The New Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu

The latest watch in the very appealing Hermès Cut collection is more than just a jump from 36mm to 39mm, as it adds the ability to “suspend time” (Le Temps Suspendu) with a complication first seen in the 2011 Arceau collection. At the press of a button, the hour and minute hands move into a V shape surrounding the 12 o’clock numeral, removing the distraction of time. A second press restores them to the present time, kind of like the old 1970s LED digital watches that only displayed time at the press of a button (but now with the option of always-on analogue time). It’s a novel and perhaps polarizing evolution of last year’s Cut collection debut, but undoubtedly a watch that couldn’t be more Hermès.

The 39mm case is limited to 750 5N rose gold with no steel option, and the crown is again between 1 and 2 o’clock. The mid-case also has a more tonneau shape for an interesting contrast of forms that Hermès calls a circle within a round shape. The brushed pattern of the case sides is interrupted by long polished sections, and a triangular button to suspend time sits at 8 o’clock. The bezel is smooth; the opaline silver-toned dial variant can also be ordered with 60 diamonds set in the bezel. An anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal protects the dial, there’s a sapphire exhibition caseback and water resistance is rated at 100 metres.

The two-link rose gold bracelet with polished centre links has an integrated vibe and nice butterfly clasp and comes with a quick interchangeable system. A rubber strap is also included, with several colours as an option – the beige version presented here is surely a great match with the case and dial colours.

There are two dial colours – the aforementioned opaline silver tone and a limited sunburst red – making three versions in total with two smooth bezels (red and opaline dial) and one with set diamonds (opaline dial). Applied Arabic numerals filled with Super-LumiNova circle the dial with the exception of 4 o’clock, which has a recessed small seconds sub-dial. A minutes track with gold dots every five minutes runs inside, and an expanding recessed channel from the dial’s centre to 12 o’clock indicates where the partially openworked baton-style hands fall when the time-suspending button is pressed. The small seconds run in reverse in a 24-second (retrograde) sweep to add to the unique character of the piece, effectively functioning as a running indicator.

The new in-house Hermès H1912 calibre powers the watch with a “Temps Suspendu” module, allowing for the unique complication, which was developed and patented by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor. The movement itself has 175 components, while the module adds 133 components. The calibre beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) and comes with a 45-hour power reserve. Functions include 360-degree retrograde central hours and minutes, reverse 24 seconds in a small seconds sub-dial (a running indicator) and time suspension. Decorations include a circular-grained and snailed mainplate, while the module has circular graining and Côtes de Genève.

Pricing and availability are currently to be confirmed (the red dial is a so-called “one-shot” batch not to be reproduced), but this Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu is certainly an interesting evolution of the collection. For more information, please visit hermes.com.