The Appetising H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon

From its refined case constructions and intelligent movements to its seductive fumé dials and dashing minimalism, H. Moser & Cie. knows how to captivate the senses. Another in-house speciality is Moser’s skill in simplifying complex displays, a feat revealed with its first perpetual calendar complication in 2005. A triumph of simplicity, elegance and user-friendliness, Moser’s perpetual calendar belies the machinations of its complex hand-wound movement. For the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, Moser treats its white gold Endeavour Perpetual Calendar to an appetising smoked salmon dial.

Over the years, Moser’s perpetual calendar complication has appeared in all the brand’s collections, from the Endeavour (and the hyper-minimalist Endeavour Concept) to the Pioneer, Heritage, and Streamliner. The novelty of the 2025 Endeavour model can be attributed to its dial, a tasty smoked salmon colour that debuted on board the Streamliner Centre Seconds in 2023 and again on the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept watch.

Trust Moser to enjoy a play on words when selecting the name for the colour of the dial. Known as saumon fumé in French, the name kills two birds with one stone by referencing the tone and the technique used to create the gradient (fumé) dial. Like the salmon Streamliners, the dial is decorated with a vertical brushed finish (griffé), a technique that constantly alters the tonalities of the dial.

Ranging from warm amber to chocolate and copper, the dial hosts the essential displays of a perpetual calendar with characteristic Moser minimalism. The central leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are accompanied by a small pointer to indicate the month. The snailed and lacquered small seconds counter is situated at 6 o’clock. A big date window at 3 o’clock (changing instantly at midnight), a discreet power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, and applied indices with a 5N red gold finish complete the dial. As a function that doesn’t need daily consultations, the leap year indicator is featured on the caseback.

The three-part 42mm white gold case, with a height of 13.1mm, is beautifully finished with alternating polished and brushed surfaces. Like all the cases in the high-end Endeavour family, the caseback and lugs are curved to improve ergonomics.

Also remarkable from a technical point of view, the hand-wound HMC 800 calibre allows the watch to be set at any time of day or night using the crown. Powerful to an extreme, the double-barrel configuration stores energy for a minimum of seven days. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the hand-finished components are decorated in haute horlogerie style, and the pallet fork and escapement wheel are made of gold.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is paired with a dark brown alligator strap and 18k white gold pin buckle. It retails for CHF 54,000 (excl. tax). More information at h-moser.com.