A surprising collaboration between a high-end watch brand and a hip Los Angeles streetwear brand suggests that H. Moser & Cie. is gaining a foothold among younger, more fashion-conscious buyers. The 76-piece limited edition Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a collaboration with the Californian brand Undefeated and, for the first time since its launch in 2020, the streamlined case and bracelet are covered with an anthracite-grey DLC coating. Another novelty for the Streamliner is the Black Tiger Camo motif engraved on the dial, a military pattern used across the board at Undefeated on sweatshirts, sneakers, jackets, et al.
Undefeated is a premium sneakers and streetwear boutique located on trendy La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles with 28 boutiques worldwide. Undefeated was founded in 2002 by James Bond and Eddie Cruz and collaborates with artists and brands to create limited-edition products inspired by sports, art, music and street culture. The idea for the collaboration came from Eric Cheng, a co-owner of Undefeated and a fan of H. Moser watches. According to Cheng, H. Moser & Cie. “is a sort of Undefeated of the watch industry. Two of its strengths are that it is bold and ahead of its time.”
Moser took the plunge in January 2020 and entered the highly contested luxury sports watch pool with its Streamliner. The name of this collection is taken from the Streamliner Moderne period (1920s -1930s) that followed directly on the heels of Art Deco. Described as Art Deco on the move, the Streamliner movement celebrated the modern machine age and the newfound passion for speed with sleek, aerodynamic designs found on trains, ocean liners, aeroplanes, cars and even diners.
The trump card of the Streamliner was that it did not fall into the trap of emulating the 1972 octagonal Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta – the indisputable leader of the pack and its countless copycats. What it does have, though, is a strong 1970s vibe with its rounded cushion-shaped case and fluid, integrated steel bracelet. With its screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock and minimalist dial, the only giveaway feature that reveals its chronograph function is the presence of the two elongated pushers located at 10 and 2 o’clock. Originally presented with a grey dial followed by a signature Funky Blue dial, this third model is the darkest and most intrepid of the three.
Maintaining the same dimensions as other Streamliner Flyback Chronograph models – 42.3mm diameter x 14.2mm height – the collaboration watch is entirely sheathed in a grey DLC coating with vertical brushed surfaces giving the watch a low-key, stealth appeal. The recessed casebands, highlighted with polished bevels, add a sporty touch that is underscored by the 120m water-resistance of the case. It is, in fact, classified as dynamic water-resistance since the chronograph can be activated underwater.
The minimalism favoured on Moser’s dials made its way to the Streamliner, which relays the elapsed times of the chronograph on two peripheral scales. The calibre HMC 902 powering the watch is a flyback iteration of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht’s impressive automatic Agengraphe, a revolutionary chronograph movement that is fully explained in Xavier’s coverage here. Despite the complexity of the movement – which took home the GPHG 2020 chronograph prize – the Agengraphe was built around simplicity and legibility for the user.
Undefeated’s signature Black Tiger Camo motif is engraved on the dial in tones of grey with stripes decorated with crisscrossing lines in different directions to simulate military camouflage. Given Moser’s penchant for fumé dials, the engraved motif is treated to several coats of dark lacquer to obtain the brand’s hallmark gradient effect. The grey outer track measures the seconds, while the grey inner track counts the minutes – probably not as easy to consult as other Streamliners with their bolder scales and touches of colour. Unlike previous models, there are three applied numerals at 3, 6 and 9, and the customary ’60’ numeral at noon has been replaced with a black rhodium-plated Undefeated logo. With a thicker base and a sharp tip, the hands for measuring elapsed times recall those found on dashboard instruments of cars, while the hour and minute hands feature anthracite-grey Globolight inserts, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova.
As mentioned above, the Agengraph central chronograph movement was developed by Agenhor and used by Fabergé and Singer Reimagined before a third version was developed for Moser to become the first-ever central chronograph with a flyback function. Marking a complete re-engineering of the chronograph, the Agengraph redefined fundamental principles that have remained unchanged for decades. Driven by a column wheel and equipped with a cam that stores energy for a minute before releasing it with utmost precision to generate an instant jump of the hand, the two barrels can store up to 54 hours of power reserve. One of the specificities of this automatic movement is that the tungsten rotor is positioned between the movement and the dial, ensuring an uncluttered view through the caseback on this intricate 434-part movement. As you would expect, the finishing is top-notch.
Availability and Price
The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Undefeated is a limited edition of 76 pieces and will be available from 22 June from Undefeated.com and Moser’s e-commerce platform. In addition to the watches, the two brands have created a capsule collection, including an H. Moser & Cie. wall clock and friends & family jacket and ammo box developed exclusively by Undefeated. The price of the Streamliner Chronograph Undefeated is CHF 50,000.
For more details, please visit www.h-moser.com.