It’s full steam ahead for H. Moser’s luxury sports Streamliner collection. Introduced in 2020, the fluid, sophisticated design of the Streamliner has hosted a Perpetual Calendar, a Tourbillon and its first model, a Flyback Chronograph with one of the best chronograph calibres designed by movement specialist Agenhor. Thanks to record growth and its increasing dominion of the independent scene, Moser has been busy developing retail spaces in Asia, the Middle East, America and China. The latest interpretation of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph celebrates the opening of Moser boutiques in Hong Kong and Shanghai and, for the first time in its three-year lifespan, appears in a luxurious red gold case on a rubber strap with a Matrix Green fumé dial.
The success of Moser’s luxury sports watch is that it does not fall into the trap of emulating the 1972 octagonal Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta – the indisputable leader of the pack and its countless copycats. What it does have, though, is a strong 1970s vibe with its rounded cushion-shaped case and fluid, integrated steel bracelet. With its screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock and minimalist dial, the only giveaway feature that reveals its chronograph function is the presence of the two elongated pushers located at 10 and 2 o’clock.
Red Gold and rubber
Marking the first time the Streamliner appears in a red gold case, the new boutique-only model incorporates the very subtle tweaks applied to the Flyback Chronograph earlier this year. Maintaining the same dimensions as other Streamliner Flyback Chronograph models – 42.3mm diameter x 14.2mm height –the radially brushed bezel contrasts with the brightly polished pushers and the crown at 4 o’clock. The recessed casebands, highlighted with polished bevels, add a sporty touch that is underscored by the 120m water-resistant case. It is classified as “dynamic water resistance” ‘since the flyback function can be activated underwater.
Moser is renowned for its seductive fumé dials, and the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph comes with a Matrix Green sunburst fumé dial that is lighter in the centre and darkens as it reaches the tachymeter scale on the flange. In keeping with Moser’s minimalist design tenets, the Streamliner relays the elapsed times of the chronograph on two scales, meaning there are no sub-dials. The red and white outer track on the dial measures the seconds, while the inner track counts the elapsed minutes, indicated by the needle-thin hands. A nod to stopwatches of the 1960s and 1970s there is an applied numeral 60 at noon, and the chronograph hands echo those found on car dashboards or measuring instruments. The hour and minute hands are gilded to match the case colour, slightly curved and have Globolight inserts, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova.
The main difference between this model and pre-2023 models is the secret signature made using transparent lacquer. A bit like Breguet’s secret signature, you have to look quite closely at the dial to perceive the brand name that appears below the numeral 60.
The reverse side offers a view of the impressively complex 434-part calibre HMC 907 – aka AgenGraphe -developed by movement maker Agenhor, now one of H. Moser’s partner companies (MELB Group). This automatic column-wheel chronograph has an innovative horizontal friction wheel, and the power reserve has been increased to 72 hours. You can read all about this technical achievement in Xavier’s in-depth coverage. The movement is decorated with Moser stripes angled at 45°and anthracite rhodium-plating on the bridges and mainplate. To ensure a view of the chronograph and column wheel in action, the rotor has been placed between the movement and the dial.
Availability & Price
Considering that Moser designed the Streamliner from the bracelet on up, it’s a bold move to relinquish the slinky bracelet. However, the textured rubber strap is integrated into the case, consolidated with titanium inserts and comes with a red gold triple-folding clasp. The rubber strap also distinguishes the watch as a special edition, available exclusively in Moser boutiques and its online platform. The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph in red gold retails for CHF 60,000 (incl. tax).
For more information, please consult H-moser.com.