Bucherer certainly has some impact on brands and is powerful enough to have them creating some purpose-designed watches, exclusive to its stores. These watches are named the “Bucherer Blue Editions” and many watch brands already participated (Tudor, IWC, Blancpain and more). All of them share a unique colour for the dial; blue. While H. Moser already participated in this concept, this time the brand decided to go in a different direction. Not only these 2 new “Moser x Bucherer Blue Editions” aren’t blue (at least for their dials) but Moser also introduces a brand new watch, totally different from the brand’s previous creations; the Heritage – a surprising retro-styled pilot’s watch.
The Moser Endeavour Diamonds Bucherer Blue Editions
Before we move to the watch that will mostly draw your attention, it is to be noted that H. Moser & Cie. has created another piece for Bucherer, a ladies-oriented version of the Endeavour, with a 38mm stainless steel case and diamonds on its bezel – the bezel is set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds for 1.13 carats. This watch is basically a toned-down version of the Endeavour Centre Seconds Automatic we reviewed here. It shares the same 3-hand display and the same self-winding movement, the in-house calibre HMC-200, however with a case that has been reduced by 2mm (38mm vs. 40mm). This is also the first time that this model is available in a more affordable material.
Compared to the standard version, a few novelties are to be noticed too, specifically for Bucherer. The dial, for instance, shows a signature “fumé” style, with a gradient grey colour. Even though named “Blue Editions”, for once Moser didn’t use this colour for the dial but on the other side of the watch. Indeed, both the oscillating weight, the balance and the balance bridge are coloured in blue – a colour that is also found on the interior side of the strap. Original.
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Diamonds Bucherer Blue Editions will be available only at Bucherer store and will retail for CHF 13,900.
The Moser Heritage Bucherer Blue Editions
Much more surprising is the second watch presented by Moser for Bucherer: meet the H. Moser & Cie. Heritage, an unprecedented vintage oriented, retro-styled, pilot-inspired watch with 1920s accents. It is new, it is steel, it is one of the most affordable Moser ever and it is Bucherer-only…
Reminiscent of Moser timepieces from the early-20th-century exhibited at the museum dedicated to Heinrich Moser, founder of H. Moser & Cie., this watch relies on classical codes found on military-pilots’ pieces: wired lugs, round case as a converted pocket watch, large Arabic numerals, railroad minute track and pilots’ hands largely filled with luminous paint – traditional codes that we’ve seen at other brands already but never before at Moser.
The case, made of stainless steel, measures 42mm in diameter and is polished. It features extended thin lugs (so-called wire-lugs, inspired by early wristwatches, mostly converted pocket watches on which such lugs were later added) and an onion-shaped crown. The dial shows stylized Arabic numerals and elongated hands (not really cathedral hands but still in the same vein) and is, just like the other Moser x Bucherer Blue Editions, made in a signature grey fumé style.
To be consistent with the Blue concept created by the Swiss retailer, this new H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Bucherer features several blue accents, again on the movement side. The automatic calibre HMC-200, manufactured in-house, is specific to this edition with the oscillating weight, the balance and the balance bridge coloured in blue. The rest of the movement is well-known: 3-day power reserve, 3Hz frequency, Straumann Hairspring and H-M-S display on the central axis. More on that movement in this review.
The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Bucherer Blue Editions is worn on a hand-stitched, caramel-coloured kudu leather strap with blue leather lining and steel pin-buckle. It will retail for CHF 11,900 (one of the most accessible Moser) and will be exclusively available at Bucherer stores. Question… Will this watch remain exclusive to Bucherer or will Moser launch other versions of this Heritage piece later this year, at the SIHH for instance? Time will tell. More details on www.h-moser.com.