We’re right in the middle of what has become an important watch event of the year, a casual, relaxed fair that takes in the capital of watchmaking: Geneva Watch Days. One of the main actors of this show is Bulgari, and among the novelties of the Italian brand in the Finissimo range, there is a rather impressive 8-day Skeleton Octo Finissimo. So here we are with the new rose gold and brown dial editions of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic and Chronograph GMT. And that also means the discontinuation of one of our favourite early Octo Finissimo models…
All new models in the record-breaking Octo Finissimo collection were launched, at first, in sandblasted titanium with a tone-on-tone dial. This discreet, industrial and monochromatic design has become a signature element of the collection, with a matte finishing that makes them unique. Still, more materials and colours have been used over the years, such as stainless steel, ceramic and gold. Regarding the latter, one of our favourite models in the Octo Finissimo Automatic collection was the sandblasted 18k rose gold edition. I’m personally not a fan of gold watches, but this matte effect applied to the precious metal used for the case and bracelet, as well as the use of a matching dial, created a truly unique object without ostentation. Luminous but not shiny, luxurious but not showy. Something you should know is that the sandblasted 18k rose gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is no longer part of the collection and has been replaced, if you like, by one of the watches you’ll discover here.
Now, as part of the 2022 collection, Bulgari releases two new editions in rose gold of the Octo Finissimo based on the classic Automatic and the more complex Chronograph GMT. First of all, and important to know, is that these two watches are part of the so-called “S collection” and are thus more robust watches with increased water-resistance – something that is always appreciated. This might also explain why the production of the previous gold model has been stopped to make room for this new edition. Both watches also reflect the recent evolution regarding the finishing of the case. First tested on the S versions, the cases and bracelet get rid of the full-matte, entirely sandblasted finishing and now combine brushed and polished surfaces. Slightly less original, a bit more traditional, and in line with codes of the watchmaking industry, the effect of this finishing with gold is more luxurious, a bit more textured and provides a more dynamic and contrasting surface.
The Rose Gold Automatic
First in line, we have the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic with a 40mm case and bracelet in 18k rose gold. The case alternates between brushed surfaces – with the orientation of the brushing following the angles of the case – and polished accents. As mentioned, this watch is part of the S range, with a screw-down crown and 100m water-resistance. This meant having a slightly thicker (or less thin) case of 6.40mm instead of the 5.15mm height of the former version. Sapphire crystals are still present on both sides, one revealing the new sunray-brushed dark brown dial with gold-coloured markers and hands, the other one offering a view of the in-house automatic calibre BVL138. This 2.23mm thin movement with micro-rotor stores 60h of power reserve despite its thin profile.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Rose Gold and Brown dial (ref. 103637) is worn on a solid gold integrated bracelet and is now available from boutiques and online. The price is EUR 45,000.
Quick facts: 40mm x 6.40mm – 18k rose gold case, sapphire crystals on both sides – screw-down crown and 100m water-resistance – brushed brown dial with gold-coloured accents – calibre BVL138, automatic via micro-rotor, 21,600 vibrations/hour, 60h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds – 18k gold bracelet with folding clasp – ref. 103637 – EUR 45,000
The Rose Gold Chronograph
The second model to receive this warm treatment is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT. Again, its 43mm x 8.75mm case has been beefed up compared to the inaugural edition (which was 42mm x 6.90mm), now featuring a screw-down crown and 100m water-resistance. Here paired with a brown alligator leather strap, the case is finished with brushed surfaces and polished accents, enhancing the architectural, complex shape of the Octo collection. The brushed brown dial features luminous hands and applied markers in a gold tone, and all printings are executed in beige gold to match the case. This watch is powered by the in-house calibre BVL318, an automatic integrated chronograph with a peripheral rotor (the thinnest chrono ever) and features a horizontal clutch and a column wheel, but also a practical GMT function that can be adjusted by the pusher at 9 o’clock. The 55h power reserve is solid despite the thinness of the calibre.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Rose Gold Brown Dial (ref. 103468) is now available from boutiques and online. The price is EUR 36,000.
Quick facts: 43mm x 8.75mm – 18k rose gold case, sapphire crystals on both sides – screw-down crown and 100m water-resistance – brushed brown dial with gold-coloured accents – calibre BVL318, automatic chronograph with peripheral rotor, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 55h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds, GMT function, chronograph – brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle – ref. 103468 – EUR 36,000
For more details and orders, please visit bulgari.com.