The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual
A resurection of the Danish watchmaker, overseen by Kari Voutilainen.

A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, the official return of Urban Jürgensen under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen, something we announced about 4 years ago already. But it’s now official; Urban Jürgensen is back under the ownership of an American family of devoted watch collectors and a small group of investors. And the new collection, consisting of three impressive watches mixing technical highlights and heritage, is what we’ll be talking about now. Meet the new Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual.
Background
As for the history of Urban Jürgensen, we invite you to pour yourself a coffee and take a look at this in-depth article, summarising over 250 years of what has been a fascinating saga of watchmaking, full of ups and downs, and involving some of the greatest names of horology, past and present.
Let’s talk about the present and future. Up until 2021, Urban Jürgensen was under the control of Danish private equity investors and directed by Søren Petersen, an equally Danish watch collector and businessman. The brand, while back in the hands of fellow Dans, was headquartered in Switzerland. Yet, the situation wasn’t perfect and the brand had to face some troubles (again…) But that’s when the Rosenfield family enters the equation. These Americans, together with a small group of strategic investors, set about faithfully returning Urban Jürgensen to its roots. This was in 2021, and the investors already announced back then that Kari Voutilainen, the acclaimed independent watchmaker, would become co-CEO and in charge of the conception and manufacturing of the watches.

Kari, himself of Scandinavian origins, is no stranger to Urban Jürgensen. He worked with Pratt and Baumberger, first by finishing dials for the brand. It is also important to note that his time working together with the two owners of UJ strongly influenced his later work under his eponymous name, with distinctive design elements later found in his watches, such as the open-tip hands, the teardrop lugs or the guilloché dials. More importantly, Voutilainen will be involved in what is possibly the most important watch of the modern era of Urban Jürgensen, the Oval Pocket Watch. Back in 2005, initially created by Derek Pratt during his tenure as Urban Jürgensen’s technical director, he wanted to create his magnum opus, and it took over two decades for him to complete the watch. Due to his illness, Baumberger handed over the assembly and finishing of the watch as a kit of parts to Kari Voutilainen, who completed the famous work.

Back in 2025, Urban Jürgensen is about to rise again. Co-CEO Voutilainen will be assisted by Alex Rosenfield, who represents the family and also serves as Co-CEO with expertise in fashion, media, and marketing.
The 2025 Urban Jürgensen Collection
What to expect from Urban Jürgensen, Kari Voutilainen and the Rosenfield family for this 2025 return? Three watches, all built around a consistent design, crafted traditionally – what else would you expect with such a name on the dial and Kari behind the conception? – with complex hand-finished movements, guilloche dials and a vision of bringing the heritage of the brand into classic, contemporary wristwatches. The watches are made by blending “Danish design and Swiss craftsmanship,” says Alex Rosenfield. As for Kari, he emphasises the need to respect “the pursuit of excellence that Urban himself set in motion centuries ago, just as he was coming of age during the golden era of marine chronometry – a time when accuracy was paramount for navigation and scientific advancement.”
This isn’t an easy task, though, considering the influence of the brand, which has know two golden ages, under Urban Jürgensen himself, as well as the time when Baumberger and Pratt were taking care of it. That being said, for Voutilainen, it “feels like coming home. The brand played a crucial role in my early career.” Indeed, his work at UJ, besides the Oval, included mechanical work, assembly, prototyping, creating unique pieces, and providing after-sales service.
The 2025 collection, which marks the return of UJ, comprises three mechanically complex timepieces, yet with classic, streamlined designs that don’t expose the complexity of the movements. It includes the UJ-1 Tourbillon, an anniversary watch that serves as a bridge between the past and the future, the UJ-2, a classic time-only (three-hander) hand-wound watch with double wheel natural escapement (something familiar to Kari) and the UJ-3, a perpetual calendar that built on the same hand-wound, natural escapement movement, and that somehow feels as continuity to neo-vintage watches such as the Reference 2. For now, the signature detent escapement, which was developed by Pratt and Mojon and found in the P8 calibre, isn’t set to return.
