The Retro-Inspired Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph

Most watch enthusiasts probably know Vulcain for the so-called President watch, the alarm-equipped Cricket. Undoubtedly, the most important watch ever created by the brand born in 1858, there’s thankfully (for us collectors and the brand’s health) more than that in the brand’s historical and modern portfolio. Back in the 1960s, Vulcain had its fair share of dive watches, such as the Cricket Nautical or the more classic Skindiver Nautique. The latter was recently brought back to life as a time-only version, but a chronograph also existed back in the day alongside this traditional aquatic model. And it’s now back with the new Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph.

With the help of Guillaume Laidet, who also oversees Nivada Grenchen and has an undeniable attraction for vintage watches and a certain talent for discovering old rarities, Vulcain is bringing back a relatively unknown chronograph version of its 1960 Skindiver, a recreational dive watch with a 37mm and a fluted, thin rotating bezel. While we have seen the return of this watch recently, followed by various colorful takes on the same concept, it is now time for Vulcain to have a look at the more complex sister of this watch, equipped with a chronograph.

The idea with this new Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph is pretty traditional and proven: a visually faithful re-edition with a barely modified design, slightly enlarged proportions to accommodate a modern movement, and the use of contemporary materials. What we have here is a watch with a somewhat generic case – as was often the case during this era, with similarly shaped cases found across multiple brands – with a typical 1960s-style design, including semi-integrated squarish lugs. The watch is relatively compact for a 200m diving chronograph, measuring 39.7mm in diameter and 13mm in thickness.

The list of specifications, however, moves to modern standards with a domed sapphire crystal on top, a screwed caseback with an engraved diver, a screw-down crown and classic pump-pushers. The bezel, which was aluminium in the past, has been replaced by a black polished ceramic insert with complete 60-minute and 12-hour scales, and we’re talking about a bidirectional motion here.

The Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph is presented in two rather distinct versions. The first one, with its black dial, feels the most vintage-inspired and the most faithful to the original model, with orange accents on the scales and sub-dials, silver counters and vintage-toned luminous material on the hands and applied markers. The other version, with its silvery-white panda dial, has a more modern and technical touch, with crisp white luminous material. On both, the dial is surrounded by two scales: tachymeter and decimal (the latter divides the minute into 100 parts, allowing for the decimal conversion of time).

Under the hood, no surprises. The watch is powered by the tried-and-tested ETA Valjoux 7753 – the two-counter version of the venerable 7750 – in a no-date version. This automatic, cam-lever chronograph movement runs at 4Hz and stores about 42 hours of energy when fully wound.

Offered on a variety of leather straps, on a black tropic-like rubber strap, or on a vintage-inspired single-link brushed steel bracelet, the Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph is now available for pre-order on the brand’s website. It is priced at EUR 2,700 on a leather/rubber strap or EUR 2,980 on a steel bracelet. For more details, please consult vulcain.ch.