Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Buying Guide

Time Exposed on Six Fully Openworked Watches

We always get excited when we can see movement components on the dial, not just on the back!

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Robin Nooy | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 6 min read |

Like many of you, we get excited by the delicate intricacies inside mechanical watches. When it’s an absurdly complex yet meticulously finished movement, we appreciate being able to dive into every little nook and cranny. So when watchmakers think about how to expose these beating hearts, we pay extra attention! With that in mind, here are six fascinating watches that showcase their mechanical movements in the best possible way.

Artya Luminity Wavy

The Luminity Wavy is ArtyA’s first-ever micro-rotor automatic, and it comes in several fun and exciting configurations. The case is machined from grade 5 titanium, which can be DLC-coated if desired, or crafted from full sapphire crystal. The transparent dial can be tinted or dressed up with natural stone elements. However, it will always reveal part of the movement underneath, which is pretty cool. Speaking of which, the proprietary ArtyA AMR-02, made by Telos, has an 82-hour power reserve. Worn on a Nubuck leather strap, it retails between EUR 19,100 and EUR 42,600.

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For more information, please visit Artya.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 13mm – natural or DLC-coated grade 5 titanium or sapphire crystal case – sculpted “Wavey” design – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m or 50m water-resistant – clear or tinted sapphire crystal, or natural stone dial elements – polished applied markers & hands – ArtyA AMR-02, proprietary micro-rotor automatic by Telos – 28,800vph – 82h power reserve – Nubuck leather strap with pin buckle – limited to 99 pieces per configuration – EUR 19,100 to EUR 42,600

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green

The Tonda PF is the embodiment of Parmigiani Fleurier’s keen eye for sporty refinement, and even more so, perhaps, the Tonda PF Skeleton. The latest edition features a fully skeletonised dial and movement finished in a lovely slate green. The curvaceous bridges stand out against the stainless steel case and knurled platinum crown, offering a distinct blend of style and substance. It’s a limited edition of 50 pieces, presented on the Tonda PF’s signature integrated bracelet, and retails for CHF 65,000.

For more information, please visit Parmigiani.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 8.5mm – stainless steel case, brushed & polished – knurled platinum bezel – sapphire crystal front & back – 100m water-resistant – skeletonised slate green dial – delta-shaped hour & minute hands – calibre F777, in-house skeleton automatic – 28,800vph – 60h power reserve – integrated stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp – limited to 50 pieces – CHF 65,000

Armin strom Gravity Equal Force Gold & Brown

One of the ways to reveal as much as possible of a movement is to put (almost) everything on the dial side of the watch. Armin Strom does this with the fabulous Gravity Equal Force, which reveals most of its running gear in full frontal view. You can see the micro-rotor, the keyless works, and the barrel suspended under individual finger bridges. Time is indicated on an off-centred tinted sapphire dial on the left. The movement’s brown mainplate has a guilloché decoration, contrasting beautifully with the rose gold case. Fitted to a matte brown Nubuck leather strap, it retails for EUR 39,400 and is limited to 20 pieces per year.

For more information, please visit ArminStrom.com.

Quick Facts – 41mm x 12.65mm – 18k rose gold case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – tinted sapphire sub-dial, luminous hands & markers – brown guilloché base dial – calibre ASB19, in-house micro-rotor automatic – stop-works mechanism – 25,200vph – 72h power reserve – matte brown Nubuck leather strap with pin buckle – limited to 20 pieces per year – EUR 39,400 excl. VAT

MB&F SP ONe

Special Project One is the name given by MB&F to its latest mechanical marvel. Stepping away from the imaginative universes of the Horological and Legacy Machines, the SP One is the brand’s take on a classical 38mm time-only watch. But MB&F being, well, MB&F, they’ve opted to construct a unique Y-shaped movement, suspended in an elegant rose gold or platinum case and sandwiched between two slices of sapphire crystal. It marvelously puts everything in full view! It comes with a calfskin leather strap, is not limited to a specific number, and costs EUR 64,000 in rose gold or EUR 69,000 in platinum.

For more information, please visit MBandF.com.

Quick Facts – 38mm x 12mm – rose gold or platinum case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – crown at 11′ – 30m water-resistant – openworked structure – inclined off-centred H&M subdial – Y-shaped SP One movement, in-house – manual winding – 18,000vph – 72h power reserve – calfskin leather strap with pin buckle – not limited by number – EUR 64,000 (gold) or EUR 69,000 (platinum)

Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick’s latest creation, the wonderful S3 Deadbeat Seconds, is another example of a watch holding nothing back. The S3 Deadbeat Seconds reveals its inner workings right over the dial, with the oversized balance wheel, winding mechanism, and parts of the jumping seconds mechanism, among others, mounted topside. Around the back, the splendour continues, and everything is finished meticulously by hand. It can be configured to your liking, and prices start at GBP 40,000 in steel or GBP 49,000 in gold. Only a handful of pieces will be available each year.

For more information, please visit Garrick.co.uk.

Quick Facts – 42mm x 11mm – 904L stainless steel or gold case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – onion-style crown – 100m water-resistant – openworked dial – German silver chapter ring – blued steel hands – jumping seconds mechanism – power reserve display – exposed Trinity balance – calibre DB-G07, in-house – manual winding – 18,000vph – bespoke options – handmade leather strap with pin buckle – GBP 40,000 ex. VAT (steel) or GBP 47,000 ex. VAT (gold)

Norqain Independence Skeleton 40

Coming down to a more sensible level, perhaps, is Norqain’s latest Independence Skeleton 40. This also carries a more sporty vibe, yet pulls back the covers on its mechanics nonetheless. You have the option of a stainless steel case or a black DLC-coated one. The 40mm wide case houses a skeletonised version of the brand’s calibre NB08S, which is based on a Sellita SW200 automatic. And with no dial, in the traditional sense at least, you can enjoy seeing the movement at work from both ends. It comes on a steel bracelet or FKM rubber strap, and costs between EUR 3,950 and EUR 4,160.

For more information, please visit Norqain.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 12.05mm – stainless steel case, brushed & polished – optional black DLC-coating – sapphire crystal front & back – 100m water-resistant – openworked dial – applied markers & hands with SLN – calibre NB-08S, Sellita SW200 base – skeletonised construction – 28,800vph – 41h power reserve – three-link steel bracelet or rubber strap with pin buckle – EUR 3,950 to EUR 4,160

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3 responses

  1. Ought to get a discount on the PF for the loss of the magnificent guilloché dial. At least Armin Strom kept some in the background.

  2. Armin Strom and MB&F look great, but the rest just looks like somebody poured a pot of Spaghetti into a watch case.

    2

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