Monochrome Watches
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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon and Centre Seconds with Red Gold/DLC Case and Blue Fumé Dial

Moser's all-terrain collection is enlarged with new gold and blue models, for the automatic and tourbillon models.

| By Brice Goulard | 3 min read |

H. Moser & Cie. is in a highly productive mode these days releasing a steady stream of new models – or declinations of existing watches. Think, in recent months, Blue Lagoon pieces, Heritage made with Bucherer, Perpetual Moon Concept or Pioneer Tourbillon. The latter is actually today’s topic. During Watches and Wonders in Miami, the brand introduced new versions of its all-terrain watch – not a sports watch per se, but a watch made to survive an active lifestyle. Meet the new H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon and Centre Seconds with a Red Gold/DLC Case and a signature Blue Fumé Dial.

What is the Pioneer? It’s H. Moser & Cie’s vision of a more robust, more sturdy, slightly casual piece. Don’t think it’s a true sports watch either, even though the case is well protected and comes with 120m water-resistance. The Pioneer is a casual watch that still retains all the attributes of Moser’s DNA. It just adds a cool, not too formal touch to the usual signature fumé dials, but the mechanics, developed and assembled in-house, are still part of the package too. A mix of beautiful mechanics and resilience for daily wear and tear. And you can even have it with a tourbillon

Already available in three versions – 3-hand automatic, perpetual calendar and tourbillon automatic – with different materials (mostly steel) and colours (fumé in grey, in green or in blue), the brand introduced new versions in Miami this weekend that combine luxurious metal and beautiful coloured dials.

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Available in the automatic and in the tourbillon, these new versions feature a new case. It is made from a combination of 5N red gold and black DLC-finished titanium – the central part of the case is titanium and the two lateral parts and the bezel are made of gold (a combination that can be appreciated when looking at the lugs and the caseback). The case is still water-resistant to 120m and these models are worn on perforated black rubber straps with a 5N red gold pin buckle (Center Seconds) or a folding clasp (Tourbillon). The crown is also DLC coated. Both watches have a rather large 42.8mm diameter, which remains comfortable thanks to short lugs.

Second update: the dials. To contrast with the warm colour of the 5N gold, H. Moser relies on its most emblematic dial, the fumé blue. These dials are decorated first with a sunburst pattern and later painted with a gradient colour – midnight blue in the centre and almost black on the periphery. Indexes and hands match the gold case but are still filled with luminous paint.

Two models have been presented. The first one is the “simple” automatic version, with a 3-hand (central hours, minutes and seconds) display. This Pioneer Centre Seconds is powered by the in-house self-winding HMC 200 movement, with 3 days of power reserve. It is fitted with the Straumann Hairspring and the brand’s interchangeable regulating organ. The finishing is pleasant, with Moser stripes and polished bevels.

The second model is the Pioneer Tourbillon – a watch that we’ve reviewed recently. This watch is a surprising combination of sporty elements and Haute Horlogerie allowing for a tourbillon to be worn on a daily basis. The in-house movement, calibre HMC 804, is an evolution of the 3-hander seen above. It is automatic, has a 3-day power reserve and the original double-hairspring architecture and the brand’s interchangeable regulating organ. The decoration is even more delicate and includes an 18k red gold oscillating weight.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon and Centre Seconds with Red Gold/DLC Case and Blue Fumé Dial are now available and will be priced respectively at USD 59,900 and USD 19,900. More details at

2 responses

  1. I like older Moser models. Drop the weird dial colours and the ugly strap now.

  2. DLC is Diamond-like Carbon for anyone else expecting DownLoadable Content.

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