The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB303, SPB305, SPB307, SPB309 & SPB311
Seiko moves ahead with the Presage Sharp Edged Series and introduces new cases, movements and designs.
Ever since Seiko first presented the Presage series, it has been a fan-favourite with nicely executed cases, intriguing dials and reliable mechanical movements, at an attainable price point. Over the years the Japanese manufacturer has experimented with different finishes, colours and materials, mostly in the dial. The collection was expanded in 2020 with the Sharp Edged series, a more modern and sharply styled selection of watches. This Presage Sharp Edged Series is now once again growing, with no less than 5 new references: the SPB303, SPB 305, SPB307, SPB309 and SPB311.
The introduction of the Sharp Edged Series led to a new range of sportier styled watches, with some added complexity in its mechanics. Where the first Presage models were predominantly classical in style, with mostly time-only movements, that’s no longer the case now. Both the Presage and the Presage Sharp Edged Series are home to a wide range of styles, with added functionality like a GMT, power reserve, pointer date and day of the week indications. These five new models fall in line with the collection, with some receiving slightly retouched cases to boot.
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT SPB303 Limited Edition
First up is the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT SPB303, the only one that will be available in limited numbers. Mind you, with 900 pieces in total it’s not extremely rare or anything, but still limited. Its case is done in steel, and measures 42.2mm in width and 13.7mm in height. The watch has a sapphire crystal on both sides.
The dial features the familiar set-up of the previous Sharp Edged GMT models, with a fixed 24h bezel and ceramic insert, an Asanohna hemp-leaf textured dial and a two-tone inner ring as a day-night indicator. The indices and hands are faceted, with brushed and polished finishes and have LumiBrite inserts. Power comes from Seiko’s 6R64 GMT, which we know from previous models. With a 45-hour power reserve, it’s nothing overly special but does the job perfectly. It’s worn on a brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet, is limited to 900 pieces and retails for EUR 1,540.
Quick Facts – 42.2mm x 13.7mm – stainless steel case with super-hard coating, brushed and polished – fixed 24-hour bezel with dark blue insert – sapphire crystal on both sides – 100m water-resistant – textured Asanoha hemp-leaf patterned dial in dark blue – faceted, brushed and polished hands and indices – LumiBrite on hands and markers – Seiko 6R64, in-house – automatic winding – 28,800vph – 29 jewels – 45h power reserve – central hours, minutes, seconds and GMT, power reserve, pointer date – stainless steel bracelet, with secondary horse-leather strap – limited to 900 pieces – EUR 1,540
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Power Reserve SPB305 & SPB307
Next in line are two models that get a newly designed case, albeit the changes are quite subtle. The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Power Reserve SPB305 and SPB307 have a 40.2mm wide and 12.2mm thick stainless steel case with a brushed and polished finish. On paper, that sounds like quite an ok sized watch, but we’ll have to see in real life how it fits the wrist. Again, sapphire crystal covers both sides of the watches.
The SPB305 and SPB307 get dials with the same Asanoha hem-leaf texture, this time in Geppaku blue-white and Kuritobi black. Both have a trio of indications besides the central hours, minutes and seconds. At 3 o’clock there’s a day of the week subdial, at 6 o’clock there’s a pointer date subdial, and the power reserve at 9 o’clock completes the indications. It’s driven by Seiko’s 6R21 calibre which again provides 45 hours of running time. The Geppaku white-blue SPB305 and the Kurotobi black SPB307 come on a stainless steel bracelet with a folding buckle. Both retail for EUR 1,100.
Quick Facts – 40.2mm x 12.2mm – stainless steel case with super-hard coating, brushed and polished – sapphire crystal on both sides – 100m water-resistant – Geppaku blue-white or Kurotobi black dials with Asahona hemp-leaf texture – faceted, brushed and polished hands and indices – LumiBrite on hands and markers – Seiko 6R21, in-house – automatic winding – 28,800vph – 29 jewels – 45h power reserve – central hours, minutes seconds, with day of the week, date and power reserve subdials – stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp – EUR 1,100
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart SPB309 & SPB311
Lastly, we have the two Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart, with references SPB309 and SPB311. Both share the 40.2mm wide case of the SPB305 and SPB307 yet with a slightly slimmed-down profile (11.8mm versus 12.2mm). The finishing is again a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, and dial and movement are once more protected by a sapphire crystal.
The dials for the SPB309 and SPB311 come in Shironri white or Aisumi blue, colours inspired by Japanese culture and traditional craftsmanship. The Asanoha hemp-leaf pattern is broken up by a raised ring, separating the inner section with the section for the applied hour indices. The ring also incorporates the window to see the movement running underneath. The faceted hands and markers are either in steel or gold-coloured, with LumiBrite touches of course. A new movement is also introduced, the Seiko calibre 6R38. This runs at a slower rate (21,600vph) and comes with a more than generous 70h power reserve. The SPB309 is fitted to a stainless steel bracelet, with the SPB311 receiving a dark brown leather strap. The price for both is set at EUR 1,000.
Quick Facts – 40.2mm x 11.8mm – stainless steel case with super-hard coating, brushed and polished – sapphire crystal on both sides – 100m water-resistance – Shironeri white or Aisumi blue open-heart dials with Asahona hemp-leaf pattern – faceted, brushed and polished hands and indices – LumiBrite on hands and markers – Seiko 6R38, in-house – automatic winding – 21,600vph – 24 jewels – 70h power reserve – central hours, minutes, seconds – stainless steel bracelet or brown leather strap – EUR 1,000
All watches will be available from June 2022 through Seiko Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide. For more information, please visit SeikoWatches.com
I saw a Sharp Edge GMT a few days ago. I feel that it offers good value, but it wasn’t difficult to see that it compares poorly with the Tudor GMT. To me, the case doesn’t have the finesse of the Tudor, and the dealer told me that the likely accuracy would be +/- 7 seconds a day at best. There’s a yawning gap between this range (and King Seiko) and the Grand Seiko collection. I don’t understand why they seem to be leaving that segment of the market.