Dive watches are one of the most popular categories in the watch world and, without surprises, Baselworld wrapped up with plenty of new models to sate aficionados… If these comply with strict standards, you do not need to be a diver to love these utilitarian tools. They make great daily wearers on dry land too. Here are the 10 best dive watches that caught our eye at Baselworld 2019.
Note: this selection, ordered from low to high prices, is based on a consensus among the MONOCHROME team. It reflects our preferences among the watches unveiled at Baselworld 2019. If you want to add some watches to this selection, feel free to share them in the comment section at the end of this article.
Delma Blue Shark III 4000m
At Baselworld 2019, Delma released a new version of its deep diver, the Blue Shark. The model incorporates several updates, including water-resistance beefed up from 3,000m to 4,000m. The 47mm steel case features a 120-click unidirectional bezel, a screw-down crown, and a helium relief valve. Inside is the tried-and-tested automatic ETA-2824. The Delma Blue Shark III 4000m was launched with different dial options, as a limited edition of 500 pieces with a steel bezel, and 500 pieces with a DLC-coated steel bezel. Price for this rugged diving instrument starts at CHF 1,990.
Quick facts: 47mm steel case – water-resistant to 4,000m – automatic calibre ETA 2824 with hours, minutes, seconds and date- steel bracelet and rubber strap with folding clasp – CHF 1,990 with steel or CHF 2,090 with DLC bezel. For more information, visit www.delma.ch
Oris Aquis Date GMT
One of the brand’s flagship models, the Oris Aquis is now equipped with a dual-time function. The 43.5mm steel case is water-resistant to 300m. Its rotating bezel features a ceramic insert, which replaces the 60-minute scale with a 24-hour track. The automatic calibre Oris 798 (based on a Sellita SW330-1) displays the hours, minutes, seconds, the date and a second time zone on 24 hours. It is available with a large choice of straps or with a steel bracelet, all fitted with an extension system for wearing over a wetsuit.
Quick facts: 43.5mm steel case – water-resistant to 300m – automatic calibre Oris 798 with hours, minutes, seconds, date and GMT- leather strap, rubber strap or steel bracelet, all with folding clasp – CHF 2,600. For more information, visit www.oris.ch
Tudor Black Bay Bronze Grey Dial
A winning combination of a bronze case with a gradient grey dial, this new iteration of the iconic Black Bay is 43mm in diameter and water-resistant to 300m. Inside is Tudor’s manufacture movement MT5601 with a power reserve of 70 hours, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and official COSC chronometer certification. It comes with both an aged nubuck leather strap and a grey fabric strap. Possibly the best-looking edition so far of this beautiful bronzo, with more contrast than the inaugural brown dial version.
Quick facts: 43mm bronze-aluminium alloy case – water-resistant to 200m – automatic calibre MT5601 with hours, minutes and seconds – leather and fabric strap – CHF 3,850. For more information, visit www.tudorwatch.com
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte
The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 dive watch collection expands with a handsome ceramic version (as well as a cool green-dial Bronze version). The new Diver Black Matte stands out with its distinctive square case, which is now wrapped in full stealth attire, yet resilient and light on the wrist. It is water-resistant to 300m and meets with the ISO 6425 standards. Its automatic calibre BR-CAL 302 (Sellita base) displays the hours, minutes, seconds and date. The woven black rubber strap is secured with a PVD-coated steel pin buckle.
Quick facts: 42mm x 42mm black matte ceramic case – water-resistant to 300m – automatic calibre BR-CAL 302 with hours, minutes, seconds and date- rubber strap with pin buckle and additional black fabric strap – CHF 4,100. For more information, visit www.bellross.com
Inspired by the pressure gauge of the first tool divers, the Reservoir Hydrosphère is an unusual take on the dive watch with a unique time display featuring jumping hours and retrograde minutes. At first, it’s a bit puzzling but it makes for an unusual, cool-looking piece among the more classical dive watches. The central seconds rotating indicator has no other utility than to check that the watch is running. The original power reserve on the lower part of the watch befits the model’s inspiration. The 45mm steel case is water-resistant to 300m. It also comes with a unidirectional bezel to keep track of dive times and a helium relief valve.
