Naoya Hida Presents its 2026 Collection, Incl. a Valjoux 23 Chronograph

It is no secret that Japan is becoming one of the most productive hubs for high-end independent watchmaking, with names such as Hajime Asaoka (also behind Kurono Tokyo and Takano), Jiro Katayama (Otsuka Lotec), Daizoh Makihara, and Norifumi Seki (Quiet Club) gaining incredible traction in recent years. Another name that cannot be forgotten is Naoya Hida, a brand founded in 2012 and focused on delivering ultra-classic watches with vintage Calatrava inspirations (for most of the models) and a discreet Japanese twist in the execution. For 2026, the brand introduces seven new designs, in addition to three models carried over from last year, and that includes a spectacular new chronograph powered by a vintage movement. 

The 2026 production of Naoya Hida, still highly limited in numbers, will be focused on 10 references, including three that are carried over from last year (NH TYPE3B, NH TYPE3B-3, and NH TYPE6A Perpetual Calendar). This leaves us with no fewer than 7 new designs, most of them relying on existing watches that have been tweaked – such as the rectangular TYPE5A or the TYPE3 Moonphase – as well as two entirely new watches that are certainly going to create some noise, a very compact Calatrava-styled model with a new (and visible) movement, and a classic 1940s chronograph that is powered by vintage, restored movements.

Naoya Hida’s first chronograph, the NH TYPE7A

Before we explore the new collection of Naoya Hida, we can’t skip the most important of the novelties, the NH TYPE7A, the brand’s first chronograph. And let’s go straight to the point, it looks fantastic… Obviously, being directly inspired by some of the great classics that are, in particular, the Patek reference 1463 Tasti Tondi. The idea of a chronograph powered by a vintage movement started all the way back when Hida started his brand in 2012, but limited experience and concerns about sourcing spare parts prevented him from doing so. However, a few years ago, Hida acquired a significant number of vintage movements, including some iconic Valjoux 23(236) chronograph calibres.

The result is now alive, with a 36mm 904L steel chronograph, measuring only 11.7mm in thickness. The design is classic, with a concave polished bezel and engine-turned motif on the pushers (typical of the Tasti Tondi watches). The dial, made of German silver, has laser-engraved logos and tracks, and hand-engraved Breguet numerals filled with synthetic Japanese lacquer (Cashew). The hands are solid yellow gold for the time, and heat-blued steel for the chronograph.

Under the closed back are restored vintage Valjoux 236 hand-wound chronograph movements, with a classic column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture. Worn on a Granite calf leather by Jean Rousseau, the production of the Naoya Hida NH TYPE7A Chronograph is limited to 10 pieces between 2026 and 2027 and the watch is priced at JPY 5,300,000 or USD 38,300.

The new 31mm NH TYPE 8A

Alongside the chronograph, the other entirely new model for Naoya Hida’s 2026 collection is a watch that looks strongly at the past, a model directly inspired by the original Calatrava 96 and Breguet 3210, even in terms of proportions. Indeed, the Naoya Hida NH TYPE8A measures only 31mm in diameter, classic back in the days but now considered small. And that’s exactly why Hida has created the TYPE8A… Developing the movement of the Type5A pushed him to design a small movement that positions the small seconds far from the dial centre, leading to the creation of this small, ultra-refined model made of 904L steel and measuring 8.9mm in thickness, with a screwed back.

Under the sapphire crystal is an engraved German silver dial with Breguet numerals, small seconds at 6 o’clock and blued steel hands – all greatly executed, as always. The other side, also with a sapphire crystal, reveals the new calibre 2326SS, a 23.5mm hand-wound movement beating at 3Hz and storing 38h of power reserve. Even though Hida doesn’t indicate the origin of the movement’s base, it shares a lot of similarities with the Peseux 7001 architecture. With 20 pieces to be produced between 2026 and 2027, the Naoya Hida NH TYPE8A is priced at JPY 3,200,000 or USD 23,100.

A classic revised, the NH TYPE1E

First seen as a prototype in 2018 and launched in 2019 as Naoya Hida’s first production model, the Type1 is undergoing yet another evolution this year. The fifth iteration of the model, it now comes in a new 36mm case, giving the watch an even more refined yet confident look. While it may resemble the NH Type1D at first glance, the differences are clear upon direct comparison. The redesigned sapphire crystal now features a more pronounced domed profile, enhancing depth and dimension. Consequently, the case thickness has increased from 9.8mm to 10.9mm, further elevating the watch’s visual impact.

This watch is still powered by the hand-wound calibre 3019SS, based on chronograph-free Valjoux 7750 ébauches that are heavily reworked. With a production expected at 25 pieces in the coming year, the NH TYPE1E is priced at JPY 2,700,000 or USD 19,500.

The NH TYPE2C-2, the first porcelain dial

The NH TYPE2 series debuted in 2020 with the NH TYPE2A, as a counterpart of the TYPE1, which here featured a hand-wound centre-seconds movement, the calibre 3020CS (same reworked Valjoux base). Then came several editions, such as the NH TYPE2C and Lettercutter versions. Still measuring 37mm, the steel case of this new variant is classic with a curved sapphire crystal and a screwed back. What’s new is the dial, which is made for the first time in porcelain. The result is a glossy milky white dial with clean markers and numerals, enhanced by hand-painted indexes and logo.

Production of the NH TYPE2C-2 is expected to be around 10 pieces for the coming 12 months, and the watch is priced at JPY 2,850,000 or USD 20,600.

The NH TYPE3B-4, art nouveau style

The NH TYPE3B-4 is the first NH TYPE3 series (a model equipped with a moon-phase complication) to feature hand-engraved decoration across the entire case surface, except for the bezel and caseback. Made of 18k yellow gold, it follows the same idea as the NH TYPE1D-3 in 2024, but pushes it even further. This year’s design motif is Art Nouveau, a style less common in watchmaking than Art Deco. Finally, gold leaf has been applied to the relief-sculpted Arabic numerals. Production is expected to be only 2 pieces for the coming year, with a price of JPY 15,000,000 or USD 108,300.

The NH TYPE5B, the rectangular watch refined

Part of his. 2024 collection, Naoya Hida introduced a brand new model housed in a rectangular case, the TYPE5A. This year, this compact yet impactful model is marginally updated with subtle case adjustments for a more refined and harmonious design. The dial design has been updated with a more classic and angular shape, more engraved numerals and larger hands. Also, lugs have been shortened by 1mm on each side, while the stepped section along the case flank was widened by 0.3mm. Minor updates that could make a greater impression in the metal.

10 pieces will be produced this year, priced at JPY 3,700,000 or USD 26,700.

The NH TYPE5B-1

Last but not least, a second version of the NH TYPE5B is launched this year, but featuring an acrylic crystal instead of a sapphire crystal, as seen already in 2025 with the NH TYPE5A-1. Benefitting from the same changes to the case as the watch above, it is differentiated by its dial, here with Breguet numerals. Also expected to be made in only 10 pieces this year, it is priced at JPY 3,700,000 or USD 26,700.

The entire 2026 collection of Naoya Hida will be available for purchase through the brand’s official website on Monday, May 18, 2026 (10 AM Japan time) to Thursday, May 21, 2026 (10 AM Japan time). For more details, please visit naoyahidawatch.com.