Buying Guide

Dive Watches With a Green Bezel, Because the One You Want Is Unobtainable

When you want the Cermit, but don't even make it to the waiting list...

calendar | ic_dehaze_black_24px By Frank Geelen | ic_query_builder_black_24px 7 min read |

You’ve set your mind on that dive watch with a green bezel. It looks good. No, it looks great… And despite having spent a small fortune at your local retailer over the years, you got a cold “no” when you asked for that watch. Whether it’s called Kermit, Cermit or like some say, the Starbucks Sub, it doesn’t matter because you’re not even allowed to put your name on the waiting list. And paying double the retail price isn’t an option. After having seen the disappointment of too many of our readers, we thought it would be an idea to list dive watches with a green bezel that you actually can buy. We go all across the board, from high-end Indie to pretty pleasantly priced value propositions: we’ve found something for everyone! 

Note: this list is, of course, not exhaustive. Feel free to add the dive watches with green bezel you personally like in the comment box at the end.

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze Green

We start this list with something original. Yes, a square dive watch is unusual. But this is what Bell & Ross managed to do with a watch that combines both the requirements of a true diver’s watch (ISO 6425 certified) with the iconic design of the brand, the circle within a square. Available in multiple iterations, the brand has a striking green model to offer combined with a bronze case – a classic colour combination with this alloy. The watch has personality and robustness, is powered by a reliable automatic Sellita movement and is built to last.

Quick facts: 42mm x 42mm bronze case – sapphire crystal – green rotating bezel and dial – 300m water-resistant – calibre BR-CAL.302, automatic Sellita SW-300 – khaki calfskin leather and black rubber straps included – limited edition of 999 pieces – EUR 3,900

Citizen ProMaster Marine NY0071-81EE

Citizen shouldn’t be overlooked: this Japanese brand manufactures incredibly robust watches at reasonable prices. Take, for instance, this ProMaster Marine NY0071-81EE, with its SuperTitanium case and bracelet and automatic calibre 8203… Not only is the built quality very good, but the watch meets with ISO 6425 dive watch standards. The case is solid and light, the black dial is highly contrasted and features a day-date complication, and it is available in this attractive edition with a green aluminium insert on the bezel. At EUR 450, this is a great alternative if you like the look of the Cermit watch but can’t afford one.

Quick facts: 44mm SuperTitanium case – mineral crystal – black dial and green rotating bezel – 200m water-resistant – automatic calibre 8203 – SuperTitanium bracelet with folding clasp – EUR 450

Longines HydroConquest Green

Renowned for its highly attractive Heritage watches, Longines also has a nicely designed and performing diver’s watch in its portfolio: the HydroConquest. Well manufactured and designed and featuring all the elements of a proper diving instrument, it makes for a great entry-level model in the world of luxury divers. Inside the case is a modern automatic movement with an upgraded power reserve (64 hours) and an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring. For 2020, Longines adds a green bezel and dial edition to this collection, available either on a stainless steel bracelet or a green rubber strap, like the model presented here. And best of all, it is offered in 41mm and 43mm diameters.

Quick facts: 41mm or 43mm stainless steel case – sapphire crystal – green rotating bezel and dial – 300m water-resistant – calibre L888 automatic – green rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet, both on folding clasp – EUR 1,490 for all models

MB&F HM7 Aquapod Green Bezel

MBandF HM7 Aquapod Ti Green

Now, this is something truly unusual and very high-end indeed. The Aquapod, or Horological Machine 7, is MB&F’s vision of an aquatic watch. Certainly, with its central flying tourbillon and the spherical construction of its ultra-domed case, it might not be the best performing watch underwater. However, this watchmaking marvel can easily take a bit of action and water.  Available with a blue, red or black bezel, this rather provocative piece has also been presented with a green sapphire bezel – which is clearly an ironic reference to that unobtainable green watch.

Quick facts: 53.8mm titanium case – sapphire crystals – green unidirectional bezel with green sapphire crystal insert – 50m water-resistant – 3D vertical automatic tourbillon movement – black rubber strap with folding clasp – limited to 50 pieces – EUR 100,000 (before taxes)

Oris Hangang Limited Edition

Over the past twenty years, Oris has demonstrated that it is one of the most capable brands when it comes to well-priced sports watches. First in line to prove this is the Aquis collection, known for its powerful, resistant and high-quality dive watches. There are dozens of editions available, including a recently introduced version with an in-house movement, but for today’s matters, we take a look at the Hangang Edition. Once again a watch with an environmental background, Oris proposes a striking green dial and ceramic bezel combination, with an original display with small seconds and circular date indication. All the rest is identical to the Aquis, with a reliable automatic Sellita movement, very well-built case and bracelet and overall superb quality/price ratio.

