The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series

Is there anything new to say about the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? As the watch marked its 50th Anniversary in 2022, countless stories, insights, and personal accounts surfaced worldwide, deepening our understanding and enriching watchmaking culture. Yet to kick off today’s look into the ultra-thin 39mm “Jumbo” editions of this legendary series, let’s take a moment to revisit both the key milestones and some lesser-known facts that shaped the Royal Oak’s history, and we shall start with the nickname.

As all of you know, the term “Jumbo” didn’t originate in watchmaking. It dates to Jumbo, the famous African elephant sold to the Barnum & Bailey circus by the London Zoo in 1882. The nickname later resurfaced in 1969 with the debut of another giant: the Boeing 747. By the mid-1970s, “Jumbo” began circulating in the watch world to describe the unusually large Royal Oak, along with other oversized timepieces of the era. By the 1990s, the term had stuck, becoming the universally recognised label for this iconic 39mm version.

Historical Context

Audemars Piguet created the Royal Oak in 1972 during intense socio-economic disruption and transformation within the watch industry. The collapse of the Bretton Woods system, with the U.S. ending dollar-to-gold convertibility in 1971, triggered financial instability that disrupted luxury markets. At the same time, the Swiss watch industry was transitioning from a controlled, cartel-based structure while facing a significant threat from Japanese quartz technology: cheaper, more accurate, and radically different from traditional mechanical watches. 

Yet in the 1970s, Audemars Piguet was a thriving company still family-run by Paul Edward Piguet and Jacques-Louis Audemars, and led by Georges Golay, a progressive entrepreneur from the Vallée de Joux who joined AP in 1945 and became Managing Director in 1967. Post-WWII, Audemars Piguet deepened its technical capabilities through a key partnership with LeCoultre & Cie, using ultra-thin ébauches like the Calibre 2120 and 2003. While complications remained central, ultra-thin models became a production focus. As AP scaled, it needed global reach. In 1969, Golay struck a strategic deal with SSIH (Société suisse pour l’industrie horlogère, a former group of Swiss watchmakers comprising the brands Omega, Tissot and Lemania), granting AP access to a vast distribution network (160 agents and 15,000 retailers) while maintaining independence.

This partnership sparked a pivotal moment. On April 10, 1970, just before the Basel Fair, Golay met with SSIH agents Carlo de Marchi (Italy), Charles Bauty (Switzerland), and Charles Dorot (France), nicknamed the “three musketeers.”  They challenged him to create a luxurious, modern sports watch in stainless steel, refined enough for evening wear yet fit for modern life. As Golay recalled, they questioned if gold alone still defined prestige, proposing a steel watch that could rival it.

Amid the industry turmoil of the early 1970s, Audemars Piguet faced a strategic challenge. CEO Georges Golay recognised that AP’s focus on fine finishing, low production, and complex designs was ill-suited for mass-market or sports watches. Steel, seen as too industrial for haute horlogerie, made the idea of a luxury steel watch seem risky, especially with established steel sports models by Omega, TAG Heuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Rolex. Pricing such a watch as gold appeared commercially unwise. 

However, Golay committed to the concept put forward by his agents, and to design this unprecedented piece, he called on Gérald Genta, an independent designer with a growing reputation. Genta, a trained jeweller, had worked with AP since the 1950s, contributing refined geometric models like the 5179, asymmetrical 5182, and the textured 5199. He also designed Universal Genève’s Polerouter (1954) and revamped Omega’s Constellation (1959). His creative synergy with Golay had grown over the years, and by the late 1960s, they were operating in near-total sync.

During that afternoon call, after speaking with SSIH agents in 1970, Golay asked Gérald Genta for a steel sports watch design that had never been done before by the next morning. Genta worked overnight and delivered: an ultra-thin movement in a monocoque case, octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws, integrated tapering steel bracelet, and a deep cobalt blue dial with Clous de Paris guilloché and smoky gradient. As Genta later recalled, “The screws, the seal, the bracelet, the dial – it was all there. It was quite amazing.” And so, AP got down to work.

By April 1971, as the Basel Fair was about to open, Georges Golay introduced the white gold prototype to the three musketeers. Carlo de Marchi and Charles Bauty agreed to buy 400 units each. Georges Golay decided to produce a first series of 1,000 in steel, assuming it would be easy to distribute the 200 additional examples to the rest of the world. 

