Introducing Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military now in Black or Bronze

Two new models join the ranks of the military, entry-level piece by UN.
calendar | ic_dehaze_black_24px By Brice Goulard | ic_query_builder_black_24px 3 minute read

Back in 2017, Ulysse Nardin launched a new sub-collection, still inspired by the classic Marine Chronometer design, but with a more casual look and a more accessible price. This watch, the Marine Torpilleur, first came in a traditional style, with a white dial, Roman numerals and a power reserve indicator (faithful to 19th-century chronometers). In 2018, the brand turned this watch into something bolder, sportier and more field-oriented, with the cool-looking Marine Torpilleur Military. Today, two new limited editions join the ranks, one in Black DLC, one in bronze.

The idea with the Marine Torpilleur was to offer the undeniable charm of the Marine Chronometer watches in a more contemporary-looking 42mm case (no more integrated lug module), with the typical dial layout of such watches and a more accessible price – in fact, positioning itself as the entry-level watch of the brand, even though it still featured a nice in-house movement. Altogether, this was a tasteful facelift to the Marine collection and finally a decent price tag attached to it.

We’d have to wait a year to see the first evolution of this model, with the introduction of the Marine Torpilleur Military. Larger, with a 44mm case, much bolder in style, with its matte, sandblasted finish, sportier too with Arabic numerals and a vintage-looking dial, the watch still featured the same base chronometer movement, yet in a simplified version without a date and a power reserve indicator. In short, Ulysse Nardin’s vision of a field watch.

For 2019, the brand introduces two new limited editions, each offered in 300 pieces, as a tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s military heritage. While the basics of the Torpilleur Military have been respected, these new models being visual updates with new colours and new materials.

The first of the two is the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Bronze. Its 44mm case, still matte with a sandblasted finish and a super-slim bezel, is made of the trendiest material in the watch world today: bronze. Gold-ish on these images, it will gain patina over time and change colour, which perfectly suits the military theme of this watch.

The bronze case of the Marine Torpilleur Military is paired with a matte blue dial, with white Arabic numerals and gold-coloured hands. To avoid any risk of allergies, the caseback is made of steel and is stamped with a torpedo ship. It comes with a blue leather strap for a casual look.

The second model is a black-and-khaki version of the Torpilleur Military. Here, the sandblasted case has been treated in stealth mode with a DLC coating on all the parts, including the decorated caseback. Matching the dark theme is a matte black dial with khaki Arabic numerals and hands. This military colour is also found on the strap, which is made of “trellis fabric”.

Inside the case of both editions is the in-house calibre UN-118, a modern automatic movement with a silicon hairspring and a silicon anchor escapement running at 4Hz with a power reserve of 60 hours. Even though not visible, the movement is nicely decorated and will perform well thanks to its chronometer certification delivered by the COSC.

The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military black-and-khaki (300 pieces) will be priced at EUR/USD 7,900. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Bronze (300 pieces) will be priced at EUR/USD 8,900. They will be available soon at retailers. More details at www.ulysse-nardin.com.

3 responses

  1. I think the bronze has the best overall balance here, I especially love the dial and the clarity of the hands. At 44, too big for most wrists over 50 years old….while this trend may work for younger up and comers, most mature men find the size too attention seeking and conspicuous. This is by no means a thin case as well. If you know watches, you begin to question the case size/calibre size ratio with watches this simple. Still, the military aesthetic really works here and the price is spot on.

  2. You’re right, Warriordrum, most brands have too much large watches in their collections, or not enough 40mm or smaller sized watches. At MONOCHROME we would love to see more fair sized watches.

  3. I genuinely believe we may be at the point, with an entire generation having grown up used to very large wristwatches, that a significant percentage of non enthusiasts consider pieces like this to be more or less normal, or even “better” than 40mm pieces. I cannot tell you how much it grinds me gears to read another watch-blog describe an increased case-size as “upgraded”. Add to that the “urban”/hip-hop/rap aesthetic which now dominates popular culture and I am not optimistic about the prospects for the future of restrained pieces. Let’s face it, if X number of focus groups tell companies they want monster-bling, they will get it. As Chinese youths start to resemble their American counterparts (complete with obesity & slovenliness), I can well imagine that models such as the classic Datejust will be seen as “dad watches” by those about to enter the ranks of the economically-stable consumer.

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