Our Top Picks From This Year’s Geneva Watch Days Novelties

This year’s Geneva Watch Days was perhaps the hottest edition to date, both in actual daytime temperatures and in watches. With the thermometer hitting 30° Celius pretty much the entire week, we were impressed by the amount of genuinely innovative and creative watchmaking on display. From a skeletonized ultra-thin version of the Speake Marin Ripples to a slew of incredibly complex chiming watches by Bulgari, there was a lot to love. We even saw one of the oldest names in the industry, Favre Leuba (originally founded in 1737), stage a grand return! But what got the MONOCHROME Editorial Team the most excited? Well, you’ll find out in a bit, as we present our top picks from all of this year’s novelties presented during Geneva Watch Days 2024.

The Speake Marin Ripples Skeleton

The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Chronograph

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing

We just have to mention this one, and there was no debate within MONOCHROME’s editorial team whatsoever. What Konstantin Chaykin has done with his new ThinKing, now the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at just 1.65mm, is, simply put, outstanding. With it, he has bested the developmental (and budgetary) strength of Piaget, Bulgari and Richard Mille. The clever construction does have one shortcoming, which is the fact that time cannot be set on its own. The solution? The micro-rotor-driven PalanKing carrier case, which makes the ThinKing a manual/automatic hybrid! Absolutely brilliant! As this is a prototype, no price is known yet.

For more information on Konstantin Chaykin and ThinKing, please refer to our initial article here.

M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S

The ‘S’ in M.A.D. Editions’ new M.A.D.1S stands for three things: Slimmer, Single Cylinder and Swiss Made. It’s basically an evolution of the ultra-cool original M.A.D.1 made possible thanks to La Joux-Perret’s latest G100 automatic movement. Still raffled off in the fairest way imaginable, the M.A.D.1S comes in two versions. The one in purple is for the Friends and Tribe members of the brand, and the ice blue one is the publicly available edition. The new design makes it sleeker than ever before and an even better fit on the wrist. And on top of all that, if you’re a lucky winner it will set you back the same CHF 2,900 (before taxes)! What’s not to like?

For more details about the M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S, check out our introduction story here.

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

In honour of the 15th anniversary of the brand’s manufacture, Armin Strom presented the impressive Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. As one of the few brands to master the resonance phenomenon for its application inside a wristwatch, the brand takes another big step by pairing it with a travel-ready complication. The First Edition splits time between two dials, independently set through two separate crowns. Both have a sky-blue grenage finish and come with day/night indicators. The movement is regulated by two balance wheels, linked by the resonance clutch spring, to balance out irregularities between the two. It’s also worth mentioning it’s the most compact resonance watch to date, at 39mm in diameter. It’s limited to 25 pieces, comes in white gold only, and costs EUR 133,300.

For more on the very technical Armin Strom GMT Resonance First Edition, please head over to our previous article.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone

For Geneva Watch Days, Laurent Ferrier has opted to blend its refined codes of the Classic/Galet with the robustness of its sports watches and give it a scrumptious new dial colour. The result is the Classic Auto Sandstone, an absolutely mesmerizing watch with tons of detail to be discovered. It starts with the elegantly shaped 40mm stainless steel case, fitted with a light copper-toned dial. The standout element is the date window, or rather, how it’s integrated into the dial. Around the back, the visual feast continues with an unobstructed view of the calibre LF270.01 and its platinum micro-rotor. As part of the Serie Atelier collection, all 20 pieces will be exclusively sold online for a price of CHF 50,000.

For all the details on the gorgeous Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone, please see here.

De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite

Fueled by the boundless passion for blacksmithing and watchmaking of Denis Flageollet, De Bethune introduced two new watches, of which we fell for the DB28XS Aérolite. It combines several key elements in a single watch, such as the ultra-thin case construction, the signature floating lugs, the impeccably finished movement and so on. But the star of the show is the dial, which is a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite decorated with a random guilloché pattern and a thermally oxidized finish. It might sound like a bit much, but the end result is insanely impressive and surprisingly coherent! Limited by annual production, the DB28XS Aérolite will set you back USD 120,000.

For more on the De Bethune DB28XS Meteorite, a hands-on article will follow soon.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon

Considered to be one of the most influential independent watchmakers, it’s thrilling to see the name of Daniel Roth back in full swing again. While the yellow gold relaunch Tourbillon was strictly limited to 20 pieces, it now returns in rose gold as a slightly less limited run of 50 pieces per year. It has retained the iconic Double-Ellipse case fitted with a movement based on the Tourbillon C187. This new iteration has black printed Roman numerals and blackened hands on the offset dial, as opposed to the more common blue. The biggest difference, however, is the change of pattern surrounding the dial, from hobnail to linear guilloché. At CHF 155,000 it is far from affordable, but it’s one of the most impressive watches in recent years, period!

For all the details on the stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon, we invite you to read our in-depth story here.

Lederer Observatoire Chronometry

The origins of watchmaking come down to the quest for the most precise timekeeping instruments, essential in the early days of navigation and exploration. Bernhard Lederer has decided to put its stupendous CIC through rigorous evaluation from three leading observatories in Glashütte, Besançon and Geneva. Adopting a new dial design in solid silver, the geographical locations of the three observatories are featured in the small seconds sub-dial. The minutes hand, fitted with a very small pointer, follows the rhythm of the remontoir in 6 steps of 10 seconds each. Around the back, the stunning mechanical movement that powers it all can be seen from multiple angles, thanks to the bowl-shaped sapphire crystal. Only eight will be made at a price of CHF 146,000 excluding VAT.

For more on this new Lederer Observatoire Chronometry, we’ll follow up with a proper hands-on article soon.

H. Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g Passion Fruit

Collaborations are a common practice in watchmaking nowadays, but the one between H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g is literally a rather fruity one. It sort of bridges the gap between Moser’s high-end Endeavour Perpetual Calendar and Studio Underd0g’s more budget-friendly manually wound chronograph with a passion fruit-inspired colour theme. And I say “sort of” deliberately because they are only sold as a set. Nevertheless, it’s a cool pair of watches with a striking blend of colours and mechanics, perhaps best considered a ‘his-and-hers’ or ‘father-and-son’ package deal. Only 100 sets will be made available for CHF 59,000.

For more information on this tasty collaboration between H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g, please check our interview here.