Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

5 Cool Finds – Two Icons from Rolex and Omega, an analogue computer from Heuer, a gracious German dress watch from GO and a stylish luxury diver from Ulysse Nardin

| By Ilias Giannopoulos | 10 min read |

To follow up with the series started a month ago, we continue this week with the fourth instalment of our market finds, in collaboration with auctioneer Catawiki. Once again, the story is simple. Instead of focusing exclusively on vintage watches, we prefer to look at what we, here at Monochrome-Watches love and know, and we think will be the coming trend: Youngtimers – and with from time to time an exception to the rule, when a vintage watch deserves to be listed. Here is our expert Ilias’ selection of 5 pieces, including two sports icons from Rolex and Omega, a refined Glashütte Original, an unusual vintage Heuer and a highly interesting Ulysse Nardin.

Rolex Submariner Date, two-tone

The Submariner from Rolex is the definition of the word iconic, in the watch world. Quite simply, if there is only one diver watch you must own, it should be the Submariner. Maybe we can push it a little bit further without the danger to become dramatic. Actually if there is a single watch, an only watch, a unique wristwatch that one can own, this might be the Submariner. Actually for many people, when they think Submariner, they think ultimate watch. You see, it has it all. It is rugged, waterproof, it has a great pedigree and it is a Rolex, so it is luxurious too.

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The Submariner model went into production in 1953 and was showcased at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. Quite quickly, we had three references available. These were Submariner reference 6200 with a water resistance of 200 meters, the Submariner reference 6204 with a 100-meter water resistance and the Submariner reference 6205 with a water resistance of 100 meters. Right from the start, this model created a stir. After all, it came from a company that had the primacy regarding waterproof watches. Despite the fact that another legendary model was the first modern diver watch, it was Rolex with this model that changed the rules of the game.

True to her reputation the company continued to upgrade and improve the Submariner. Within a few years, Rolex revised its Submariner line, producing the 6536 (small crown) and 6538 (oversized crown) followed by the 5508 (small crown) and 5510 (large crown) models. The 5512 (chronometer version) and 5513 (non-chronometer) trailed, marking a significant change in the appearance of the popular Rolex design. “Shoulders” were added to the crown side of the case to provide protection for the winding/setting mechanism. The 5513 was produced from 1962 up until 1990 (!), being one of the longest continually produced references in the company’s history. Reference 5512 was produced during its lifetime with four different calibers. Both of these models had acrylic crystals and the famous oyster bracelet and arguably are considered the references that helped built the company’s reputation.

From that point onward, every Submariner became a classic status symbol. The first Submariner Date debuted in 1965 as Ref. 1680. In 1986, sapphire crystal and the caliber 3035 were added to the watch, creating the Ref. 16800. Then in 1988, with the addition of the caliber 3135, the Submariner Date became the Ref. 16610. Rolex’s first two tone Submariner debuted in 1984 as Ref. 16803, however what we propose here is updated with the 31-jewel calibre 3135, one of the most reliable and robust movements ever created.

This Rolesor Sub, meaning the combination of steel and 18K yellow gold, exceptionally balances these two metals creating a result that is very pleasing to the eye. The dial is absolutely gorgeous. Nothing is out of proportion. Also, it must be noted that this Submariner has a Swiss only dial and it is an A-Series watch. Watches with these dials were the first produced as a transitional when Rolex replaced the tritium with luminova so the “T<25” marking was no longer required. By 2000 “SWISS” had become “SWISS MADE.” This Submariner is perfect since it is luxurious, robust, and very well balanced overall – and is a rare edition too. It is offered with box and papers, and it is listed here.

Heuer Calculator

Heuer is a legendary company, especially well-known for its sports chronographs and for timing major sporting events, especially in the field of motorsports. Edouard Heuer founded Heuer Watch Company in 1860.  He opened a watchmaking workshop in St-Imier, a village in the Swiss Jura region.  Heuer watches soon became recognized for a high level of accuracy and workmanship.  Perfect to time sport events, Heuer soon found its niche.

5 cool finds - Heuer Calculator Calibre 12 - Catawiki - 1

The watch offered here is named the Calculator, and was produced in 1972. This line of watches targeted professional users. They were big – and wear big, at 45mm in diameter and 15.5mm thick (that as huge at that time). This chronograph has a two-register subdial layout and is powered by an automatic calibre. The design is purely 70’s. You’ll mostly find black dial Calculators with and without orange accents (The later in our case), but Heuer also produced a blue dial version. Despite its size, and the characteristic layout of the crown and pushers (the crown on the off side of the case to the pushers) due to the automatic Calibre 12, the most important element of the watch was the incorporation of a slide rule on its bezel.

The slide rule was analogue computing at its finest and was a product of an era where people did not have smartphones, loaded with applications. It was used primarily for multiplication and division, and also for functions such logarithms and trigonometry. Slide rules existed in a diverse range of styles and generally appeared in a linear or circular form (as in our case) with a standardized set of markings (scales) essential to performing mathematical computations. Slide rules manufactured for specialized fields such as aviation or finance typically featured additional scales, which helped in calculations.

