Monochrome Watches
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The White Gold AP Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked 16204BC

The classic RO Jumbo case now in white gold and fitted with a handsome skeleton movement.

| By Brice Goulard | 3 min read |

Last week, we covered most of the new models introduced by Audemars Piguet, as part of the 2024 collection – which included a new ROO time-and-date, a handsome new alloy named Sand Gold and a striking collab watch with John Mayer. There is one watch that we’ve kept away for now, but it’s a stunner. Based on our all-time favourite, the Jumbo Extra-Thin case (the original Royal Oak…), AP is bringing a new version of the Extra-Thin Openworked in white gold (16204BC) with a sleek grey-on-grey colour scheme. 

The Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked reference 16204 was introduced as part of the 50th-anniversary collection in 2022, which included the all-important 16202ST, the revised version of the classic Jumbo. Basically an openworked version of the aforementioned model, the Jumbo Openworked brought back a concept that was launched for the model’s 40th anniversary, with the reference 15203PT, a 40-piece limited edition.

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Originally presented in steel with a monochromatic colour scheme for its skeletonized movement, yet contrasting hands and markers in pink gold, it was also presented in pink gold (16204OR) and later in yellow gold (16204BA). Now that the steel model (16204ST) isn’t available anymore, the only options for such a watch were luxurious and slightly flashy gold versions… But the white gold model here fills the void for a sleek, white metal version.

This new model is all about materials and colours. It is, other than these new specifications, identical to the steel model we’ve extensively reviewed here. In short, it is an openworked version of the RO Jumbo, with the exact same case dimensions (39mm x 8.1mm), the same bracelet, clasp and bezel and a movement that uses the same base too, that of the brand’s new standards for extra-thinness, the calibre 7121.

What changes is the use of white gold for the case (hence the BC in the ref. number), bezel, caseback and entire bracelet. White gold is always a material of choice for a Royal Oak, keeping things discreet and close to the original vision of the steel models, while adding a touch of luxury and some additional weight – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing in the context of an extra-thin model…

The reason why this new edition of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked feels like the most appealing version is all about the dial and the contrasts. The original steel model, with its light grey dial and contrasting pink gold hands/markers, was maybe a bit too shy and not the easiest to read. Now fitted with a black inner bezel, a darker coating on the movement and white gold hands, not only do we have a desirable monochromatic grey-on-grey look but also a better contrast benefitting legibility.

Inside the case, visible on both sides of the watch, is the calibre 7124, developed in parallel with the 7121 of the classic closed-dial Jumbo. The 2.7mm thin Calibre 7124 – thinner than the one used in the 16202ST, due to the removal of the date mechanism – boasts 57 hours of power reserve despite a higher frequency than its predecessor, at 4Hz. It is equipped with a contemporary slim oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings, offering bidirectional winding. Finished by hand to high standards, this movement reveals no fewer than 324 polished V angles. The geometric spider-web effect is striking. The back shows a classic AP-shaped rotor.

Worn on a classic RO bracelet in white gold, closed by a folding clasp, this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked 39mm white gold 16204BC is released as part of the permanent collection. While not limited in numbers, its production will remain quite confidential. It is priced at USD 124,100. For more details, please visit

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