additional jewels. It is a large (31.6mm in diameter) movement operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and boasting a comfortable 65-hour power reserve. The free-sprung balance is held by an openworked cock and the hairspring has a Breguet terminal curve.
In the purest German tradition, calibre 618 features a three-quarter plate. Its decoration is different from the other Patria models, as the bridges are finished with frosting rather than Geneva stripes. The simple, minimalist look is truly compelling. Each part is manufactured with minute attention to detail. The chamfers are nicely polished and the steel ratchet and crown wheels feature a sunburst finish. Several jewels are held in beautiful gold chatons and the screw heads are finely polished.
The 18k pink gold case is 43mm in diameter and features the signature Patria fluted crown, protected by a crown guard. It is a rather large watch, but one that wears comfortably thanks to its curved lugs. The sapphire crystal is slightly domed and the exhibition case back provides an unimpeded view of calibre 618. A hand-sewn alligator leather strap secured with a pin buckle sets the final touch.
There is a lot to enjoy with the Tutima Patria Power Reserve. Loyal to the German school of watchmaking, this handsome watch feels functional, sharp and elegant at the same time. Its movement is truly magnificent. Fine workmanship, meticulous attention to detail and the mastery of traditional crafts are evident throughout. Price is set at EUR 16,000. For more information, visit www.tutima.com.
The things surrounding the crown ruin an otherwise classy and elegant watch. Dommage.
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