Unlike the Royal Oak Offshore, which started its life with its actual name, by September 1971, Audemars Piguet still hadn’t settled on what to call its new steel sports watch, with options like Safari, Colorado, Kilimanjaro, Grand Prix, Diane, Surfrider, Canyon, Oxford, Ascot and Yale considered. The name “Royal Oak” first appeared in the archives in December 1971, while the idea was credited to Italian agent Carlo de Marchi. Inspired by the Royal Navy’s armoured ships and the oak tree that once hid King Charles II from Cromwell’s troops, the name evoked themes of strength, protection, and legend, rich with symbolism and open to broad interpretation.

When unveiled in 1972, the Royal Oak would redefine luxury watch design, protect Audemars Piguet from uncertainties in context, and inspire an entirely new category: the high-end stainless steel sports watch. That same year, in Basel, Gérald Genta presented the first model from his brand’s collection, which he had secretly developed since 1969, ending the designer’s relations with AP.

Before presenting the Royal Oak 39mm series lineage that started with reference 5402ST and developed over the years, allow me a few words about the Jumbo’s movement, calibre 2121, which will power RO Jumbo references until early 2022, for half a century.

The Calibre 2121

Gérald Genta never claimed he aimed to design a watch with bold wrist presence: 35-36 mm was standard for men’s watches then. Even sports models were modestly sized: the Rolex Daytona was 37mm, TAG Heuer’s 1969 Monaco was 38mm, and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 1970 Memovox Polaris II was considered way too big at 41mm.

The Royal Oak’s distinctive dimensions were driven by its unique case construction (with the wide bezel design) and the need to house an ultra-thin movement (what else!). Eight hexagonal screws pierced the monoblock case and thick gasket, but had to avoid the movement. Watchmakers placed them around the edge of the calibre 2121, a 28mm wide, 3.05mm thin selfwinding movement with date, derived from calibre 2120, and then the world’s thinnest.

Released in 1967 and developed over four years in collaboration between Audemars Piguet, LeCoultre & Cie, and Vacheron Constantin, calibre 2120 became one of horology’s most celebrated movements. Audemars Piguet used the 2121 version in the first Royal Oak (1972); Patek Philippe in the Nautilus 3700 in 1976 (cal. 28.255c), and Vacheron Constantin in 1977 within the 222, using it as calibre 1121. Notably, Jaeger-LeCoultre never used the 920/921 movement in its watches.

The first Audemars Piguet model to feature the calibre 2120 was 5271 (1967), designed by Genta and followed by more than 10 models the same year. Calibre 2120 was a mere 2.45mm thick and featured a patented system (CH14338/65) with its rotor supported on the periphery by miniature ruby rollers “to reduce the strong tensions on the central axis bearing the rotor and keep the efforts involved in central pivoting to a minimum.” Naturally, the calibre 2121, launched in 1970, retained the innovative feature and other characteristics of the 2120: bidirectional winding, 19,800 vibrations/hour, anti-shock system produced by the Kif Parechocs company, no seconds hand, and decorations of the highest standard, including circular graining, satin-brushing, polished sinks, chamfering, polishing, “Côtes de Genève”, gilding, snailing, and the 21-carat gold oscillating weight engraved with the inscription “Audemars-Piguet”, with a curious hyphen between the two names. Cal. 2020/2021 continued to evolve until retirement, yet to bore you no longer, let’s get straight to the Jumbo lineup.

1972 – The Royal Oak jumbo 5402ST, the Blueprint

It could go like this if we were to short-introduce the first RO 5402ST in 1972. At Basel this year, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST. It was the first high-end sports watch made entirely of stainless steel, priced on par with traditional gold dress watches. Designed overnight by Gérald Genta, the 5402ST redefined expectations: it is mechanically sophisticated, architecturally daring, and unapologetically modern.

The case measures 39mm across but remains thin at just 7.15mm. A monocoque construction makes this ultra-slim profile possible, with a one-piece case that eliminates the caseback. The movement is inserted from the front, a method typically reserved for specialised, water-resistant designs.

The octagonal bezel is secured with eight white gold hexagonal screws, all radially aligned. A visible rubber gasket beneath the bezel adds to the industrial character and contributes to a 100-meter water resistance rating, remarkable for an ultra-thin automatic timepiece. The dial, produced by Stern Frères, debuts a new “Petite Tapisserie” guilloché pattern, finely engraved using a pantograph machine. The deep blue hue, Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50, is achieved through galvanic treatment and a touch of black lacquer, creating a near-black tone with subtle depth and texture.