All three new Urban Jürgensen watches share the same overall design, with a newly designed case that somehow gets rid of the traditional cues of the past, such as the teardrop lugs. Well, in a way, as Kari explained to us that the surprising, polarising lugs on this new case are actually a reinterpretation of the teardrop lugs, just rotated 90 degrees and made sharper. In the same vein, all dials are done in sterling silver and hand-guilloché with Clous de Paris and Grain d’orge patterns (again, a speciality of Voutilainen), with off-centred indications materialised by precious metal tracks. The movements are also an ode to the past, with their matte decoration and gold-plated surfaces, as well as a treatment of the bridges that will either echo antique pocket watch movement, or more importantly, the movement of the Oval that Kari once helped to complete.
All watches are made in Biel, Switzerland, under the direction of Voutilainen’s daughter, Venla. Regarding distribution, the new UJ watches will be available directly from the brand, either in limited numbers or in small quantities, due to the long manufacturing process. But let’s now look at these watches in detail.
The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon
The first and main introduction for the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen is this UJ-1 model, the most complex of them all, and yet possibly the most discreet and classic of the trio. But what matters most is that this wristwatch has to be considered as a contemporary revisit of the famous Oval pocket watch started by Pratt and finished by Voutilainen, specifically on the back with a movement that incorporates both technical and aesthetic similarities.
It all starts with a relatively compact case of 39.5mm, with a thickness of 12.2mm. If the lug-to-lug isn’t mentioned, we can clearly expect it to be on the short side, given the shape of the lugs. As said, these are modern reinterpretations of the classic Jürgensen teardrop lug, with a bolder, more graphic shape. The case is equipped with a stepped bezel, featuring both satin-finished and polished elements. The back is finely finished with a grain d’orge hand-guilloche pattern, showing the dedication to fine, even non-visible details.
The dial of the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon is surely on the discreet side, yet also finely detailed. The base, made of solid sterling silver, is hand-guilloche with linear grain d’orge in the centre and clous de Paris for the small seconds, classically positioned at 6 o’clock. A peripheral chapter ring surrounds the dial with discreet, small (too small maybe) Roman numerals, except for the zero. A pair of open-tip hands indicates the time, while the rest of the dial incorporates a small seconds and a power reserve. All the tracks are applied and made of satin-finished silver or gold.
Three editions of the UJ-1 Tourbillon are released immediately at launch time. The first (UJ-1-PT-S-001) combines a platinum case with a silver-toned dial, as well as flame-blued hands. The second model (UJ-1-PT-G-001) also uses platinum for the case but features a dark grey dial for more contrast with the silver-toned tracks, chapter ring and hands. Finally, the third model (UJ-1-RG-S-001) is made of rose gold, paired with a silver-toned dial and rose gold tracks and hands. All three are worn on hand-stitched, ethically-sourced alligator leather with soft calfskin lining, closed by a pin buckle.
Let’s now move to the main interest here, the movement. While the exterior elements of the watch are discreet, the movement is beautifully demonstrative – what else would you expect from Kari and UJ…? Made in-house and developed by Voutilainen, the calibre UJ-1 miniaturises and adapts a version of the legendary Pratt’s oval pocket watch movement into a wristwatch. This large calibre is built around 3 aligned elements: a flying barrel that seems to float above the movement, a large central bridge with pillars, and the regulating organ… But not any kind of regulator. This UJ-1, just like the oval, has a one-minute tourbillon equipped with a remontoir d’égalité (a constant force device) inside the carriage – the oval was the first movement to be equipped with this. It beats at 18,000 vibrations/hour, and the remontoir delivers the energy to the escapement once per second. This was important for the owners and Voutilainen to bring back the memory of this spectacular watch to the wrist.
The movement is beautifully finished, yet maybe in a less demonstrative way than what you can see on Kari’s own calibres. The plates and bridges have an antique pocket watch feel, with their grenage surface and a rose gold plating. All elements are dome-bevelled by hand, including the spectacular central bridge with its gold chaton. All wheels are satin-polished with chamfered spokes, and the screw-heads are mirror-polished. The large flying barrel is equipped with a Geneva stop-work and delivers 47h of power reserve. The regulator is a Swiss lever, paired with a balance wheel with micrometric timing screws and hairspring with Phillips terminal curve. And a fine detail, the power reserve indicator is driven by a conical element.
Each of the three editions of the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon is limited to 25 pieces and priced at CHF 368,000 excluding VAT.
