The Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon, with the First Diamond-Set Balance Wheel in Modern Watchmaking

You might have heard of diamonds as endstones on the balance staff and the escapement, but putting them onto the balance wheel? Now, if you were to think of one watchmaker to do it, though, it would be Jacob & Co, never shy about challenging the conventions of high watchmaking. The new Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino, for the first time in modern watchmaking, the company says, has diamonds set directly onto the balance wheel, turning one of the movement’s most technically sensitive components into a moving source of sparkle.

The 30m water-resistant 42mm case is crafted from 18K white gold and measures 11.61mm thick. Its surface is invisibly set with 194 baguette-cut pastel sapphires, joined by 32 baguette-cut white diamonds. The crown adds another 12 sapphires and one diamond. The sapphire crystal protects the dial, where the Arlequino decoration continues. Across the dial surface, 139 baguette-cut pastel sapphires and 23 white diamonds form a colourful geometric composition. Green, blue, lavender and pink stones contrast rather than blend, creating an ordered mosaic inspired by the costume of Arlecchino from the Italian commedia dell’arte. Leaf-shaped hands indicate the time.

The flying tourbillon above the 6 o’clock position is the mechanical focal point; the diamond-set balance wheel adds a totally different dimension. As the balance oscillates at 21,600 vibrations/hour and the tourbillon rotates once per minute, the diamonds continually change their relationship with the light, creating the appearance of a luminous halo. The balance wheel is one real technical statement. Adding stones to a regulating organ can alter its mass and weight distribution, potentially affecting its performance. Here, Jacob & Co. has therefore integrated the 54 diamonds yet says the balance wheel’s required characteristics were preserved.

The new self-winding JCFA02 calibre combines a micro-rotor with a flying tourbillon and delivers 72 hours of power reserve. Measuring 30.4mm by 6.9mm, it comprises 184 components. The bridges are set with 234 brilliant-cut white diamonds, extending the high-jewellery treatment caseback side.

The watch is worn on an alligator strap closed with an 18K white-gold tang buckle set with 21 baguette-cut pastel Arlequino sapphires, approximately 1.52 carats. The Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino is a unique piece; the price is upon request. For more, visit jacobandco.com.