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Military Gear for the Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & Diver X Skeleton OPS

Ulysse Nardin Diver collection gets camo commando gear for underwater operations.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 4 min read |

Sustainability is a big trend in watchmaking today as brands jump on the bandwagon of environmentally friendly products. Some, like Chopard, ensure the sustainable source of their gold, while others look to innovative recycled materials with a lower carbon footprint. As a brand with legitimate and historical maritime ties, Ulysse Nardin’s environmental focus is the sea. One of its first watches to use recycled fishing nets was the Diver Net Concept Watch of 2020. Turning to its Diver collection again in 2024, Ulysse Nardin gives its Diver and Diver X Skeleton models a sustainable makeover with on-trend camouflage.

Used by animals to blend into the environment and survive attacks from predators, camouflage crossed over into the military to keep soldiers and their kit protected from enemy fire. A trend adopted across the board in watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin kitted its Freak One in military green to great effect. Borrowing the rugged military camo uniform of the Freak, the Diver Net Ops and Diver X Skeleton Ops (ops for operations) are prepped for action above and below the waves.

The Diver Net Ops

The more rugged 300m water-resistant Diver Net Ops comes in a 44mm case. Using Nylo (recycled fishing nets) and Carbonium (carbon fibre used for fuselage and wings of aircraft) for the flanks and caseback combined with recycled stainless steel for the movement holder, the brand claims the watch reduces its environmental impact by 40% compared to traditional cases. To complete the materials menu, the marbled unidirectional rotating bezel is made of Carbonium and the khaki green strap is partially made from recycled fishing nets. The watch can also be ordered with a green rubber strap and a black ceramic UN element.

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The khaki sandblasted dial is traversed by the signature X, picked out in green and black for the occasion. Thanks to the application of beige Super-LumiNova with a green emission, the indices and hands light up in the dark. Slightly recessed, the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock with an integrated date window with a green background is counterbalanced at noon by the power reserve indicator.

Powered by the brand’s first in-house base calibre (UN-118), this automatic movement is fitted with cutting-edge nanotechnology in the form of a DiamonSil escapement (an alliance of silicium and artificial diamond) and a silicium hairspring. The movement uses 50 jewels, runs at a rate of 28,800vph and provides 60 hours of power reserve.

Quick facts: 44mm x 14.81mm – Carbonium rotating dive bezel, recycled stainless steel case middle and movement holder, Nylo and Carbonium case flanks and caseback – domed sapphire crystal over dial, open sapphire caseback – 300m water-resistance – sandblasted green dial with embossed X, indices and hands with beige Super-LumiNova, date and small seconds at 6 o’clock, power reserve at 12 o’clock – UN-118 manufacture calibre, automatic, 28,800vph, silicon and DiamonSil technology escapement, 60h power reserve – green fabric strap partially made from upcycled fishing nets or green rubber strap – CHF 12,600 / EUR 13,289 / GBP 11,700 (all incl. VAT)

The Diver X Skeleton Ops

A fusion of the Diver and the Skeleton, this new edition of the Diver X Skeleton goes commando and reveals its movement front and back thanks to the incorporation of UN’s skeletonised automatic movement. Still measuring 44mm but with a slightly thicker profile of 15.7mm, the 200m water-resistant case also features Carbonium details on the unidirectional rotating bezel and inside the movement on the barrel cover at noon. However, to reduce some of the weight, the case and caseback are made of black DLC titanium with sandblasted and satin finishes.

The oversized double X traversing the openworked dial neatly frames the large oscillator and silicium escapement at 6 o’clock. Black hour indices, suspended on the flange, are treated with beige Super-LumiNova to match the black hands. Matching the camo colour scheme, the khaki fabric strap is partially made from upcycled fishing nets or a green rubber strap. It is attached to the wrist with a black ceramic and black PVD titanium deployant buckle.

On the reverse, other features of the UN-372 calibre are revealed. Its large X-shaped rotor has openworked areas to avoid interfering with the view of the movement. The automatic movement beats at 21,600vph and delivers a sturdy 72-hour power reserve.

Quick facts: 44mm x 15.7mm – Carbonium rotating bezel, black DLC titanium case and caseback, sandblasted – domed sapphire crystal over dial, open sapphire caseback – 200m water-resistance – openworked dial with X shape, barrel cover in Carbonium, black indices and hands with beige Super-LumiNova – skeletonised automatic manufacture calibre UN-372, 21,600vph, oscillator with silicium escapement, anchor and balance spring, 72h power reserve –green fabric strap partially made from upcycled fishing nets or green rubber strap with ceramic and titanium deployant buckle – CHF 26,100 / EUR 27,570 / GBP 24,230  (all incl. VAT)

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2 responses

  1. Ridiculous!
    These Military Gear for the Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & Diver X Skeleton OPS are two dam large! Besides, the majority of us are not engaging in special ops….what ever that means. It would be nice to see Ulysse Nardin return to making beautiful watches in 37-40mm range once again instead of monsters that no one, except Russian oligarchs can afford.


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