The Beautiful Blue Silk Dial of the Ressence Type 8 Indigo

Founded by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens in 2010, Ressence is renowned for its ingenious no-hands display of the time. Sleek, minimalist, futuristic watches with innovative mechanical solutions, Ressence tells the time with revolving sub-dials powered by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS). Like planets orbiting the Sun, the time indications circle the dial in constant motion. The latest edition might come as a surprise to fans of the brand with its handmade dial using Japanese indigo-dyed silk thread. As Ressence’s contribution to the Indigo Project (an initiative led by Tokyo retail partner Shellman), the independent brand has selected its Type 8 model for the indigo treatment.

Indigo dyeing, or aizome, has been practised for centuries in Japan following the introduction of the indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria) via the Silk Route in the 6^th century. Once the leaves have been harvested and fermented, the dye extracted produces the intense blues associated with a colour that is known as ‘Japan Blue’.

In 2022, Ressence introduced the Type 8, a lighter and simpler model retailing for about half the price of other references. Housed in a pod-like polished titanium case with a 42.9mm diameter and a thickness of 11mm, the Type 8, including the strap, weighs just 42 grams. With no numerals, the Type 8 has a regulator-style dial with minutes on the periphery and hours in the sub-dial with the brand’s hand logo. The domed central area of the dial rotates to indicate the minutes with the long hand while the sub-dial with the hours orbits the dial simultaneously. With no crown to maintain the smooth pebble-like case, the rotating caseback is used to wind and set the time. The two hands and the engraved hour and minute scales are treated with blue Super-LumiNova.

The Type 8 Indigo features a handmade métiers d’art dial created with indigo-dyed silk thread. Revealing an organic spiralling pattern that suggests the passage of time, the spectrum of blue tones ranges from electric blue to almost black. Swiss artisans involved in the project used 2.5 metres of Japanese indigo silk thread with a diameter of 0.20mm to create the hypnotising spiral pattern, each dial employing two days of work. The dial had to be carved out to accommodate the thread and to ensure a flush fit beneath the domed sapphire crystal.

The patented ROCS module is driven by the minute axle of a customised automatic ETA 2892/2 base calibre, delivering a 36-hour power reserve. A simple, robust movement but one with enough force and reliability to drive the complex display module. The Type 8 Indigo comes on a warm grey Saffiano calfskin strap with a titanium ardillon buckle. It is a limited edition of eight pieces and will be unveiled on 25 November 2024 at Shellman in the Isetan Shinjuku Watch Shop in Tokyo. The retail price is CHF 25,000 (excl. tax).

More information at ressencewatches.com.