Presented in 2017, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is, undeniably, one of the most elegant and balanced watches in Vacheron Constantin‘s slightly modern collection – the more classic watches are grouped under the Traditionnelle collection. Mainly characterised by its display combining a retrograde date and a moon indicator, this watch, previously available in pink or white gold, now joins Vacheron’s full-platinum family. Let’s look at the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine.
The concept behind the Collection Excellence Platine is pretty simple yet exceptionally executed. Take one of VC’s classic watches and make it the most high-end possible, visually monochromatic but also very sleek. As indicated by its name, this collection is all about platinum, which can be found on the case (obviously) but also on the dial and the thread used for the strap – which is always blue, the best match with the cold hue of platinum. Already seen in multiple watches from the permanent collection, such as the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar or the Patrimony Hand-Wound, it is time for the handsome and balanced Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date to go platinum.
Following the codes dictated by previous editions in this higher-end collection, the new Moon Phase Retrograde Date Excellence Platine sees its case made of 950 platinum, while keeping its relatively large 42.5mm diameter and smooth bezel. The case is entirely polished and features short, sloped lugs. An elegant watch with modern proportions.
The use of platinum doesn’t stop here. More original, the curved, convex dial is also made of 950 platinum and receives a sandblasted surface, which gives the watch a strong monochromatic look and an unusual shimmering metallic feel to this dial. As always with this collection, the “Pt950” hallmark is engraved at 4:30. Other elements of the dial, the hands, applied markers and dots for the “pearl” minute track, are all made of 18k white gold – except the date hand, which is blued steel.
The main attraction of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is its display. The lower part comprises a classic precision moon phase (one correction required every 122 years) at 6 o’clock, with its disc also made of 950 platinum and engraved to show the moon and stars. The upper half of the dial is framed by a semi-circular date track, with a retrograde indication. Balanced and elegant, this display has been retained in this Excellence Platine edition.
To complement the extensive use of platinum, the best colour is certainly blue, which is used here for the strap in Mississippiensis alligator leather. Platinum is also used here, as the thread to finish the strap is a combination of 950 platinum and silk. It is closed by a folding clasp with a half Maltese cross-shaped buckle.
Powering this Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Excellence Platine is the in-house calibre 2460 R31L, certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. This movement features automatic winding with a 22k gold oscillating weight and fine decoration of all the parts. It runs at 4Hz, with a relatively short power reserve of 40 hours. All the operations are performed via the crown: winding, date correction, moon-phase adjustment and time-setting.
Price and availability
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is a limited edition of 50 pieces, available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. It will be priced at EUR 72,500 (incl. taxes), versus EUR 44,300 in gold. More details at www.vacheron-constantin.com.