Quick facts: 43.5mm stainless steel case – sapphire crystal – green rotating ceramic bezel and dial – 300m water-resistant – automatic Oris 743 calibre, based on Sellita SW220-1 – stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp – limited to 2,000 pieces – EUR 2,400

Rado Captain Cook Bronze

Rado Captain Cook Bronze automatic 42mm

Inspired by a vintage model and recently revived by the brand, the Captain Cook might be Rado’s most desirable watch currently in production. With its unusual but attractive profile, combining convex and concave shapes, as well as cool, old-school elements, it has made its way into the heart of vintage dive watch enthusiasts. Recently, the brand introduced a collection of 3 bronze models, in blue, grey and this attractive green dial and bezel model. The 42mm case is on the large side but inside is a modern Powermatic movement, with extended power reserve. Altogether a very cool watch.

Quick facts: 42mm bronze case – sapphire crystal – green rotating ceramic bezel and dial – 300m water-resistant – automatic ETA C07 (Powermatic) – green leather strap on pin buckle – EUR 2,640

Ralph Lauren Polo Watch Green

2020 Ralph Lauren Polo Watch Collection

Ok, this one might not be a proper dive watch. It is, as we like to say, a desk-dive watch that will look best at the office or next to the pool at the weekend. Its bezel has a 60-min scale, but it is fixed, and the water-resistance of 100m is good for leisure activities, not for diving. Nicely executed, true to RL’s design codes, available in multiple colours and with countless combinations for the straps (incl. the option here of leather and silk), the Ralph Lauren Polo Watch looks best in this green bezel and dial version. Inside is a reliable Sellita SW-200 automatic.

Quick facts: 42mm stainless steel case – sapphire crystal – green fixed bezel and dial – 100m water-resistant – Sellita SW-200 automatic – available on leather, leather NATO or stainless steel bracelet – as of EUR 1,630

Seiko Prospex ‘Captain Willard’ SPB153

Seiko Prospex Diver Captain Willard Turtle Reissue SPB153 Green

There are countless icons at Seiko, but the latest re-edition of a vintage model is one that really caught our attention: the SPB153 or “Captain Willard”. Know as the Turtle, the Ref. 6105 gained fame in the late 1970s when Martin Sheen wore it in Apocalypse Now. For 2020, Seiko reissued this model in a slightly modernized package, meaning a sapphire crystal, a modern automatic movement and far better overall quality than the original model. Two versions have been presented: a classic black model, and this attractive olive green version with a cool military look. As always with Seiko, the price remains accessible.

Quick facts: 42.8mm stainless steel case – sapphire crystal – green rotating bezel and dial – 200m water-resistant – Seiko calibre 6R35 automatic – black rubber strap with pin buckle – EUR 1,150

Seiko Prospex Diver 200m ‘Sumo’ SPB103J1

The Willard isn’t the only green dive watch that Seiko offers. There are more, such as this high-end LX-Line limited edition with Spring Drive calibre. Also available with a cool green colour scheme is the emblematic Sumo watch, which was revamped last year to offer better specifications. This modern and ultra-robust watch now features an upgraded automatic movement and a sapphire crystal, as well as a slightly redesigned case and dial. Also available with a black dial and bezel, this 45mm instrument watch is even more attractive in this green combination.

Quick facts: 45mm stainless steel case – sapphire crystal – green rotating bezel and dial – 200m water-resistant – Seiko calibre 6R35 automatic – stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp – EUR 799

9 responses

  1. Eza makes a very nice dive watch, called the Sealander, and gives the option of a green bezel. No, I’m not an employee of theirs, but I am a customer, and I have liked the aesthetics of the watch and it’s specs and performance. At its price point ($769, I believe), it offers terrific value. Included is a 300m depth rating, a vintage diver’s presentation, and comes equipped with an eta 2824 movement.

  2. Are you suggesting that anyone who bought one of the watches listed did so only because they couldn’t get that insipid (and oversized) Starbucks Sub? That’s pretty insulting. Fwiw, unless they re-release the 36mm Explorer 1 again (with the new 70 hour movement), there’s no new Rolex I’d want to buy with my own money.

  3. The more I look atthe MB&F HM7 Aquapod the more I think it’s properly bonkers! Its certainly ‘different’ looking….but I don”t understand why they exist?!! But I am glad that they do, for anyone with 100K Euros to blow on a watch.

  4. After looking at this interesting line-up, who needs an over-priced and over-hyped Kermit?
    One of the market trends of the last 24 months is a focus on more affordable watches with a build quality and finishing which is at least on par with the expensive brands in the $5k-$12k segment. This article illustrates this trend perfectly.

  5. I have never seen anyone selling Citizen automatic watches which I thought was odd since they make Miyota movements. That looks like an absolute bargain. The Rolex is among the least desirable in this article (apart from brand snobbery). The Longines the Sumo or the Citizen would suit me better with the added advantage you unlikely to get robbed for your watch.

  6. Carlos is right, if you really want a green dive watch, bite the bullet and get the Hulkmariner … or forget it … 😉

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