A metallic bracelet on an URWERK…? What a strange idea you might think. However, if you take a look at the previous models that the brand created, there was already one coming on such a bracelet, the UR-202 White Shark. This timepiece was a stunner and URWERK knows about it. Alongside the ultra-cool and off-the-range UR-110 Eastwood, URWERK is introducing this year another watch, coming in a full metallic outfit, the URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket.
The UR-210S is pure URWERK. It is made with all the DNA of the brand, all its technicality, its unusual display, its mechanical, cold, technical feeling that creates a stunning result. We already reviewed this watch and explained to you the way it works, when having the chance to play with the black coated edition, the UR-210 AlTIN. This watch has two of the specificities that make an URWERK unique: first the revolving satellite complication with wandering hour and retrograde minute hand and then the control panel on the caseback.
The way to read the time on the URWERK UR-210S is both extremely intuitive and technically highly complicated. As a wearer, you just have to check the red-pointer on the bottom of the dial to check the minutes and, just upon that, inside the minute hand, the hour numeral is revealed on a metallic cube. Easy and practical, isn’t it? A child could easily use an URWERK. However, behind this simplicity, there is a lot of horological sweetness hidden.
As we told you previously when reviewing the AlTIN edition of the URWERK UR-210, “There is actually only one “hand” to indicate the time and this hand comprises the hour indication and point towards the actual minutes. This is called the satellite complication. In the photo, it is points towards 20 minutes and the hour numeral is 3. The time is exactly 03:20 o’clock. The hours are printed on some sort of ‘cubes’ and there are 3 ‘arms’ with cubes. Every cube has 4 sides with a numeral. The three arms with cubes rotates around a central axis. However, the cubes with numerals also rotate around their own axis.” On the top of that sits the minute hand, that actually is a retrograde hand that runs on a 120° journey. It circled the hour cube during an hour and indicates the time on a 0 to 60 scale located on the bottom of the dial. Once an hour has passed, the retrograde hour gets back to its original position. A sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite.
The other specificity of the URWERK UR-210S (like every other editions of the UR-210) is the control panel on the caseback: a winding selector allows you to slow or stop the automatic winding rotor. Depending on your activity, you can select the winding strength of the rotor in one of three positions – full, reduced & stop. This function is complemented by two indication on the dial-side: a power reserve indicator at 2 and a winding efficiency indicator at 10. The latter calculates the difference between the consumed and generated energy of the mainspring. When you are not active enough, the indicator will move toward the red zone, meaning that your watch consumes more energy than the rotor provides to the main spring. On the other hand, if you are moving energetically, the indicator is going in the green zone, showing that the rotor provides more power than the watch consumes. These two indications will help you to select the right position of the winding selector.
For 2015, URWERK chose to re-issue the concept of a fully metallic watch, just like the UR-202 White Shark. The URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket comes in a very monochromatic look, with a full silver brushed tone. While the other URWERK look futuristic and dark, this metallic bracelet combined with a brighter dial brings a very luminous and technical look. The bracelet fits perfectly the shape of the UR-210 and it even complements it. It seems that this bracelet was conceived at the same time than the case of the UR-210. It really finishes the design. Both sportier and at the same time more discreet, this is a quite a surprise.
Of course, don’t expect the URWERK UR-210S to play in the lightweight category. The stainless bracelet is massive and heavy. So does the titanium and stainless steel case. However, the watch is balanced and feels extremely comfortable while strapped. The legibility is superb due to the brighter colour scheme and the high contrast between the minute hand, the satellites and the dial it-self.
The URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket is a limited edition of 35 pieces and it is priced at 145.000 Swiss Francs. More details on Urwerk.com.