White gold hour markers and “bathtub”-style hands are filled with tritium for low-light legibility. A date window at 3 o’clock is cleanly integrated, while the applied “AP” monogram at 6 o’clock anchors the composition with an understated balance.

Powering the watch is Audemars Piguet Calibre 2121, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920/921 base. Measuring 3.05mm thick and 28mm in diameter, it is among the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements with a date complication. The rotor is ingeniously mounted on a peripheral rail supported by ruby rollers, eliminating the need for a central ball-bearing, which reduces thickness and wear. The movement offers a 40-hour power reserve and uses 36 jewels.

The design is completed with a fully integrated stainless steel bracelet crafted by Gay Frères. It consists of 154 individually hand-finished components in 34 different sizes. The tapering bracelet flows seamlessly into the case, with no lugs or end links, setting a new precedent for case-to-bracelet integration.

Audemars Piguet introduces the Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST as limited to a 1,000-piece series at an unprecedented price of CHF 3,300. This is nothing short of audacious for a watch made of stainless steel. By comparison, a Rolex Submariner in steel was around CHF 1,000-1,200, and even many solid gold dress watches from top-tier brands were priced lower, typically CHF 2,000-2,500. The Royal Oak’s pricing caused a stir; customers and retailers questioned how a steel watch could cost more than a gold one, no matter how finely finished. But Audemars Piguet was making a statement: this wasn’t just a sports watch; it was a luxury object crafted with the same precision, finishing, and innovation as a haute horlogerie masterpiece. It was a bold gamble that may change the industry forever.

A, B, C, D – the New Numbering System

As you likely know, the 1,000-piece limit didn’t hold as Georges Golay chose not to cap production there yet maintained the spirit of a limited series by moving beyond strict constraints, a decision that brings us to an intriguing shift: how the Royal Oak effectively sidelined Audemars Piguet’s traditional numbering system, which has been used for over a century.

Launching the first Royal Oak in 1972 raised serious questions about perceived value. Audemars Piguet planned to produce 1,000 pieces, a scale unheard of in Le Brassus, where everyone was used to unique models or minimal series. To complicate matters, the watch was made of stainless steel, a material considered inferior, yet the case was so complex it cost as much as gold.

To maintain a sense of exclusivity, Golay moved the internal case number inside the case and instead engraved a bold, incremental serial number on the caseback, starting with “No. 1.” This “Royal Oak number,” later known as the “small case number,” assured each owner that their watch was part of a limited series. And in true strategist fashion, Golay prefixed the numbers with the letter “A”, leaving room for future series B, C, etc, just in case the Royal Oak succeeded. As history shows, it did, and the A, B, C and D series of Model 5402 came into being.

The first Royal Oak proved an unexpected success. By the end of 1973, over 1,000 units had been sold, prompting Audemars Piguet to extend the A-series production to 2,000. In total, 1,937 A-series watches were sold between 1972 and 1989. At the end of 1974, as AP reconsidered the model’s future, a small batch of 129 watches was produced without a small case number, of which nearly all were sold between January and September 1975.

Meanwhile, AP launched the B-series, skipping numbers 1–999 and starting from B1000 to B2000, likely to preserve sub-1000 numbers as exclusive to the A-series. The first B-series watch left Le Brassus on March 21, 1975, and 845 units were sold between 1975 and 1993.

The C-series followed, beginning on December 1, 1976, with 953 pieces numbered from C1000 to C2000, sold through 1987. The D-series came next, with 404 watches distributed between 1977 and 1989. Finally, between 1988 and 1990, AP closed the chapter on the original 5402ST with a rare batch of just 21 pieces engraved with a “small number” but no letter, marking the quiet end of a legend. 

One is right to ask if the lettered batches had any notable differences. There were very subtle, like signed or unsigned crowns, refinements in text alignment or finish, evolution in font and date aperture, variations in Tapisserie texture and minor updates to bracelet finishing, mostly things resulting from updates to production. Still, the overall design remained purposefully intact to ensure consistency.

The Migration of the AP logo from 6 to 12 o’clock

Of course, there’s the topic of the position of the AP logo, which started at 6 o’clock and moved to the 12 o’clock position somewhere at the end of the 1970s. The brand’s archives do not document the reason for this change, but it mostly had to do with the fact that, after several years, hands begin to rub or even bump into the applied logo to the point of stopping the watch (the distance between the hand and the logo is five to ten hundredths of a millimetre). However, in order to provide a permanent solution, Audemars Piguet decided on February 24, 1977, to move the logo to 12 o’clock, so as to leave sufficient space for the movement of the hours hand. The next day, an order for new dials was sent to Stern. 