Quick facts: 39.5mm x 12.2mm – polished and satin-finished 950 platinum or 18k rose gold case, stepped polished bezel, reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, sapphire crystals front and back, hand-guilloche back with Grain d’orge pattern, 30m water-resistant – solid silver dial, hand-guilloche (grain d’orge and clous de Paris), applied tracks in silver or rose gold, flame-blued or gold open-tip hands – in-house calibre UJ-1, rose gold-plated, 30mm x 8.17mm, 32 jewels, one-minute tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité constant force, flying barrel, Swiss lever escapement, 18,000vph, 47h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds – alligator strap with pink buckle – UJ-1-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial), UJ-1-PT-G-001 (platinum, grey dial), UJ-1-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial) – each limited to 25 pieces – CHF 368,000 excluding VAT
The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 Three-Hand
The second watch to be unveiled in this inaugural collection, the Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, is a classic high-end time-only watch and represents the purest expression of the design language and mechanical philosophy of the new UJ. Yet, the reverse side once again reveals a complex movement that features some impressive technical tricks to enhance chronometry.
The UJ-2 is in the vein of many recent three-handers by independent watchmakers. Not entirely a dress watch, visually classic yet lavishly finished… with the price to match. It starts with the same overall case design with a stepped bezel and reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, only made slightly smaller at 39mm in diameter and 10.9mm in thickness. Again, the lugs are short and should offer great comfort on the wrist, even though the result is a watch that feels a bit wide and tall. Again, the caseback is decorated with a hand-guilloche pattern, circling the sapphire crystal revealing the movement.
As for the dial, the Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 breaks a bit the almost calvinist symmetry and discretion of the UJ-1 with a slightly off-centred display. Not only is the small second sub-dial placed at 4:30, but the central axis of the hands is also positioned slightly up on the dial. Two applied tracks in silver or gold and several textures – smooth central part, grain d’orge on the periphery, clous de Paris for the seconds – also animate the dial with interconnected lines. A power reserve completes the display at 12 o’clock, but is not driven by a conical mechanism this time. Four combinations will be available: UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial), UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, blue dial), UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial) and UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, blue dial), paired with either blued, rose gold or rhodium-toned hands. All are worn on the same alligator strap as mentioned above.
Under the sapphire back is a movement that has been designed to feel as sourced from a pocket watch, with a distinctive shape for the bridges. The hand-wound, in-house calibre UJ-2 is a large movement measuring 30mm, with the signature decoration of the brand: grenage finish, gold-plated bridges, domed polished bevels, including sharp internal anglage, and fine details on the wheels and screws. With its large single barrel, this movement running at a 2.5Hz frequency stores about 52 hours of power reserve.
Besides the look and finish, this movement is also distinguished by its use of a complex regulating organ. The large screwed free-sprung balance is connected to a system dear Kari Voutilainen, the double wheel natural escapement. It has been adapted to UJ’s needs in order to create a base movement that can layer complications (more on that in a bit). This escapement was first imagined by Breguet and then rediscovered by friends Daniels and Pratt, the latter incorporating it in a pocket watch movement in the late 1990s. Its significance lies in how it addresses the age-old challenge of reducing friction while achieving the optimal transfer of energy efficiently and precisely within a mechanical watch. This lubrication-free system delivers a direct impulse to the balance through an impulse roller, achieving up to 30% more power efficiency than a traditional Swiss lever escapement while enhancing stability and longevity. The hairspring features an overcoil and Grossmann inner curve, just like in Voutilainen’s own watches.
The four models that compose the Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 are not limited, but production will remain quite confidential. All are priced at CHF 105,000 excluding VAT.
Quick facts: 39mm x 10.9mm – polished and satin-finished 950 platinum or 18k rose gold case, stepped polished bezel, reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, sapphire crystals front and back, hand-guilloche back with Grain d’orge pattern, 30m water-resistant – solid silver dial, hand-guilloche (grain d’orge and clous de Paris), applied tracks in silver or rose gold, flame-blued or gold open-tip hands – in-house calibre UJ-2, rose gold-plated, 30mm x 5.5mm, 32 jewels, free-sprung balance with direct double wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds – UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial), UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, blue dial), UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial), UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, blue dial) – alligator strap with pink buckle – CHF 105,000 excluding VAT
The Urban Jürgensen UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar
Last but not least, Urban Jürgensen also launches the UJ-3, a perpetual calendar watch conceived by Kari Voutilainen and independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. You can see this watch as the successor to the Reference 2, only now with multiple mechanical refinements in its movement.
