The URWERK UR-220 RG, The Latest… and Last of the Series (Live Pics & Price)

The antithesis of a demure swan song, URWERK bids a fond farewell to the last actor in its 220 collection, with a model that could be the star of a Miami Vice episode adapted to the watch world. Evoking the exuberant vibe of the 1980s, the UR-220 RG is dressed in red gold paired with a white rubber strap ensuring that the last episode of the UR-220 series goes out with a bang.

The Lead-Up

Just two years ago, Urwerk said goodbye to the UR-210, the progenitor of the UR-220. A compendium of what the brand stands for, the UR-210 combined the signature hour satellites with a large retrograde minute hand bearing the hour module. Flying back from 60 to 0 with a loud “clack”, the minute hand signalled the beginning of each hour. The UR-210, which was released in 2012, was also equipped with a patented winding efficiency indicator allowing you to select the strength of winding depending on your activity. 

Much to the relief of Urwerkians, there was a successor to the UR-210 presented a few months after it was discontinued. The heir apparent was the UR-220 with similar wandering hours and lightning-fast retrograde minutes but a sleeker, more ergonomic case, a redesigned movement, and the return of the oil change indicator. Marking a first for the brand, the UR-220 was presented in lightweight yet highly resilient carbon cases (43.8mm wide x 53.6mm long x 14.8mm thick). Another novelty for the brand was the rubber strap with its succession of ‘scales’ emulating some aspects of the crazy geometry of the case. Fitted with a new hand-winding movement, which accounted for the thinner case and signalled the removal of the winding efficiency indicator, the UR-220 reincorporated the oil change indicator with a numerical counter calibrated in months on the back. Following the first UR-220 Falcon Project, the watch was revisited in an All Black version and a glow-in-the-dark SL Asimov model. 

Gold Case, White Strap

The last of the series, the URWERK UR-220 RG bids farewell in a luxurious 4N red gold case rippling with textured finishings. Shot-peened, sandblasted and satin-brushed surfaces highlight the complex architecture of the gold case. The crown and crown guards at 12 o’clock have a contrasting black DLC coating and also feature sandblasted and shot-peened finishings for a cool matte finish. Like the former editions of this watch, the URWERK UR-220 RG comes with a white Vulcarboné rubber strap with a Velcro fastening.

The baseplate supporting the dynamic spectacle dial-side is protected under a shaped sapphire crystal to match the asymmetrical contours of the case. Various elements incorporate the gold case colour, including the supporting structure of the hour transporter and the stepped flange in the top half of the dial accommodating the two power reserve gauges. As you will recall, the winding efficiency indicator of the UR-210 was replaced by the two power reserve gauges of the UR-220 and the oil change indicator on the back. The gauge on the right side indicates the mainspring state of wind; once it has reached its maximum level (green), the left-hand indicator takes over indicating the amount of fuel left in the tank (red). 

Equipped with Urwerk’s patented revolving satellite complication, the wandering hours are displayed on three rotating satellite cubes with white luminous numerals. As time elapses, the cubes slit into a hollowed-out minutes hand and travel together along the 120-degree minutes track and perform a big jump back to 0 to accommodate the next cube. One of the largest minute displays in a wristwatch, the spectacle is guaranteed throughout the day and night. The numerals on the satellites and minute track are treated with white Super-LumiNova that emits a blue glow in the dark and the red 60 on the minute track emits an eerie red glow. 

Turning the watch over reveals the black DLC-treated caseback with two small sapphire crystal portholes and the much-loved oil change indicator (originally featured on the UR-110 and UR-203)with a golden frame. The digital gauge uses a unit of one month and is indicated on two rollers. By removing a protective pin and pressing a pusher, the counters are activated and display the accumulated running time in months. After 39 months, URWERK will service the watch, reset the counter to zero and replace the pin.

Powered by calibre UR-7.20, with a top display module developed by URWERK, the manual-winding movement beats at a 4Hz frequency and the single mainspring barrel delivers a power reserve of 48 hours.

Availability & Price

The URWERK UR-220 RG will be released in a limited production of approximately 10 pieces a year. The price is CHF 149,000 (excl. tax). For more information, please visit urwerk.com.