The Rising Creativity of China’s Independent Watchmakers

Despite Switzerland still being the epicentre of the industry, our love of watchmaking goes far beyond its borders. For years, we have been following the developments of other nations, virtually extending to all corners of the world. That always comes with the burden of stigmas, as changing one’s perception takes time and patience, and above all: a good product to begin with. And if there’s anything we’ve learnt by now, it is that China is rising exponentially.  Leaving behind the days of inferiority and blindly copying everything (badly), there are now several highly expressive brands emerging from the Middle Kingdom, all showcasing a mix of tradition, craftsmanship, creativity and technical know-how. And although there are far more examples to be found, here are five brands and watches that perfectly demonstrate that it’s time to dispel those stubborn preconceptions.

Qin Gan Pastorale II

One of our earliest independent Chinese watchmaking discoveries was Qin Gan. Back in 2022, we covered his work for the first time, followed by the Pastorale II launched in 2024. The Pastorale II is an absolute work of art, coming in at 38.5mm in diameter and 9.5mm in height. The silver or champagne-coloured dial has a champlevé enamel finish, with refined markings for the hours, minutes and seconds. Around the back, the calibre 1810 (based on the Longines 30L architecture) is mostly manufactured and finished in-house. Details include gold chatons, a new click spring, a balance wheel with adjustable weight screws and ample amounts of hand-finishing. Qin Gan only makes about 15 pieces per year, for USD 65,000 excl. VAT.

For more information, please visit QinGanWatch.com.

Fam Al-Hut Mobiüs

Fam Al Hut seemingly came out of nowhere just a year or two ago, with the highly unconventional Mark 1 Bi-Axis Tourbillon as its debut watch. The pill-shaped case was just half of the wow-factor, as the watch uses a bi-retrograde display for the time in the lower section, with a bi-axis tourbillon escapement under a domed sapphire crystal in the upper section. The strap integrates into the case, making for a very comfortable fit on the wrist, and a unique wearing experience. Since its release, the brand has developed it further, renamed it the Mobiüs (after its Mobiüs Strip-inspired tourbillon cage), won the GPHG Audacity Prize, and is slowly but surely expanding the work that’s being done in-house. At the moment, the starting price is around USD 55,000.

For more information, please visit FamAlHut.com.

Atelier Wen Perception V3

Atelier Wen’s Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron have long been advocates of Chinese craftsmanship, blending it with mechanical watchmaking since the brand debuted in 2018 with the Odyssey. Since then, things have moved fast for the Sino-French brand, with the Perception launching the brand on the main stage. Now in its third iteration, and despite changing from the Chinese-made Dandong automatic to the French-made Pequignet calibre EPM03, the Perception remains a highly captivating watch full of traditional Chinese details. The dial is made entirely by hand in the workshop of Cheng Yucai, China’s first master guillocheur. The scrolling, found on the perimeter of the dial as well as the movement, is another nod to Chinese culture. The Perception V3 retails for USD 4,850.

For more information, please visit AtelierWen.com.

Qian GuoBiao AB-05 Skylight

Qian GuoBiao has earned himself the nickname “the tourbillon doctor” for his restoration work on the fabled complication. Yet he also makes watches under his own name, largely by hand, showcasing a clear love for mechanics and theatre. Following his rather bold Split-Seconds Chronograph, his latest creation is the AB-05 Skylight, which exposes multiple key elements in a mechanical watch. The dial is cut open to reveal the keyless works, the balance wheel and escapement, part of the running gear and so on. The AB-05 calibre that gives the watch its partial name is made in-house, and features details such as a bird-shaped click spring, bevelled jewel sinks, a blued hairspring and so on. Prices start at EUR 32,000.

For more information, please visit QianGuoBiao.com.

Peacock Divine Craft Ultra-Thin Tourbillon

With a history of almost three-quarters of a century to look back on, Peacock is one of the older names in Chinese watchmaking and serves as one of the largest movement manufacturers in the country. With the Divine Craft Ultra-Thin Tourbillon, Peacock not only showed it can produce watches on a vast scale, but also with care and attention to craftsmanship. The dial is finished entirely by hand, with an artisan using a hammer and chisel to carve over 1,000 individual grooves into a blank. Proudly visible through the dial is a one-minute flying tourbillon escapement with a Gyromax balance. The finishing is also surprisingly good, especially considering the price of USD 4,899.

For more information, please visit PeacockWatches.com.