The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif

Back in 2023, F.P. Journe introduced an intriguing unique piece for Only Watch, a new take on the elegant sports watch with integrated bracelet, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu. As we know, a quick look at the past unique watches made by F.P. Journe for the Only Watch charity auction reveal a common pattern… All are actually teased future models. And the latest one didn’t change the rule. Despite saying that his next big launched would be in 2027, the watch is now becoming a reality, as the brand introduces the Chronomètre Furtif, a new stately integrated sports watch that joins the lineSport Collection. 

What’s important here is that F.P. Journe finally releases a time-only (almost) watch in its lineSport Collection, which only comprised models with complications until now – Centigraph, Rattrapante or Automatic Reserve. The new watch comes now with a classic 3-hand display, making it the new offering of the brand to compete in the luxury sports watch category. The new Chronomètre Furtif is taking most of the design cues and mechanical architecture of the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, yet brings new materials and different colors.

This unique piece featured a case and bracelet in tantalum, combined with a blue dial in enamel. The final version of the Chronomètre Furtif brings the concept of stealth to the max, with a a 42mm case and bracelet made from Tungsten Carbide, and paired with tantalum contrasted elements. An extremely hard material (approximately 1350 Vickers and 9 on the Mohs scale, which is close to the hardness of corundums such as sapphire), it is obtained by combining carbon and tungsten at high temperatures. Tungsten Carbide is double the density of steel, and almost as dense as gold.

The case and bezel are sandblasted, resulting a matte black look, while the caseback, bumper, bezel ring and crown are done in polished tantalum, bringing a dark grey contrast to the otherwise all-black watch. The Chronomètre Furtif is relatively thin at 9.50mm and falls right into the design codes of the lineSport models, with a semi-barrel-shaped case with integrated lugs. The case is made in-house at Les Boîtiers de Genève. No mention of the water-resistance is made.

Somehow blending and contrasting at the same time, the Chronomètre Furtif relies on a mirror-polished anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel on white Gold dial, designed in the same spirit as the one adorning the Blue unique piece. Also done in-house by Les Cadraniers de Genève, it boasts discreet numerals and tracks which are done by laser engraving with a matte finish, making the numerals visible but only at a certain angle – once again, to meet the furtif name of the watch. Matte rhodium-plated steel hour and minute hands, and a white color steel seconds hand, indicate the time in a way that almost feel like they melt into its anthracite grey enamel surface.

An important element of such an elegant sports watch, the Chronomètre Furtif comes on an integrated bracelet that’s equally made of sandblasted Tungsten Carbide, yet with polished chamfers on the side. It is closed by a folding clasp in titanium with polished tantalum cap.

Finally, there’s the movement… The same as found in the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, the new calibre 1522. This hand-wound movement (a surprising choice for a watch in this category, but the result is visually spectacular), with plates and bridges done in 18k rose gold, features the classic two-barrel architecture of the Chronomètre Souverain; however, the right side shows a new construction for the regulating organ. First, the balance is held under a more stable transversal bridge while it is connected to a direct central seconds. This new movement boasts a comfortable power reserve of 56h and features a free sprung balance wheel beating at 21,600 vibrations/hour.

The gold bridges with Geneva stripes and polished chamfers contrast with the guilloché main-plate. As you’d expect the finishing appears to be of a high level and the way the bridges have been designed result in a movement that is particularly appealing to look. Importantly, in order to retain the simplicity of the display, two additional complications – a moon phase and a power reserve – have been added on the back side of the movement – just like in the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu.

The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is released as part of the permanent collection. Its price will be CHF 85,000 (without taxes). For more details, please visit www.fpjourne.com.