The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat, now in Platinum

Ever since the return of the brand under the umbrella of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (alongside Gerald Genta), Daniel Roth has focused on bringing back the emblematic ellipsocurvex design of Monsieur Roth, as well as the refined execution of earlier creations. Following the debut of the Tourbillon model, available in yellow and rose gold, as well as platinum, Daniel Roth focused on the essentials with the Extra-Plat, a thin, elegant time-only model with handsome hand-wound movement. Walking in the footsteps of its more complex sister, the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat is now also available in a monochromatic platinum and anthracite version.

Putting aside the complex and highly decorated Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton released earlier this year – which is essentially the same watch with an openworked movement – the platinum edition of the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat closes the trilogy for this model, following the Yellow Gold Souscription and the Rose Gold version. Compared to the two previous editions, most of the specifications remain unchanged. It is a matter of materials and colours. But this can have a greater impact than expected.

While the first two editions were bright and relatively striking, due to their colour combinations, the new Extra-Plat Platinum feels far more muted and subtle, thanks to its very monochrome colour scheme – our favourite so far, as you can imagine, given the name of this magazine. Personal considerations aside, we’re looking at the same double-ellipse-shaped (or ellipsocurvex) case measuring 38.6mm in length and 35.5mm in width, but now crafted from the noblest of materials: platinum. With an overall thickness of 7.7mm, the DR Extra-Plat is slightly larger and thicker than the original Extra Plat Automatic reference C107, but remains a fantastically elegant time-only watch, with its own character. Sapphire crystals frame the case.

To complement the cold tone of platinum, Daniel Roth went for the same colour scheme as used on the Tourbillon version, with anthracite and black elements. Contrary to the yellow gold edition (Clous de Paris guilloché) but identical to the rose gold model, the solid gold dial is adorned with a pinstripe guilloché pattern (guilloché en ligne, in French), a classic style once used by Daniel Roth himself, now done internally at La Fabrique du Temps. The hour chapter ring, also in gold, is here finished in silver to match the case, with a filet sauté border and black typography. The gold hands for the hours and minutes (no seconds) are rendered in black, resulting in an overall quiet presence.

Under the sapphire back is the calibre DR002, a hand-wound movement developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the men at the helm of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Modern regarding its specifications – 4Hz frequency, free-sprung balance wheel, 65h power reserve – the movement is, however, traditional in its execution. Retaining the distinctive visual style of the calibre DR001 Tourbillon, it is finished with hand-polished bevels with bercé (domed) profile, sharp internal angles, black polished steel parts, thin Geneva stripes, perlage, polished countersinks and bevelled spokes on the wheels.

Worn on a light-tan leather strap, the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Platinum is now available from the brand and its retailers. It is not a limited edition by number, but by production capacities. It is priced at CHF 65,000 (excl. taxes). For more details, please visit www.danielroth.com.