Last week we showed you Panerai’s new dress watch, the Luminor Due, and today we’re going to look at all the other novelties that were presented to us during the recent presentation in Amsterdam. First there’s an important update to the Luminor 1950 and there’s a new Luminor 1950 Carbotech. Let’s have a closer look of what we think of the update for the Luminor 1950, and how do we feel about the new Carbotech? However first we’ll give you an impression of the location for the presentation, which is well worth a visit whenever you are in Amsterdam.
The Panerai Event
The event location was the brand new (barely opened) Amsterdam Tower, a unique concept to work, eat, rave, and sleep. It is the brainchild of ID&T co-founder Duncan Stutterheim and architect Ben van Berkel. The tower will host a group of creative companies with a passion for music. There’s A’DAM & Co, a private members’ club, there’s Restaurant Moon, there’s Restaurant and Skybar Ma’dam and much more. Have a look at their website (click here) for more information.
Panerai decided that this would be the perfect location for launching a new generation of watches. And it was. Everything is so new that you initially think everything is still under construction. And while there were still a lot of activities going on, there wasn’t any construction work, but the soon to be opened Sir Adam Hotel, was being furnished. The empty parking garage was full of motivating slogans.
Panerai Luminor 1950 Update – same DNA, but thinner!
Besides the Luminor Due (can we call it Panerai’s first dress watch?) several other new models were shown, featuring an new movement. The new movement, calibre P.9010, enabled a reduction in case thickness to 13.2mm for the 42mm models and a reduction to 15.65mm for the 44mm models. Now that sounds like a small reduction, however while on the wrist you actually do notice it. And you will mainly notice it when you want to wear a proper Panerai with the ‘heft’ you expect from it, with your shirt and jacket. Chances are it will fit better under your cuff.
The new P.9010 movement is an updated version of the calibre P.9000 (which remains in the collection, at least for now) and the main difference is a reduced thickness (down from 7.9mm to 6.0mm), 3 more jewels (now 31), and 3 more components, now totaling at 200 individual components. It now features a balance bridge rather than a balance cock, as on the P.9000 calibre.
The new calibre P.6010 is equipped with a hacking second (the second stops as soon as the crown is pulled, and this allows for precise time setting), and you can adjust time with one-hour increments. The latter is very convenient when traveling through time zones, and on the first “pull” of the crown you can only adjust only the hour hand (both forward and backward), while the movement keep running and thus the timing isn’t compromised. The adjustment of the hour hand is linked to the date, which without compromising the timekeeping can be adjusted forward and backward, without compromising timekeeping. The 72 hour power reserve remains the same as with the P.9000 calibre.
The 42mm models, both old and the new 42mm models are water-resistant to 10 bar. That’s less than what we would expect from a sporty watch with proper diver’s watch roots. Although we would applaud a more “serious” water resistance, I do not expect most 42mm Luminor 1950 owners to submerge to “serious” depths. The 44mm versions can still be taken down to 300m and have an unchanged water resistance to 30 bar.
All new models have been ‘upgraded’ with more than only a new, thinner, movement, and a thinner case. The small seconds hand is now blue, and the indices, numerals and hands have been applied with beige luminescent material, for a bit of ‘patina’ touch. With the white dial versions especially it makes a whole of difference in our opinion. The older 42mm PAM00523 and the 44mm PAM00499, somehow didn’t appeal to us, while the new updated 42mm PAM01523 and the 44mm PAM01499 look much better with the beige luminescent material, especially on the beautifully matching light-brown calf leather strap.
The collection of the updated Luminor Marina 1950 3 days Automatic Acciaio includes five different models, all with the new Luminor 1950 case that is reduced in height, and with the new automatic calibre P.9010 movement ticking inside. What they did was simply adding a “1” to the reference number, and these updated versions are now the first with a four-digit reference number.
- 42mm – white dial – PAM00523 → PAM01523
- 42mm – black dial – PAM00392 → PAM01392
- 44mm – white dial – PAM00499 → PAM01499
- 44mm – black dial – PAM00312 → PAM01312
- 44mm – black dial – PAM00359 → PAM01359
Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 Carbotech 3-Days Automatic PAM00661
Next up… the Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 Carbotech 3-Days Automatic. This is a new Carbotech model for Panerai, and Carbotech is a material that Panerai has patented. It consists of layers of carbon fibre pressed together with a polymer called PEEK (Polyether Ether Ketone), resulting in an irregular matt black appearance that varies depending on how the material is cut. Therefore each individual watch shows a different pattern and will be unique.
The mechanical properties of Carbotech are much higher than those of other materials used in the world of watchmaking, such as ceramics and titanium: Carbotech is lighter and much more resistant to blows, as well as being hypoallergenic and non-corrosive. Panerai uses it for the case, the rotating bezel and the lever bridge which protects the winding crown. The watch is water-resistant to 300 meters / 30 bar.
Specifications of the Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3-Days Automatic Acciaio
- Case: stainless steel, 42mm or 44mm from left to right without the crown guard, 13.20mm in height (42mm) or 15.65mm (44mm), 10 ATM or 100 meters (42mm) or 30 ATM or 300 meters (44mm) water resistant, sapphire crystal on both sides, polished finishing, trade mark crown protecting device
- Dial: white or black dial, creme colour hour markers and hands, date window at 3 o’clock, small seconds hand at 9 o’clock in Panerai blue
- Movement: calibre P.9010, self-winding movement, 3 days power reserve, diameter 31,02 mm, 6.00 mm thick, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, seconds reset to zero, 200 components, Glucydur balance, incabloc anti-shock device, in-house developed and manufactured
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, hours hand can be adjusted forwards or backwards in one-hour increments without stopping timekeeping
- Strap and clasp: brown leather strap with contrasting ecru stitching, ardillon buckle in stainless steel
- Price: € 7,200 for the 42mm models, and € 7,300 for the 44mm models (official retail price including 21% VAT)
More information can be found at www.panerai.com