At Baselworld 2019, Doxa arrived with its hands full of novelties, which included totally opposing models. One was the outrageously expensive ($70K) and limited Sub 200 T.Graph Anniversary Edition, a solid gold chronograph. The second was a small and accessible dive watch, with a cool vintage-inspired design, the Sub 200 130th Anniversary – immediately sold out as it was limited to just 130 pieces. But it was, in fact, just an appetiser for what’s coming now, the new Doxa Sub 200 Collection. Colourful, accessible, cool-looking…
With its two models of Baselworld 2019, Doxa managed to make some noise… But not for the same reasons. The gold Sub 200 T.Graph certainly generated discussions because its price tag had nothing in common with the rest of the brand’s production – and honestly, it was more expensive than most of the high-end watches presented at BW2019. The second model, on the other hand, was a topic of discussion for the right reasons: a nicely executed, well-designed and fairly priced dive watch, but restricted to a very limited number of watches. The good news is that this watch was the precursor of a regular collection that is similar to the limited edition, but now in a wide array of colours – all typically Doxa.
The new Doxa Sub 200 is a simple, no-nonsense dive watch with classic specs and a slightly vintage-oriented design. The case, with its twisted lugs and polished bevel, measures 42mm in diameter and 14mm in height – modern proportions. It features a domed sapphire crystal, a screw-down steel caseback and a screw-in crown, for a decent 200m water-resistance.
The Doxa Sub 200 also plays on old-school vibes with a coin-edge unidirectional bezel, featuring a glossy 60-minute insert on which the numerals and markers are filled with luminescent material. Inside the case, the same no-nonsense concept has been applied, with a Swiss automatic ETA 2824-2. Nothing spectacular, but a good and reliable movement – especially considering the price.
What is new on this regular Doxa Sub 200 collection is that the brand launches not one or two references, but 12 references, with six different colours – all signature colours of the old Doxa catalogue. This means Professional Orange (the iconic Doxa colour), Searambler Silver, Sharkhunter Black, Aquamarine Turquoise, Divingstar Yellow and Caribbean Navy. The dial features Doxa baton hands, applied indexes and a framed date window at 3 o’clock.
Last but not least, the new Doxa Sub 200 collection is available either on stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelets with folding claps or on an FKM rubber strap with a steel pin buckle, matching the dial.
Price and availability
The Doxa Sub 200 collection is now available (December 2019) from doxawatches.com. Prices start at EUR 950 on a rubber strap and EUR 990 on a steel bracelet. A fair price considering the quality of the case/dial, the bracelet, the movement and the brand’s heritage. And it looks cool!