No precise date can be determined to when the last 5402st with AP at 6 o’clock was delivered, or when the first one with a logo at 12 o’clock was made. Worse still, AP’s archives do not even reveal whether the two variants ever coexisted or not. According to the brand, “Let us focus exclusively on the Bleu nuit, Nuage 50 variant with white gold hour-markers, intended for the stainless steel Royal Oak 5402st. Between 1971 and 1990, the company ordered a total of 4,992 dials, of which at least 4,085 have an AP monogram at 6 o’clock – implying that a maximum of 907 had it in the 12 o’clock position. In an amusing little exercise, assuming that each of the last 907 Royal Oak watches sold were equipped with a dial bearing a logo at 12 o’clock, the dial change would have taken place in the spring of 1978, i.e. around number 1500 of the C series.” 

Continuing this logic, Audemars Piguet adds that if it “had used the 4,085 dials with the AP monogram at 6 o’clock available in stock before starting to use the dials with AP at 12 o’clock, the watchmakers would have started to equip 5402 watches with AP at 12 o’clock dials in November 1981, corresponding to the end of the D series. Only 219 new watches would have been fitted with this dial at the time of their first sale. This hypothesis is even more improbable because it implies that Audemars Piguet would have waited more than three years between the order of the first “6 o’clock” dials and their first use! The truth probably lies somewhere between these two extremes, between February 1977 and November 1981.”

Royal Oak Jumbo meets Gold – Ref. 5402BA, 5402SA, 5402BC

While steel remains the hallmark of the Royal Oak, precious metals began entering the 5402 line in 1977, with one notable exception: a unique white gold piece delivered to the Shah of Iran in 1972.

The 5402BA, crafted in yellow gold, marks the first official precious metal version. Produced in 736 units (numbered 1–745) between 1977 and 1990, it appears in several dial variations – some gem-set, some featuring a white date disc, though most use a matching gilded disc. A more rigid white gold clasp soon replaced early yellow gold folding clasps.

Also introduced in 1977 is the 5402SA, the two-tone variant combining steel and yellow gold. It features a slate grey dial with matching yellow-gold hands and hour markers, offering a striking play of contrast and reflection. From 1978 to 1985, 876 examples were sold, numbered 1–951.

That same year, AP debuts the 5402BC in white gold. Typically set with 11 diamond hour markers mounted on round or square white gold bases, it also offers a range of dial colours. Unlike its siblings, it comes with non-tritium baton hands. A rare edition, just 150 pieces were sold from 1977 to 1991, numbered 1–151. These precious metal variants expand the Royal Oak’s reach, reinforcing its identity as a sport-luxury pioneer and a true platform for elegant variation.

1992 – The Return of the Royal Oak Jumbo, the Reference 14802

For its first two decades, the Royal Oak (excluding perpetual calendars) existed in just one size: the original 39mm “Jumbo”, nearly all sold before 1982, with a few quiet years after as there were other Royal Oaks to consider on offer (the collection comprised almost 20 references – 150 models in steel, gold, platinum, in rectangular cases, with nearly 30 different calibres).

The 1992 commemorative Royal Oak Jubilee Ref. 14802 was issued as a 1,000-piece limited edition, paying tribute to the original Ref. 5402. Production included 692 in steel with blue and salmon pink dials, 286 in yellow gold (14802BA, ivory and slate grey dials, gold and white dials added later), and 20 in platinum (14802PT, blue and hammered Tuscany blue dials, released from 1995 onward).

To showcase the movement, a three-part case replaced the monobloc one, so the sapphire caseback offered a clear view of the Calibre 2121, with most gold rotors engraved with a 20th-anniversary motif and corresponding case number. Another notable difference is repositioning the AP logo to replace the 12 o’clock index.

1992 – The Royal Oak Jumbo Openworked Calibre 2020

Between 1992 and 2000, Audemars Piguet released several ultra-thin “Jumbo” Royal Oak models in very limited numbers. Most were openworked, gem-set, and powered by the Calibre 2120 with no date display.

The first was the unique Royal Oak 14811 (1992), created to support the newly founded Audemars Piguet Foundation. It featured a finely engraved oak tree, a motif later seen on models 15075, 12517, and 12530. Other notable pieces include the gem set, openworked 14789, 14793, and 14814, while models 14884 and 12518 (a one-off for the brand’s 125th Anniversary) showcased a naval anchor and stormy waves, nodding to the collection name’s possible maritime link.

