With Geneva Watch Days in full swing, De Bethune unveils a new version of its DB25 Perpetual Calendar. As the more classical face of the brand, the DB25 range is home to complications like the award-winning Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon with deadbeat seconds or the practical travelling companion, the GMT Starry Varius. Launched in 2011, the DB25QP marries the sophisticated technicality of a perpetual calendar with the beauty of a 3D moon phase rotating in a signature blue De Bethune sky. The latest DB25 comes in a more compact 40mm titanium case and flaunts a two-tone silver and blue guilloché dial.
Like other DB25 models, the drum-shaped case features the characteristic openworked and curved lugs that give it an airy lightness and make it extremely comfortable to wear. A full 4mm smaller than the previous DB25 QP with a green dial we reviewed last year, the latest model has a 40mm diameter and a height of 11.3mm. The titanium drum-shaped case is polished throughout and fitted with a sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Respecting the layout of the earlier DB25QP, the day of the week and month are placed in two rectangular apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively, the date is indicated in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and the leap year is nestled in the moon phase indicator at noon. Despite the reduction in case size, the indications have plenty of breathing room and can be consulted at a glance.
The silvery central area of the dial displays an elegant 12-sector hand-guilloché pattern emanating from the centre. In contrast, the date ring with silvered Arabic numerals and the ring framing the phases of the moon are blue and applied to the guilloché background. The chapter ring is also blue and displays large silver-toned Roman numerals in relief and a peripheral minutes track. In addition to the different textures of the dial, the three rings (date, moon phase and chapter ring) are rounded. The raised chapter ring means that the minute hand has to have a slight curve at its tip to travel over the curved surface. The hour, minute and date hands are steel and mirror-polished by hand.
Represented by a palladium and blued steel sphere and accompanied by nine inlaid rose gold stars, the 3D moon performs its cycles and is accurate to one lunar day every 122 years. Just beneath the moon is the aperture for the leap year indication.
The movement exposed on the reverse side reveals the more contemporary face of De Bethune with the starry pattern on the three-quarter plate that is sandblasted and snailed by hand and the blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm. As an improved version of the calibre DB2324, the new (V2) calibre has been technically adapted to fit inside the 40mm case, and the diameter reduced from 35 to 30mm. Packed with De Bethune patents and innovations, the automatic movement has 423 parts, 47 jewels and sophisticated hand finishings, including hand-bevelled and hand-polished steel parts. Powered by a titanium and white gold rotor, the self-regulating double barrel delivers a robust 5-day power reserve. The diameter of De Bethune titanium balance has been reduced in size and is regulated by small white gold weights. The balance spring, also a De Bethune innovation, has a flat terminal curve, and the escape wheel is made of silicon.
The DB25QP comes with a supple alligator leather strap with blue stitching and a polished titanium pin buckle and is delivered with an additional grey fabric strap.
Availability & Price
The 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar will be limited to a production run of 15 units per year. The price is CHF 125,000 (excl.tax)
For more information, please visit DeBethune.ch.