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Buying Guide

The Best Of Independent Watchmaking at Geneva Watch Days 2021

The indie watchmaking scene was at its best at GWD 2021.

calendar | ic_dehaze_black_24px By Xavier Markl | ic_query_builder_black_24px 4 min read |
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante

As the dust settles on Geneva Watch Days 2021, it is time for us to look back at what happened during the past week. Just like in 2020, the Geneva Watch Days have been organized following a particularly efficient (and pleasant) format: a self-managed, decentralized multi-brand watch event during which enthusiasts, clients and the press could discover brands’ novelties in their individual showrooms mostly located in hotels or boutiques in the centre of the city. Baselworld also officially kicked off its new format with a pop-up event gathering about 10 brands, in Geneva, where it was not hard to think of the past splendour and exuberance of the Baselworld event, just a few years ago. But enough of that, here’s a round-up of some of our favourite timepieces of independent watchmakers seen during Geneva Watch Days 2021.

Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante

With the Antarctique Rattrappante, Czapek confirms its status as one of the rising independent watchmakers. The new 42.5mm version of the brand’s luxury sports watch features a superb dial-side split-seconds chronograph with the chronograph mechanism on the upper part and the rattrapante on the lower part. The automatic calibre SXH6 is manufactured with Jean-François Mojon of Chronode. As a monopusher chronograph, the pusher integrated at 2 o’clock in the crown guard allows you to operate the start-stop-reset functions. The split-seconds function is actuated using the 10 o’clock pusher. A limited edition of 77 pieces, it was sold out in minutes.

For more information, please check our hands-on article here.

Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante

Quick facts: 42.5mm steel case – water-resistant to 120m – proprietary calibre SXH6 (made in partnership with Chronode) automatic, dial-side split-second chronograph  with column wheels and horizontal clutch – stainless steel bracelet with exclusive interchangeability system – folding buckle – limited edition of 77 pieces – CHF 46,000

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.6-3 for ART IN TIME

This sporty, unique piece, DLC-steel Ferdinand Berthoud FB1 Chronometer made for Art in Time in Monaco is not per se a major novelty. But just like for every Ferdinand Berthoud, the attention to details is spectacular. And the Berthoud Tourbillon, fusée-and-chain movement is without doubts one of the most beautiful in the industry… simply breathtaking.

For more information, please check our hands-on article here.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB1.6-3 Unique Piece Art in Time

Quick facts: 44mm DLC-steel case – water-resistant to 30m – calibre FB-T.FC-2 with manual winding, tourbillon with fusée and chain – alligator strap – pin buckle – unique piece for Art in Time – CHF 212,000

Gérald Genta Arena Retrograde with Smiling Disney Mickey Mouse

Gerald Genta brings back its iconic Mickey Mouse design Genta with a cool 150-piece limited edition. The rule-breaking designer had a fertile imagination. Among his countless creations were retrograde display watches with their original way to indicate the time. These included quirky Disney character watches with retrograde indications. This 2021 limited edition is presented in a 41mm Arena case and it is powered by the automatic BVL 262 caliber with jumping hours and jumping minutes (displayed by Mickey’s arm).

For more information, please check our hands-on article here.

2021 Gerald Genta Arena Retrograde with Smiling Disney Mickey Mouse Limited Edition 103613

Quick facts: 41mm steel case – water-resistant to 100m – automatic calibre BVL 262, jumping hours and retrograde minutes – fabric strap – folding buckle – limited edition of 150 pieces – CHF 16,500

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Crossing the H. Moser minimalist perpetual calendars with their sporty Streamliner, this fusion of two signature models reaffirms the brand’s talent for making complications look simple. The 42.3mm steel case houses the hand-wound in-house HMC 812 calibre and its smart perpetual calendar. The calendar functions are so discreet that they are easy to overlook; the date is displayed at 4 o’clock, the months rely on the hour indices and are indicated by a small red and white central hand, while the leap year indicator is positioned on the movement side.

For more information, please check our hands-on article here.

H moser Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Quick facts: 42.3mm steel case – water-resistant to 120m – manual-winding calibre HMC 812, perpetual calendar – steel bracelet – folding buckle – CHF 49,900

Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

The Central Impulse Chronometer is a double-wheel escapement driven by two independent gear trains, each with its own barrel and constant force remontoir d’égalité. Following the initial introduction as a concept watch last year, this impressive development takes final form. If virtually nothing has changed from a technical perspective, its new dial bringing an elegant new look and an interesting perspective on the movement and its concept. Presented in a 44mm case with two box sapphire crystals, its dial now features two circular openings, two interlaced circles forming the figure eight. These reveal the most critical and spectacular components of the movement, the escape wheels and the remontoirs.

For more information, please check our hands-on article here.

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer Final Version

Quick facts: 44mm white gold case – water-resistant to 30m – manual-winding calibre 9012, Central Impulse Chronometer, two barrels, two independent gear trains, two remontoirs d’égalité – alligator strap – pin buckle – two limited editions of 25 pieces – CHF 128,000

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1 response

  1. It was a really good show for the independents, enjoyed what was shown. The Czapek stands out as probably my favourite watch of the year so far. Looking forward to seeing the Only Watch version.

    1

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