The case design is shared with the two aforementioned UJ-1 and UJ-2, only here with more heft due to the presence of a QP complication. The case, available in 950 platinum or 18k rose gold, measures 39mm in diameter but is now 13.9mm in thickness. The reinterpreted teardrop lug, the stepped bezel and guilloche caseback are all identical to the two models above. As for the dial, the only option available for now is a black guilloché silver base, paired with gold hands that match the colour of the case metal.
Thanks to a clever use of guilloché (circular grain d’orge, straight grain d’orge, clous de Paris and sauté-piqué) and despite the monochromatic tone of the dial, the display remains rather legible and straightforward. The date is positioned at 4:30 around the small seconds, while two apertures are placed just above the central axis of the dial, next to the 3 and 9 o’clock hour markers. A moon phase complication balances the position of the small seconds/date on the lower half, and UJ deliberately placed the leap year indication (not something you use regularly) on the movement side.
The mechanical base of the Urban Jürgensen UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar is identical to the UJ-2, with the same hand-wound calibre architecture and the double wheel natural escapement. The main difference lies in what’s on top of the movement, but not as a module, as the perpetual calendar functions are integrated into the movement. All indications are paired with an instantaneous jump mechanism, and the moon indication is a classic Strehler style with a precision of one day deviation every 14,000 years – licensed here for the first time in a serially produced watch. The back reveals the same highly vintage-looking and beautifully decorated movement as the UJ-2, with the addition of the leap year over one of the bridges.
The Urban Jürgensen UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar is not limited, but production will remain quite confidential. Both editions are priced at CHF 168,000 excluding VAT.
Quick facts: 39mm x 13.9mm – polished and satin-finished 950 platinum or 18k rose gold case, stepped polished bezel, reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, sapphire crystals front and back, hand-guilloche back with Grain d’orge pattern, 30m water-resistant – solid silver dial, hand-guilloche (circular grain d’orge, sauté-piqué and clous de Paris), applied tracks in silver or rose gold, gold open-tip hands – in-house calibre UJ-3 integrated perpetual calendar, 30mm x 8.1mm, 42 jewels, free-sprung balance with direct double wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar instantaneous jump mechanism at midnight for the indications and the moon, leap year indicator on the movement – UJ-3-PT-B-001 (platinum, black dial), UJ-3-RG-B-001 (rose gold, black dial) – alligator strap with pink buckle – CHF 168,000 excluding VAT
For more details, please visit urbanjurgensen.com.
12 responses
This is ridiculous. He killed the brand for over a year, and brought it back with designs that do not have the soul of Urban Jurgensen at all! Not to mention insane pricing! I was hoping he’d preserve the original design language as it really made UJ stand out.
Do you use calipers on these watches when you give the dimensions? These look far thicker than advertised. Massively thicker comes to mind…
@Joe Smith – for this, no we didn’t measure the watches ourselves but used the dimensions given to us by the brand. But having seen the watches, the shape of the case is indeed a bit misleading, but I’m rather sure that the thickness indicated is the reality.
Pre owned UJ still command hefty prices on the used market, judging from the latest releases it will continue to be this way for a while. Old models are a lot more elegant in my humble opinion
Though mechanically splendid, I am not a fan of these new design languages.
I guess there is a market for these watches, but the pricing is just insane. It puts it into categories that it really doesn’t have the brand equity against. Like the look, but for the price, would never touch these.
I can buy a lot of Breguets for that money. I think these are fashion objects for the uneducated segment of the 0.001%.
For that budget I’ll get myself a collection of BREGUET watches 🙂
Actually they are high quality fit and finish good looking watches. Apparently beauty is in the eyes of the beholder still stands. My only and only issue would be with the massive center of the date and second hands. A little diet there and this perpetual would be a perfect watch, to me anyway.
You also lose the minutes register from 20 after until 30 due to the date wheel.
Very disappointed. No longer “understated ,pure class, “but rather”I can afford one- and you can’t “ – the subtlety of the brand has disappeared .
As above