Monochrome Watches
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The Patek Philippe 5320G Perpetual Calendar Flaunts a New Salmon Dial

A new and appealing salmon dial for Patek’s retro-inspired perpetual calendar with a contemporary automatic QP movement.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 3 min read |

Patek Philippe unveils its novelties for 2022 at Watches & Wonders, including this attractive salmon dial version of its Perpetual Calendar 5320G. The novelty is limited to the new dial colour, and the case and movement specifications remain identical to the 2017 model. Reference 5320 made its debut in 2017 in a white gold case with a cream-coloured lacquered dial and a strong vintage aura. Although it was not inspired by one specific vintage model, several key traits from Patek’s past references found their way on board. Patek’s first serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch of 1942, known as reference 1526, had its fair share of influence in the design of the 2017 model. In particular, the layout of the 1526, with its two rectangular windows at noon for the month and weekday and the sub-dial at 6 o’clock with the moon phases and date were recreated on the 2017 perpetual calendar. As Brice points out in his review, the Arabic numerals and blued syringe hands were inspired by a rare 1944 perpetual calendar in a steel case known as reference 1591.

The white gold case measures 40mm and has a height of 11.13mm and is stamped from a single block of white gold and then hand-finished to obtain the razor-sharp lines before being polished. The elegant stepped and tapered claw lugs and the stepped case construction are distinctive features of this perpetual calendar.

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The novelty for 2022 is the lovely new salmon dial colour, referred to as a “gilded opaline rose gold” dial by the brand. The calendar displays are arranged similarly to Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar watches since 1941. The day of the week and month are placed in horizontally aligned rectangular apertures at noon and have white backgrounds and black letters to contrast with the salmon dial. The moon phase indication at 6 o’clock is framed by numerals representing the date, and the two round apertures on either side are for the day/night indication and the leap year cycle.

The clean, symmetrical layout of the perpetual calendar and moon phase functions is consolidated by the Arabic numerals and syringe hands, inspired by the military-style reference 1591. The large and highly legible Arabic numerals have a darkened gold silhouette and are filled with luminescent material that emits a green glow in the dark, like the syringe-style hour and minute hands and the applied dot hour markers on the minutes/seconds precision railway track. Underscoring the retro appeal is a domed box-sapphire crystal protecting the dial. 

The latest 5320G perpetual calendar is powered by Patek’s automatic calibre 324 SQ, a perpetual calendar based on the brand’s legendary calibre 324. Fitted with Patek’s innovative Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring made of high-tech Silinvar, the automatic movement beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and has a maximum power reserve of 45 hours. Decorated to Patek Philippe Seal standards, the movement features chamfered and polished edges, Geneva stripes, perlage and is wound by a large 21k gold rotor engraved with Patek Philippe’s emblematic Calatrava Cross.

The 5320G perpetual calendar is presented on a shiny brown alligator leather strap with square scales and a white gold foldover clasp with a silhouette of the Calatrava Cross. The price is EUR 84,700.

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