Urwerk, the independent watchmaker that has already celebrated 25 years of existence, is known for its use of original time displays – wandering hours and satellites – as well as for its sci-fi-inspired, ultra-modern design. Even though it is the simplest watch in the collection, the Urwerk UR-100 has found its place as a signature watch since its launch in 2019. We’ve seen many renditions of UR-100, such as a warm gold version, a full-blue watch, the oddly attractive Bronze T-Rex or the monochromatic Full Titanium. The design cues of the latter return this year in a new stealth-looking edition with the new Urwerk UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket.
In 1997 designer Martin Frei and master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner embarked on their 21st-century watchmaking odyssey. And this has resulted in some very, very distinctive and polarising watches. With the Urwerk UR-100V, the brand wanted to create a more compact, easier and slightly more accessible watch in terms of price, design and complications. Still, it’s everything you’d expect from a Urwerk: bold, angular, textured and fitted with a display that no other brand can do. And a few little extras to make this watch a spaceship for the wrist.
Among the many releases of this watch, the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket, an entirely matte grey model fitted with a matching metallic bracelet (a rarity for the brand), remains one of the most striking designs. Today, the concept is back, but now the titanium alloy used for the case/bracelet has been coated in black DLC, making this model the Full Black Titanium Jacket. And yes, it couldn’t be more in line with what the brand stands for.
The case, measuring 41mm in width, 49.7mm in height and a 14mm thickness (not a small watch, but one that isn’t much bigger than many chronographs or pilot’s watches, making it rather wearable for most) is entirely made from sandblasted titanium, including the caseback and the 12 o’clock crown. Compared to previous editions, the design doesn’t change and has the same angular, flat case topped by an ultra-domed sapphire bubble. To give this model its true Full Metal Jacket nature, it comes on a matching black-treated sandblasted titanium bracelet. An extra rubber strap is also delivered with this edition.
The display and indications also match the case of this Urwerk UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket. As such, everything has been treated in black, with the exception of the markers that are printed in white with yellow accents for the all-important minute arrow. The concept of time reading hasn’t changed, and the watch still relies on the central three-arm carrousel that carries three satellites – the satellite carries the current hour on a 120-degree arched track, graduated from 0 to 60, to indicate the minutes until the following hour when the minute module jumps back to zero to be caught by the hour satellite.
There are more indications which can be seen on the two sides. The Urwerk UR-100V displays two astronomical indications: distance travelled on Earth (at 10 o’clock) and distance travelled by Earth (at 2 o’clock). The indicators corresponding to these distances are located on a raised black flange on the top half of the dial. For more details about this unique display, check this hands-on review here, as well as our video on top of this article.
Powering this Urwerk UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket is the calibre 12.02. Based on an outsourced automatic movement, the brand redesigned many parts, including the winding system. The full rotor, which you can see on the reverse side, is drilled and governed by a profiled airscrew known as the Windfänger, a device used to minimise shocks and reduce wear and tear. Also, on top is an in-house designed and produced module that displays the satellite indication. The carrousel and triple baseplates are elaborated in ARCAP, an alloy that does not contain iron and is not magnetic.
Availability & Price
The Urwerk UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket is released as a limited edition of 25 pieces. It retails for CHF 65,000, excluding taxes. For more details, please visit urwerk.com.