The calculator is hugely impressive, offering enough “vintage” appeal, but at the same time having a contemporary size, sitting at 45mm. Also, it is an excellent conversation starter and why not a cool analogue gadget to impress your friends, while it comes from a company with a great pedigree in the creation of chronographs and tool watches in general. It is offered with papers and it is in good overall condition – it is listed here… A good opportunity to own something different, with a great movement and aura.

Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow – 2006

The Omega Speedmaster is perhaps the most iconic chronograph of all time. It could well be the most important wristwatch of all time, since its role in humankind’s attempts to reach to the moon is well recorded – and that makes the Speedie, as called by collectors, extremely popular. However, the Speedmaster was not created for equipping astronauts and American pilots. It was created as a motorsport-racing chronograph.

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From that point the Speedmaster transformed, becoming what we all know and love. Different hands, cases and several calibers were offered. However, the “broad arrow” hands and the overall look of the archetypal version still is very popular among watch lovers. Therefore, Omega produced versions with stylistic changes in order to honor the birth of this iconic chronograph. This specific Speedmaster is one of them.

This Broad Arrow has a classic 42mm steel case, a white dial (not common for Speedmasters), while the Omega logo has been applied. We can observe wonderful blue hands and indexes. It is powered by the automatic 3303 movement, which has been chronometer certified. The hands of the watch refer to the very first Broad Arrow Speedmaster of 1957, the CK2915. Besides that, the watch has the wording ‘Automatic Chronometer’ on the dial. If you want a classic Speedmaster that is reminiscent of the archetype creation, but with modern details and an automatic calibre with a date, please look no further (the item is listed here). The opportunity to have the icon, without having the same as all collectors.

Glashütte Original Sixties Senator

Glashütte Original is a German prestige and luxury watchmaking company founded in 1994 by the privatization of VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). GUB was an East German conglomerate formed in 1951, uniting the watch companies based in Glashütte. This included A. Lange & Söhne, founded in 1845, and now owned by Richemont. Glashütte Original is one of the few watchmakers that uses its own movements, and has 10 proprietary movement innovations.

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Although we tend to know Glashutte for its complicated and very Teutonic creations, here we have a very stylish dress watch, with the right vintage appeal. It has a sleek 39 mm x 9.4 mm polished stainless steel case and a domed sapphire crystal and domed dial. The hands are made of yellow gold and feature luminous paint for nighttime legibility. Inside the Glashutte Original Sixties ticks the manufacture calibre 39-52, an automatic movement with 40-hour power-reserve and a rotor featuring a gold mass and the typical double G shape. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and a stop second. The movement is visible through an impressive domed sapphire caseback.

For someone who wants an immaculate looking dress watch, with exemplary construction, an in-house calibre and a pedigree that few other non-Swiss companies can boast, this Senator model from Glashutte Original is an excellent choice. Its condition is excellent; it represents outstanding value for money and comes with a box. You can see the auction here.

Ulysse Nardin Black Ocean Maxi Marine Limited Edition

The purpose of the Cool finds articles is to propose you, our reader and potential customer, a selection of cool watches that we think deserve a closer look. During the course of these articles and up to now, we showed to you all kinds of cool vintage and modern pieces. The watch we are going to present surely is rated as one of the coolest timepieces for sale.

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We wrote it before and we will write it yet again: Ulysse Nardin is a company that is too underrated. However it belongs to a very small club of companies that have shown through time an exemplary way of thinking, with innovation and radical design. Their products balance extremely well between art and function and also each and every one incorporate very interesting technological solutions.

For instance in 2012 innovation came with the launch of the Marine Chronometer Manufacture with its in-house developed and conceived basis caliber UN-118. In 2013, we witnessed the launch of 5 in-house calibers. Entirely developed and conceived by the company, highlighting a commitment to independently manufactured movements. While in 2014, we saw the launch of the 6th in-house developed and manufactured movement: the UN-334 for Dual Time with fast time-zone and date settings. This company never ceases to amaze.

The watch for sale here is a limited and numbered edition of 1846 pieces worldwide paying tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich history with the sea. After all, the timepieces of the Marine collection are the ultimate expression of technical performance and beautiful design. This model has a diameter of 42,7mm with a thickness of 12,5mm. It has a case and bezel treated with Black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating offering extreme protection from scratches. The black dial has a wave design with black rimmed applied hour markers and skeleton hands which are filled with a dark grey luminous material. There’s also a power reserve indicator at 12 and a magnified date window and small seconds sub-dial at 6. Small seconds hand, power reserve hand and indications as well as the 1846 text are in red. The UN Caliber UN-26, which beats at 28,800 vph & has an approximate power reserve of 42 hours. The rotor has a ruthenium finish & is visible through the case back. Last but not least, the watch comes with a black rubber strap with 2 integrated black ceramic elements engraved with the words “LIMITED EDITION” on one of the elements and the brand name and logo on the other. The watch is 200m water resistant. This watch is the opportunity to have a piece from an excellent and reputable watchmaker, with great pedigree and upper quality, without the look of mainstream brands. Bold and cool, and listed here.

To see more watch auctions, keep an eye on Catawiki. Every week a few new auctions start and mainly the “men’s luxury watches auction” comprises the most interesting lots.

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