Monochrome Watches
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Buying Guide

A Quintet of Tantalising Black & Gold Watches

One of the most striking combinations of material and colour is on the rise in 2023.

| By Robin Nooy | 6 min read |
Breguet Classique 7637 Repetition Minutes Pink Gold Black Enamel

Although we all love the classical combinations like stainless steel and blue or a silvery-white dial against a brown leather strap, it’s the striking contrast of black and gold that seems on the rise. Trends ebb and flow, and some might be a bit more persistent than others but the fact is, we’ve taken notice of the recent rise of watches in this distinct two-tone outfit. And although the combination is far from ‘never-been-done-before’, it makes for sensational watches when done right. And these five recently introduced watches have done things very right by not only combining colours but on occasion, also incorporating different types of materials to achieve the desired effect. 

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Tourbillon Vantablack

We start things off with the deepest black possible, as H. Moser & Cie recently introduced the Endeavour in rose gold and Vantablack. For the first time ever Moser combines the two in the Endeavour range in two models, this being the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept. The Vantablack dial is really something else and makes it look like a black hole on the wrist. Up to 99,975% of all the light that hits it gets trapped inside the billions of nanotubes that make up the material. The only ‘break’ in this vast emptiness are the leaf-shaped gold hands and the tourbillon escapement that regulates the in-house movement. At CHF 75,000 it’s certainly not for everyone’s budget but it’s a fascinating watch nonetheless.

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Quick Facts – 40mm x 10.7mm – 18k red gold case, polished – sapphire crystal front and back – Vantablack dial – red gold leaf-shaped hands – 1-min tourbillon at 6 o’clock – HMC 804 in-house automatic – 21,600vph – 72h power reserve – matte black alligator strap with 18k red gold folding clasp – ref. 1804-0403 – CHF 75,000 (incl. tax)

Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

Leave it to Breguet to bring forth one of the most subdued yet captivating black & gold watches of the year (so far at least). The new Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes comes in a stunning 18k pink gold case with a black Grand Feu enamel dial (which is notoriously hard to do) finished with stylish Breguet numerals and hands. The only hint that there’s something rather special going on on the other side, is the slider that pokes out from the caseband. This activates the hammers of the minute repeater mechanism to chime the hours and minutes. The movement is beautifully finished with hand-engraved details throughout. This doesn’t come cheap though, as it’s priced at EUR 264,700.

Breguet Classique 7637 Repetition Minutes Pink Gold Black Enamel

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Quick Facts – 42.5mm x 12.25mm – 18k pink gold case, fluted casebands – soldered lugs with screw pins – sapphire crystal front & back – gloss black Grand Feu enamel dial – Breguet numerals – open-tipped Breguet hands – Calibre 567.2, in-house – manual winding – 358 components – 18,000vph – 40h power reserve – hours, minutes, minute repeater – black alligator leather strap with pink gold folding clasp – EUR 264,700

Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter

A dive watch is normally not associated with 18k gold, especially when it’s as focused as a Doxa SUB 300. However, on the occasion of the Geneva Watch Days this year, Doxa introduced the black ceramic and 18k gold SUB 300β Sharkhunter. From every angle, it remains very much a Doxa, just with a very striking combination of materials, colours and finishes. The case is made in matte black ceramic, the crown, bezel and indices are 18k 3N gold, the hands are gloss black and the dial has a grained finish with a “ghosted” date display. It’s powered by a Sellita SW200-1, worn on a black FKM rubber strap, is not a limited edition and has a price of EUR 7,250.

Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter Blakc Ceramic and Gold

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Quick Facts – 42.50mm x 44.50mm x 11.95mm – matte black ceramic case – 18k 3N gold bezel and crown – black double-scale insert – sapphire crystal & closed caseback – 300m water-resistant – grained black dial with applied gold indices & gloss black hands – “ghosted” date – Sellita SW200-1, automatic – 28,800vph – 38h power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, date – black FKM rubber strap with extendable folding clasp – non-limited edition – EUR 7,250

Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date

Ok, technically the dial of the beautiful Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date is listed as dark grey, but it’s close enough. To mark the launch of its 31st in-house developed movement in 35 years, Frederique Constant introduced three new models in the Classic collection. While the other two are just as interesting as this one, there’s something about the contrast of the black (or grey) against the rose gold case that just works. The display combines a power reserve, big date and moon phase displays, yet looks remarkably modern and fresh. This specific edition is limited to 350 pieces and retails for EUR 17,995.

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Quick Facts – 40mm x 12.19mm – rose gold case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – onion-shaped crown – 30m water-resistant – dark grey dial – applied rose gold indices & hands – power reserve, big date & moonphase – Calibre FC-735, in-house automatic – 28,800vph – 50h power reserve – dark brown alligator leather strap with folding clasp – limited edition of 350 pieces – EUR 17,995

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Carbon & Gold

The Octo Finissimo is a modern-day icon and a huge success for Bvlgari. No wonder it comes in many guises, from the original titanium execution, to brushed rose gold and even black ceramic. New for 2023 is a carbon & gold take on the edgy Octo Finissimo concept, featuring a forged carbon case and bracelet, with rose gold accents on the dial and an automatic movement with solid rose gold bridges. And, to stay in tune with the rest, the platinum micro-rotor has been plated in gold as well! The result is a mesmerizing play of swirls of carbon fibre intersected by the radiant glow of the rose gold elements. It’s wafer-thin, exceptionally light and will set you back EUR 29,000.

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Quick Facts – Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Carbon Gold – 103779 – 40 mm carbon case, 6.90mm thick, transparent caseback; polished pink gold crown with black ceramic insert – water-resistant to 100m – carbon dial with gold-coloured hands and indexes – mechanical Manufacture ultra-thin movement with automatic winding via a platinum micro-rotor – Caliber BVL 138 with small seconds, 2.23 mm thick, 36.60 mm in diameter, 21,600 V/H, 60-hour power reserve – carbon bracelet with 3-blade folding buckle – EUR 29,000

9 responses

  1. Hi mate… nothing personal, but if you carry hatred towards a chunk of metal, you’ve got some psychological kinks to iron out.

  2. Keep the Breguet and throw all the rest in the bin. No hatred though. Easy Hubertje.

  3. All of them are a waste of money, but at least the Breguet can claim some elegance in its offering; that is until you read the price the chuckleheads are putting forth.

  4. They are all out of my league but the nice part I do not like any of the selection.

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