Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Summer-Ready Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT Purple
The greatest summer combination, now in a playful colour.
We’ve said it on many occasions, the combination of a dive watch with a GMT function is possibly the best summer watch you can get. Capable of tracking multiple time zones while also able to withstand aquatic activities, these watches are the all-rounders you should consider. In this field, where not so many watches are available (to our surprise), Vulcain has adapted a GMT function to its cool, vintage-inspired and fairly priced Skindiver. And to make it even more summer-ready, it now comes in a playful version, the Skindiver Nautique GMT Purple.
It’s rather surprising to see that the combination of diving credentials with a traveller’s function has only recently spread across the industry. While being undoubtedly very practical, there aren’t dozens of alternatives around, but let me give you some recent introductions in a fairly accessible price range: the Seiko 1968 Heritage SPB519, the Longines HydroConquest GMT, the Doxa SUB 250T GMT, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT, the Certina DS Action GMT, the Mido Ocean Star GMT and, if you increase a bit the budget, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Recently, Vulcain expanded its Skindiver Nautique collection by adding a GMT complication, while retaining its diving capacities. And now, to make it even cooler, there’s this matte purple edition.
First released with a classic black dial (with the option for white or beige markers), the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT has all the ingredients of the genre. Vintage-inspired, the case is nicely proportioned, measuring 38.3mm in diameter and a reasonable 12.2mm in thickness. The case is classic Skindiver, meaning unprotected crown and slim lugs. The crown and caseback are screw-down type, offering a comfortable 200m water-resistance. The dial is protected by a retro-styled double-domed sapphire crystal.
The main transformation consists of the addition of a 24-hour scale to the bezel, which is now made of black polished ceramic and is bidirectional. In this context, the emphasis is placed on the travelling function, at the cost of the diving credentials, the 60-minute scale being out. Some brands choose to retain the diving scale and position the 24-hour scale on the dial. To each his own.
Talking about the dial, the cool factor here comes from the colour, a matte purple that won’t reduce contrast but will add a touch of fun. It is paired here with white prints and lumed hour markers – no option for vintage-toned markers is available. The hands are classic batons with lume inserts, and the GMT function relies on an independent, arrow-shaped hand picked out in red. We’re looking at an office-style GMT, not the more advanced flyer-style. A date window sits at 3 o’clock with a metal frame and a white disc.
Inside the case is the Soprod C125 GMT, an alternative to the ETA 2893 and Sellita SW330. The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT Purple is available on a black Tropic-style rubber strap for EUR 2,040 or a single-link steel bracelet with micro-adjustment for EUR 2,320. For more details, please visit vulcain.ch.
3 responses
I looked at the regular diver once. A very solid, no nonsene watch. What I disliked eventually: No lume on the seconds hand, nor on the bezel. So if you really thought about diving with it, that is not only a deficiency, it is a no-go. With this model at least the seconds hand, for historical reasons, continues with not being lumed. The bezel equally looks not being loomed. Should be improved.
The metallic date window surround looks tacky, shiny and cheap. The seconds hand looks generic, and lost at sea, design wise – it could have been red like the GMT hand, and that would have looked better. Does the crown logo align parallel with the bezel once it is in its locked position? I doubt it does. Glass case back ? No, I don’t think they considered that, and that is another missed opportunity to add some more visual interest to the watch.
@Emilio, a Soprod C125 GMT doesn’t really look all that appealing. A glass caseback would make the watch visually less appealing in my opinion. How can one know if they considered it? You can’t. Contrary to your assumption I’m going to assume they did indeed consider it and chose a different route.
Making the seconds hand the same colour as the GMT hand makes no sense. The GMT hand should be clearly different from all the other hands, to make it easier to read.
You’re expecting the crown to line up perfectly, on a 2k watch? Not even Rolex gets that right. Unfair expectation and you’ll be hard pressed to find a watch meeting that.
It seems to me like you’re just bashing this watch for the sake of bashing and to look interesting. It just makes you look like a bore.