1996 – The Discreet One, Royal Oak Jumbo reference 15002

As early as 1991, Audemars Piguet had plans to reintroduce a non-limited Royal Oak Jumbo featuring a solid caseback. However, production was postponed until all 1,000 units of the Jubilee reference 14802 had been sold, which ultimately took four years. By 1996, with 350 Calibre 2121 ébauches available, the stage was set for a new release, and AP unveiled reference 15002. Still, production remained extremely limited: over the next three years, just 174 pieces were made in steel and 12 in yellow gold.

The 15002 stayed true to the original 5402’s design, preserving the monocoque case, Tapisserie dial, tapered bracelet, and oversized gasket. The bezel’s bevel angle was the most significant change, which increased from 40 to 45 degrees. Additional tweaks included a slightly larger AP monogram at 12 o’clock and an enlarged Audemars Piguet signature. Despite its fidelity to the 1972 original, the 15002 underscored the need for a modernised version that could carry the “Jumbo” into the 21st century.

2000 – The Modern Royal Oak Jumbo reference 15202 (first generation)

By 1999, with the discontinuation of reference 15002, Audemars Piguet was ready to usher in a new era for the Royal Oak “Jumbo.” The brand had ambitious plans: 250 pieces in stainless steel and 50 in gold, all to be produced in 2000. The result was the debut of the 39mm Royal Oak Ref. 15202, unveiled at SIHH that same year.

The new 15202 introduced a fresh take on the classic, offering two blue dial variants and a silver-toned version, also available in yellow gold (Ref. 15202BA). In 2006, a rose gold 15202OR with a silver dial joined the lineup. These models stood out for their Grande Tapisserie dials, a departure from the traditional Petite Tapisserie, adding a bolder texture to the iconic face. The case also returned to a three-piece construction with a sapphire crystal caseback, though this update came with a trade-off: water resistance dropped by 50 meters. Still, the watch retained its original proportions, staying true to the Jumbo DNA.

The early 2000s also brought some standout limited editions. The Jumbo Ref. 15128ST, explicitly created for the Italian market, featured a blue dial with Arabic numerals, a unique design choice within the Jumbo series, and came with an additional green dial, also marked with Arabic indices. The rotor was specially engraved with “Anniversaire Royal Oak Italie,” highlighting exclusivity.

And a major shift happened behind the scenes. Around 2002, AP began in-house production of Calibre 2121, ending a long-standing reliance on external suppliers. This move towards movement independence followed the conclusion of its strategic partnership and partial ownership of Jaeger-LeCoultre, in which AP held a 40% stake from 1986 until 2000.

2012 – The 40th Anniversary and the Second Generation Reference 15202

Since the Royal Oak’s 40th Anniversary, reference 15202 took flight in a way that reshaped the modern legacy of Audemars Piguet. Revived with dials that paid tribute to the original 1972 Series A models, featuring the AP logo at 6 o’clock, the classic Petite Tapisserie motif, and the iconic Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 hue, the 15202 appeared in both stainless steel and rose gold. Alongside them came standout variations like the yellow gold version with striking blue and gold-toned dials and the contemporary openworked 15203 in platinum with blackened bridges, followed by an elegant pink gold edition.

By the mid-2010s, the 15202 was the only 39mm model in the Royal Oak collection. As demand for the “Jumbo” continued to grow, 2018 saw the revival of bi-colour editions. The Royal Oak 15202IP paired titanium and platinum, showcasing a smoked blue gradient dial. The white gold 15202BC emerged a year later, featuring a warm pink gold-tone (salmon) dial. In 2021, platinum returned with the 15202PT, this time with a smooth smoked green sunburst dial: modern, minimal, and luxurious.

Then came the finale. Audemars Piguet announced the end of the 15202 line, closing the chapter with a one-of-a-kind piece: the Royal Oak 15202XT Jumbo for Only Watch 2021. Crafted in bead-blasted titanium with a metallic glass bezel (a palladium-based alloy), it was a fitting sendoff to a reference that had defined a decade of modern Royal Oak history.

2022 – The 50th Anniversary and the Royal Oak Jumbo 16202

To celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet brought seven new calibres into the collection, and all 72 references in production were fitted with a “50 years” anniversary rotor. A new Royal Oak “Jumbo” reference was revealed, the 16202.

The Royal Oak Ref. 16202 is remarkably true to the aesthetic codes of the original 5402, faithfully preserving design, while the most significant evolution was the introduction of the newly developed Calibre 7121 to the series. Slightly larger in diameter (29.6 mm vs. 28 mm), the movement retained a slim 3.2 mm profile and brought modern technical improvements, like the added quick-set date function.

