Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The 270th-Anniversary Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface
A trilogy of openworked models showcase the brand’s mechanical sophistication in a more contemporary light.
Not all of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-anniversary pieces are steeped in classicism. The three Traditionnelle Openface models are refreshingly contemporary, offering a view of the modern architecture of their calibres. While the complications differ from model to model, the new trilogy shares openworked dials, a special guilloché pattern designed to mark the anniversary and luxurious platinum cases with stepped lugs, fluting and a slender bezel. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date, powered by a new in-house movement, the Tourbillon Retrograde Date and the Complete Calendar Openface references are each limited editions of 370 individually numbered pieces.
Having mentioned the contemporary spirit of the Openface dials, it might come as a surprise to learn that Vacheron had an openworked model in its archives, in the form of a pocket watch with an astronomical calendar produced in 1918. Almost 100 years later, the concept was revisited with the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar in 2019, followed by the Traditionnelle Openface Complete Calendar in 2021 and the Traditionnelle Toubillon Retrograde Openface in 2023. Retrograde displays are another in-house speciality, as evidenced by the Don Pancho wristwatch of 1940, the 1994 Mercator and the 245th-anniversary ref.47425.
While the openworked areas consume a lot of the dial, the remaining areas are decorated with the special 270th-anniversary guilloché motif inspired by the Maltese cross. All three models also share the Traditionnelle’s classical railway-style minutes track, applied white gold indices and faceted gold Dauphine hour and minute hands. Another anniversary signature is the ‘côte unique’ finishing applied to the bridges, a traditional decoration used by the Maison over a century ago. Lastly, all three watches are fitted with a dark blue hand-stitched alligator strap with a platinum folding buckle shaped like a half Maltese cross.
Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface
The newcomer to the Openface series, this model flaunts a slim new automatic manufacture movement- calibre 2460 QPR31/270 – combining a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date with a height of just 5.45mm. The calendar functions are relayed on sapphire crystal discs to avoid hampering the view. A blue background indicates the current day of the week, month and leap year and will need no correction until 2100. At 6 o’clock, the scenery is enlivened with a moon phase display with a realistic silvery lunar surface. In the top half of the dial is a blued gold hand pointing to the retrograde date track with blue numerals.
Quick facts: 41mm x 10.94mm – platinum case – 30m WR – openworked dial with hand-guilloché anniversary motif – calendar functions on sapphire crystal discs – precision moon phase display at 6 o’clock – retrograde date with blued hand – VC manufacture calibre 2460 QPR31/270, automatic – 29mm x 5.45mm – 4Hz/28,800vph – 312 components, 27 jewels – 40h power reserve – ‘côte unique’ finish on bridges – hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, precision moon phase and retrograde date – Hallmark of Geneva – ref. 4030T/000P-H054 – limited to 370 pieces – price to be confirmed
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Exposing the mechanics of the retrograde date system in the upper half of the dial, the date is relayed on a track with blue numerals and indicated by a blued gold hand with an open arrow tip. A second opening on the dial reveals the slow revolutions of the 2.5Hz tourbillon with its signature Maltese cross bridge. The watch is powered with a peripheral gold rotor, and the barrel can store up to 72 hours of power reserve.
Quick facts: 41mm x 11.07mm – platinum case – 30m WR – openworked dial with hand-guilloché anniversary motif – exposed mechanics of retrograde date system, track with blue numerals and blued hand – tourbillon at 6 o’clock with small seconds – VC manufacture calibre 2162 R31/270, automatic – 31mm x 6.35mm – 2.5Hz/18,000vph – 242 components, 30 jewels, 72h power reserve – ‘côte unique’ finish on bridges – hours, minutes, retrograde date, small seconds on tourbillon – Hallmark of Geneva – ref. 6010T/000P-H055 – limited to 370 pieces – price to be confirmed
Traditionelle Complete Calendar Openface
The openworked dial of this triple calendar features two sapphire discs in the upper half of the dial, one for the day of the week and the other for the month. Being sapphire, the discs allow a clear view of the components positioned on the lower level. The precision moon phase counter at 6 o’clock will only need an adjustment once in 122 years, and the date on the periphery is indicated by a blued gold pointer hand. Powered by VC’s calibre 2460, this movement is a modern upgrade of the 2450, the first automatic complete calendar movement designed and developed in-house.
Quick facts: 41mm x 11.05mm – platinum case – 30m WR – openworked dial with hand-guilloché anniversary motif and exposed mechanics – 2 sapphire discs with day of week and month, precision moon phase display at 6 o’clock, date on periphery with blued pointer hand – VC manufacture 2460 QCL/270 automatic – 29mm x 6.35mm – 4Hz/28,800vph – 312 components, 27 jewels – 40h power reserve – ‘côte unique’ finish on bridges – hours, minutes, complete calendar with day, date, month, precision moon phases – Hallmark of Geneva – 4020T/000P-H038 – limited to 370 pieces – price to be confirmed
More information at vacheron-constantin.com.
