The Ceon GR-01, an Indie Watch Designed and Built in Brazil

Independent watchmaking sprouts far beyond well-known centres, and one of the latest examples comes from an unexpected country we largely associate with Carnival, samba, football legends, and the Amazon rainforest. Ceon Watch Co., a new atelier based in Curitiba, Brazil, reveals the GR-01, an ultra-thin integrated watch conceived, manufactured and hand-finished by founder Ricardo A. Gracioli, making it one of the very few higher-end mechanical watches designed and produced in the country.

The GR-01 was developed over four years and reflects Gracioli’s engineering background. It offers slim proportions and a clean, industrial design, influenced by the integrated-sports-watch genre. Measuring 38mm in diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug and only 6mm thick, the watch has a minimalist aesthetic defined by broad flat surfaces. The case (and the dial and the bracelet) is made from VC-150, a heat-treated Brazilian martensitic tool steel originally employed in steam turbine blades.

According to the brand, the material provides the strength required for such a thin construction while also providing the magnetic properties needed for the watch’s unusual clasp, more on that later. The three-piece case construction includes the solid caseback and the round bezel. The bezel ring, the case middle and the caseback are held together by eight studs and screws, with stud heads aligned and positioned in pairs at cardinal points. The GR-01 is fitted with a sapphire crystal; water resistance is not officially rated. Here, the emphasis is placed on design and material finishing.

Every case and bracelet first receives hand sanding and lapping to create mirror-polished surfaces. These are then stonewashed to produce a matte appearance that reveals the underlying polish when viewed under changing light. In the end, each chamfer is hand-polished using pegwood and diamond paste, for crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces. Gracioli explains that the high polish applied also serves a practical purpose.  The VC-150 is classified as stainless steel, but it is not as corrosion-resistant as 316L or 904L. The mirror polish removes points where rust can accumulate, as a result of a process called pitting. Also, a chemical process is applied to the steel, forcing the formation of a protective chromium oxide layer on every part.

The dial, also machined from the VC-150 steel, follows a minimalist, monochromatic approach, with polished Dauphine hands indicating hours and minutes on a chapter ring with no other markings except four sectors. The recessed running seconds subdial is at 6 o’clock, along with the maker’s signature, R. A. Gracioli.

The Ceon Watches GR-01 is powered by the well-known (and indie-favourite) Peseux 7001, the slim hand-wound movement introduced in 1971. Measuring only 2.5mm thick, the calibre beats at 21,600 vibrations/hour, offers 42 hours of power reserve, and allows for impressively slim proportions while remaining serviceable and reliable.

The bracelet clasp is quite original. Designed by Ricardo A. Gracioli, for closure, it relies on a single magnet and a precisely machined pair of guide pins rather than a traditional folding mechanism. As explained, “most stainless steel is non-magnetic; heat changes that for VC-150 – after quenching, it becomes ferromagnetic”. Now, if some were to question a magnet in movement’s proximity, the cartefully calculated thickness of the caseback and the added 0.2 mm permalloy sheet as an extra layer of protection do the job, ensuring that the movement is properly shielded. The clasp measures just 3mm thick, maintaining the bracelet’s continuous profile and flexibility.

The Ceon GR-01 is available only through direct inquiry with the atelier. Prospective owners must submit a declaration of interest before discussing the project directly with the maker. Each watch is then built to order in Brazil, with an estimated delivery time of around six months. Priced at CHF 15,000, the GR-01 adds a new voice to the increasingly global community of independent horology. For more, visit ceonwatches.com.