The new going train layout freed up central space to accommodate a wider rotor hub, eliminating the need for the 2121’s support ring and enabling a larger barrel. The result was a higher torque output and an increased power reserve of 55 hours. The barrel is notably large and thick-walled, even allowing it to be fastened with screws. While this reduces space for the mainspring, the spring stores significantly more energy, making the robust barrel an effective torque capsule. Visually, the movement stands out with a skeletonised rose gold barrel bridge that doubles as structural support. The ratchet wheel is purposefully small, sitting flush with other wheels to maintain thinness.

The balance assembly uses a free-sprung, wide-rimmed balance with six adjustable weights and an unusually offset stud holder mounted on a separate bridge for stability and easier servicing. This design preserves the rigidity and flatness of the long balance bridge and helps regulate beat error for improved timekeeping. Operating at 28,800 vibrations/hour, the movement delivers better chronometric stability, and the bi-directional automatic winding system was also upgraded. If the movement inside the Royal Oak Ref. 16202 marked a technical leap, the exterior remained almost entirely faithful to its predecessor. The dial, markers, and hands were virtually unchanged, preserving the appeal of the original design.

The iconic dial of the steel reference 16202ST retained its signature shade of Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50, a colour deeply tied to the Royal Oak’s identity, but now achieved through PVD. Key elements like the hour markers, minute track (minuterie), applied AP logo, the “Audemars Piguet Automatic” text, and the date window all remain in place, visually untouched (almost as there were updates, like the date window that has been shifted ever so slightly closer to the edge of the dial, a subtle adjustment necessitated by the new movement).

Despite the mechanical upgrade, the case dimensions remain identical: 39mm in diameter and 8.1mm thick. The bracelet also stays true to form yet comes with better ergonomics, with its signature hand-finished satin brushing and polished chamfers, and is secured by the same double folding clasp used on the 15202ST. From the outside, the 16202ST was nearly indistinguishable from its predecessor.

Along with the steel reference, the 16202OR in pink gold with a smoked Petite Tapisserie dial in grey and 16202BA yellow gold with a yellow gold-toned dial were launched, while the platinum 16202PT came with a deep smoked green sunburst dial, evoking the colour of the spruce trees in the Vallée de Joux. In 2023, the 16202BC, a boutique-exclusive white gold version with a grained blue Tuscan dial, was revealed, and the 16202XT in lightweight titanium and BMG, an innovative palladium-based alloy, with a striking burgundy dial.

In addition, openworked versions in steel and gold (16204ST in 2022, 16204BA in 2023, 16204BC in 2024) were introduced, with an entirely new skeletonised mechanism measuring a mere 2.7 mm in thickness, Calibre 7124, with no date indication.

2022 – The first Tourbillon in a Royal Oak Jumbo, The RD#3 reference 26670ST

As it became customary to include all 39mm ultra-thin RO models into the Jumbo category, let’s conclude the story by mentioning the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, the first “Jumbo” in fifty years to flaunt an automatic flying tourbillon (Ref. 26670ST). Five years in development, Audemars Piguet’s ultra-thin automatic flying tourbillon marked a significant technical achievement, launched as part of its Research and Development (RD) series. 

In 2022, AP introduced the RD#3, powered by the newly developed Calibre 2968, to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th Anniversary. Unlike its predecessors, RD#3 was not a concept but a production model, first launched in a 39mm “Jumbo” case, with a 37mm version arriving later in the year with a different dial colour.

Adapting a flying tourbillon, previously limited to 41mm cases, into the slimmer 39mm Jumbo required a total reengineering. The titanium tourbillon cage was redesigned with a peripheral drive, reducing mass and improving energy distribution. For visual impact, the tourbillon was placed at dial level, and the balance arms were repositioned to reveal more of the movement in action, offering technical finesse and a striking view of the watch’s mechanical heartbeat.

Over five decades, the Royal Oak Jumbo 39mm has evolved from a disruptive design concept into one of the most revered timepieces in modern watchmaking. From the original Ref. 5402 that redefined luxury in steel, to the technically refined 16202, the Jumbo has consistently balanced tradition with innovation. Each generation has paid homage to Gérald Genta’s original vision. As Audemars Piguet continues to expand the Royal Oak lineage, the Jumbo 39mm remains the cornerstone of the collection: exceptional in design, precise in execution, and always on time.