The Tourbillon is, without doubt, one of the most spectacular and prestigious complications – a must-have in the collection of a respectable watchmaker. Invented to counteract the effects of gravity on the regulating organ of mechanical watches, this now-ubiquitous mechanism has remained long the preserve of a few watchmakers. The past few months have brought their share of new tourbillon watches… and here are five great options.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367PT Blue Enamel
When thinking about tourbillon watches, Breguet, the inventor of this mechanism, immediately comes to mind. Among the latest creations of the brand, the visually striking combination of blue enamel and platinum ultra-thin tourbillon is unapologetically elegant. 41mm in diameter, the lithe case houses the Calibre 581, an ultra-thin, automatic tourbillon with a peripheral rotor. This superbly hand-decorated movement includes modern solutions with a titanium tourbillon carriage. The escapement and the balance spring are made of silicon. The power reserve is comfortable, at 80 hours. www.breguet.com.
Quick facts: 41mm x 7.45mm – platinum case – blue grand feu enamel dial – calibre 581, in-house – automatic with peripheral rotor – hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon – alligator strap with platinum folding buckle – CHF 158,000
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda White Gold
La Esmeralda is surely one of the most exquisite examples of a horological icon created in the late 19th century, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with three gold bridges. The majestic architecture of the movement stands out with rounded-off arrow-shaped bridges aligned on a guilloché plate. The finishing is simply flawless. The power reserve is of 60 hours and the calibre is wound by a platinum micro-rotor fitted concentrically under the barrel. The latest edition of the Esmeralda is presented in a 44mm white gold case and worn on a black alligator strap. www.girard-perregaux.com.
Quick facts: 44mm x 14.55mm – white gold case – calibre GP09400-0016, in-house – automatic with platinum micro-rotor – hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon – alligator strap with gold folding buckle – CHF 212,000
H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
This spring 2020, Edouard Meylan (H. Moser & Cie.) and Maximilian Büsser (MB&F) presented co-signed creations, giving birth to some surprising and interesting horological cross-hybridization, pooling their skills. One of them is the H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, which borrows MB&F’s three-dimensional movement concept. Protected by an impressive sapphire dome, a one-minute flying tourbillon fitted with a cylindrical hairspring rises above a fumé dial through an opening at 12 o’clock. The 42mm case comes is steel. Several gradient dial versions (each limited to 15 pieces) are available. www.h-moser.com.
Quick facts: 42mm x 19.5mm – steel case – calibre HMC810, in-house automatic – hours, minutes and one-minute central flying tourbillon – alligator strap with steel folding buckle – limited editions of 15 pieces – CHF 79,000
Omega De Ville Tourbillon Master Chronometer
If Omega has made a name for itself with iconic sports watches, the brand occasionally releases stunning high-end complications. The new De Ville Tourbillon with a centrally-mounted Co-Axial tourbillon, a Master Chronometer (anti-magnetic) in-house movement is a great example of the Haute Horlogerie expertise of the brand. With the central tourbillon, the hands are mounted on sapphire discs. Visible via the caseback, the calibre features a mainplate and bridges made from 18k Sedna gold and superb high-end finishing. The 43mm case is made of a combination of two gold alloys. 18k Sedna Gold (the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy) is used for the lugs, bezel and caseback. 18k Canopus gold (the brand’s proprietary white gold alloy) is used for the central body, buckle logo and crown logo. www.omegawatches.com.
Quick facts: 43mm – Sedna gold and Canopus gold case – calibre Omega 2640, in-house – hand-wound – hours, minutes and one-minute central flying tourbillon – black alligator strap – CHF 162,750
Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription
The Tourbillon Souscription is an evolution and an improved version of Remy Cools (a young independent watchmaker) school watch. Fashioned out of steel, the case measures 40mm x 15mm. Visible under an impressive sapphire dome, the manual-winding movement is entirely handmade. The symmetrical architecture of the dial is built around an oversized one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock and off-centred hours and minutes indication at 12 o’clock. The two-part silver dial is finely micro-blasted, hand-engraved and circular-brushed at the periphery. These elements stand out from the movement with minimalistic but beautiful micro-blasted decoration and distinctive stepped bridges (inspired by Breguet and Daniels). At the back of the watch, two symmetrical flip-up keys allow you to wind the movement and to set the time. The Tourbillon Souscription is a limited production of nine watches only and it is available through a subscription program. www.remycools.com.
Quick facts: 40mm x 15mm – steel case – hand-wound in-house movement – hours, minutes and one-minute tourbillon – black alligator strap with steel pin buckle – limited edition of 9 pieces available on subscription – CHF 85,000