We are always happy at MONOCHROME to see the launch of new independent brands. While most of the recently launched brands were more on the entry-level side of the watchmaking scene, we can’t hide our love for hand-made movements that focus on chronometry and high-end decorations. So, it is with great pleasure that we take our first look at a new independent watchmaker named Tulloch and his inaugural creation, a superbly crafted regulator with an impressive movement. Meet the Tulloch T-01 First Edition Regulator.
Shane Tulloch grew up in New Zealand, literally in and around a workshop, as his father is a jeweller. Tulloch went on to study micro-mechanical engineering for four years with a focus on watch movements, designing some concepts on CAD. He made numerous visits to Switzerland to meet craftspeople, suppliers and get to know the industry. Although he had a pretty clear idea for the watches he wanted to make, he really started to create his first watch after meeting watch designer Eric Giroud in 2016, in Geneva. Tulloch and Giroud refined their project for months, taking inspiration from yesteryear regulators (master clocks characterized by separate hour, minute and second displays for precision time reading).
To develop the watch and the movement based on their design, Shane Tulloch contacted Christophe Beuchat, a watchmaking engineer who in turn introduced him to Kari Voutilainen. In fact, Beuchat had just been named Director of Comblémine SA, a company owned by Voutilainen that manufactures parts and dials in Saint-Sulpice in the Val de Travers. Christophe Beuchat, Kari Voutilainen and Stéphane Bépoix (a movement designer) embraced the project and supported Tulloch all the way: it took three years for the team to create the T01.
The Tulloch T-01 First Edition Regulator
The Tulloch T-01 First Edition is a regulator-type wristwatch with a twist. With its slightly tilted hours, minutes and seconds indications, the watch feels classic and modern at the same time. Measuring 40mm in diameter, it is presented in white or pink gold with a two-tone powder frosted silver dial available in a variety of colours. The gold sub-dials are framed by gold rings and feature hand-polished machined numerals. The hands are in 18k gold or flamed blue steel.
Overall, that’s already quite an attractive package and although we have not had the chance to go hands-on with the T01, from the press pictures it looks superbly finished (not that you would expect anything else with Kari Voutilainen mentoring the project). But the best is yet to come. The exhibition caseback offers an unimpeded view of the magnificent movement.
The hand-wound calibre found in the Tulloch T-01 First Edition Regulator stands out with its symmetrical architecture: two barrels mounted in series at the top and the balance wheel on the opposite side. The twin-barrels are mounted in series to deliver optimal torque to the movement. These are decorated by hand with a guilloché pattern that can be made to measure for each client from a selection of patterns. Running at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the balance wheel features gold adjustment screws and a hairspring with a Breguet overcoil and a Philips terminal curve. It is suspended under a single-arm black-polished steel bridge.
The overall finishing looks rather spectacular with German silver bridges and main-plate, a two-tone finish in powder-frosted black gold and frosted nickel. These parts are decorated with rounded bevels and internal angles made and polished by hand, as well as straight-grained flanks. The gear train wheels are 18k white gold, with a double-spoke design and finished with circular-grained faces and hand-polished bevels. All of that in a traditional Haute Horlogerie way.
Price and Availability
The Tulloch T-01 First Edition Regulator will be made in a series of 50 numbered pieces in 18k red and white gold (25 of each). It is worn on a hand-stitched alligator strap (multiple colours available) with a gold pin buckle. The watches are available via direct orders and deliveries are expected 8 weeks after the order has been placed. It is priced at CHF 36,800 or USD 36,800.
For more information and orders, visit www.tulloch.com.