Quick facts: 45mm steel case – water-resistant to 300m – automatic movement with jumping hours, retrograde minutes, seconds and power reserve indication- steel bracelet and rubber strap – EUR 4,250. For more information, visit www.reservoir-watch.com
Seiko LX Diver Black SNR031J1
The 1970s Diver’s Recreation Limited Edition SLA033 that we included in our best watches of Baselworld 2019 was not the only noteworthy dive watch presented by Seiko during the fair – there was, in fact, a good selection of dive watches. The new Prospex LX Line, all equipped with Spring Drive movements, is articulated around three models for sport on land, in the sea and in the sky. The Sea/Diver version of this 44.8mm watch features a unidirectional dive bezel and its water-resistance is of 300m. The case has the typical Seiko Prospex design, yet modernized and with great attention to details. Our favourite is the black version (SNR031J1) in titanium with a stealthy super-hard coating and a silicone strap.
Quick facts: 44.8mm titanium case with black super-hard coating – water-resistant to 300m – automatic Spring Drive calibre 5R65 with hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve indication- silicon strap – EUR 6,100. For more information, visit www.seikowatches.com
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Scubatec Black Manta
The Patravi Scubatec Black Manta is Carl F. Bucherer’s second special edition to support the Manta Trust, a UK-based charity with the mission of conserving the oceans and the habitat of manta rays. It uses the same 44.6mm and COSC-certified automatic movement as the 2017 edition. The dark, ultra-light DLC-coated titanium case is water-resistant to 500m. It features a screw-down crown and a helium-relief valve. The grooved dial depicts the silhouette of manta rays in a bronze colour. In keeping with the conservation theme, the black textile strap is composed mostly of recycled PET. And besides the good cause, it is also a great looking dive watch.
Quick facts: 44.6mm DLC-coated titanium case – water-resistant to 500m – automatic calibre CFB 1950.1 with hours, minutes, seconds and date – COSC-certified -rubber strap with recycled PET layer – folding clasp – CHF 6,900. For more information, visit www.carl-f-bucherer.com
Rolex Sea-Dweller Rolesor ref. 126603
This new Rolesor Sea Dweller was somewhat unexpected. If the diving specs of the Sea-Dweller remain the same, its steel and gold case and bracelet somehow feel out of place on such a tool-ish dive watch – but it is undeniably very cool-looking and superb watch, manufactured to the stringent standards of Rolex. The 43mm case is waterproof to a depth of 1,220m and it features a helium relief valve, a Cerachrom bezel, and the cyclops lens. The automatic calibre 3235 powering the Sea-Dweller is a Rolex Superlative Chronometer with a +/-2 seconds precision per day. Is it relevant? Not really, but honestly, who really dives with such a luxury watch in the first place? (Take a look at our opinion article here.)
Quick facts: 43mm steel and yellow gold case – water-resistant to 1220m – automatic calibre 3235 with hours, minutes, seconds and date- steel and yellow gold bracelet – CHF 15,300. For more information, visit www.rolex.com
Angelus U51 Diver Tourbillon
With its openwork tourbillon movement, the Angelus U51 Diver Tourbillon 5-day power reserve is most definitely not the archetypal rugged, functional dive watch. And although many of us wouldn’t dare plunge it 300 metres underwater, it can easily withstand such pressure… What remains is an unusual mix of a sports watch and Haute Horlogerie. The 45mm titanium case features two crowns, one for the movement and one to rotate the high-contrast inner flange. On the opposite side, the U51 Diver Tourbillon features a helium relief valve. Ready to dive with a tourbillon?… Sign us up!
Quick facts: 45mm titanium case – water-resistant to 300m – hand-wound movement with hours, minutes, seconds and flying tourbillon- rubber strap with folding buckle – limited edition of 25 pieces – CHF 32,800. For more information, visit www.angelus-watches.com
Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph 18K Gold 130 Anniversary Edition
Doxa has reinterpreted a beloved, iconic dive watch, the Sub 200 T.Graph in… 18k gold. As a matter of fact, the brand is still celebrating its 130th anniversary and the 50th anniversary of this iconic model. This exclusive 13-piece anniversary gold version is equipped with the original Valjoux 7734 chronograph movement. The signature Doxa bright orange dial is paired with a matching rubber strap, but this surprising watch can also be delivered on a full gold “bead of rice” bracelet. And if you love those late 1960s Doxa quirky designs but feel that gold is not the appropriate metal for a dive watch, the brand also released a cool steel re-edition of the Sub 200.
Quick facts: 43mm yellow gold case – water-resistant to 200m – hand-wound calibre Valjoux 7734 with hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and date- rubber strap with pin buckle or full 18k gold bracelet – CHF 43,900 on rubber strap or CHF 69,800 on bracelet – limited edition of 13 pieces. For more information, visit www.doxa.ch