The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates

Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer lies beneath the surface: the introduction of the METAS-certified chronometer Calibre MT5400-U. Combine that with a few more subtle, under-the-radar upgrades, and you’ve got more than just a pretty face… a story worth telling. But before we dive into our hands-on impressions, let’s rewind and revisit the origins of the Black Bay 58.

Revisiting the Black Bay 58

The Tudor Black Bay line was introduced in 2012 alongside the Pelagos. From the start, the Black Bay redefined Tudor’s identity, injecting fresh energy, modern specs, and vintage charm into the brand and ultimately putting Tudor back on the map. It was pitched as a contemporary-sized diver with a strong historical backbone, bridging the gap between heritage and modern performance.

Then, in 2018, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (the name later changed to Black Bay 58) joined the lineup. But this wasn’t just another riff on the same theme. The Fifty-Eight was a more deliberate nod to Tudor’s iconic Big Crown Submariner from 1958 – specifically the reference 7924. It brought the design closer to its roots with a smaller, slimmer case that delivered a more faithful vintage-inspired aesthetic.

Sized at 39mm (compared to the 41mm of the standard Black Bay) and just 11.9mm thick, down from the original’s hefty 15mm, the original Black Bay 58 offered a compact, less bulky presence on the wrist. The lug width was trimmed to 20mm, and while the design stayed true to the Black Bay DNA, touches like the oversized crown adorned with the vintage Tudor rose added to its nostalgic appeal. Only the crown tube remained uncoated in plain steel, staying true to the stripped-down simplicity of the original.

Tudor also developed a more compact manufacture movement to match this downsized case – the Calibre MT5402 – boasting the same specifications as its larger sibling (70h power reserve and silicon hairspring, to name a few) but tailored for the Fifty-Eight’s smaller dimensions.

Since its debut, the Black Bay 58 line has expanded to include various dial and bezel colours and bronze, silver, gold and even a fantastic GMT option. Burgundy has always been part of the Tudor palette – the 2012 Black Bay debuted with the burgundy bezel – but until 2025, never on the dial itself. There is an all-burgundy Submariner 7900 prototype in Tudor archives that never made it to production but is said to be the one that inspired the burgundy bezel in the first place and the Black Bay line, too.

The new Black Bay 58 Burgundy

With this Black Bay 58 Burgundy, the mood changes entirely. The result is a fresh, exciting twist on a modern classic. Here’s what we thought after spending some time with it hands-on. First of all, we have to consider this evolution of the Black Bay 58 as the same recipe used by Tudor when revamping the classic Black Bay in 2023 with a burgundy bezel and in 2024 with the Monochrome edition (no, we were not involved…). Minimal touches to make the watch even better, even more timeless, even more powerful.

The new Tudor Black Bay 58 wears exceptionally well on the wrist, thanks to its well-balanced 39mm case and short, curved lugs, and paired with the riveted-style stainless steel bracelet it offers comfort and style. This latest version is slightly slimmer, measuring 11.7mm thick (compared to the 11.9mm thickness of reference M7930). It might not show, but the whole case has been moderately redesigned, even if it retains the look we appreciate in this watch. 

The polished and satin-finished surfaces and nicely executed chamfered lugs bring a familiar aesthetic, reinforcing the brand’s consistent design language. The unidirectional bezel features a burgundy anodised aluminium insert and now incorporates the sharper, more defined knurling previously introduced to the classic Black Bay 41 line – a welcome refinement that improves grip and ease of rotation.

Another subtle but appreciated update is the redesigned screw-down crown. The visible crown tube and extra bulge from earlier models have been eliminated, allowing the crown – still adorned with the Tudor rose logo – to sit closer to the polished caseband. It also features updated fluting, in line with the recent design evolution of the Black Bay 41 collection.

Beneath the domed sapphire crystal lies a domed, satin-brushed burgundy dial with silver-toned markings and applied indices filled with luminescent material – a familiar and cohesive series look that complements the watch’s overall aesthetic. The signature Super-LumiNova-treated snowflake hands remain, but the central seconds hand now features a lollipop design, replacing the traditional rhomboid shape with a round luminous tip. If memory serves, the only Black Bay model to retain this design within the Master Chronometer range is the Black Bay Ceramic 41, introduced a few years ago.

The dial mentions the Master Chronometer status with a “200m:660ft Master Chronometer” inscription above the 6 o’clock. Unlike the three lines of text on previous COSC-certified models, this new layout is reduced to just two lines, resulting in a more spacious and harmonious dial.

The new full-burgundy Tudor Black Bay 58 is powered by the self-winding manufacture Calibre MT5400-U made by Kenissi, with 65 hours of power reserve and operating at 28,800 vibrations/hour. To achieve the METAS Master Chronometer certification, the movement must first be COSC-certified. Once cased, it undergoes additional testing for precision across six positions, at two different temperatures, and at two levels of power reserve. It also must demonstrate resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. The MT5400-U features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring – just like the standard COSC-certified MT5400 – it includes a stop-seconds function for precise time setting, is equipped with a variable inertia balance and has a transversal balance bridge.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 we experienced was fitted with a 3-link “rivet-style” stainless steel bracelet with the sharp Tudor shield on the flip-lock, mostly satin finished. Other options include a 5-link bracelet or rubber strap, all of which come with a TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, which allows for micro-adjustment and hassle-free fit.

This new Black Bay 58 is once again showing Tudor’s willingness to embrace bold colour choices, but the “Burgundy” is not just a visual standout – it draws a subtle connection to the historic 7900 prototype, bridging past and present in a way that makes this model feel special. The upgrade to a METAS-certified movement brings enhanced precision and performance, while the refined design evolution adds thoughtful touches. The result is a watch that looks and feels exceptional and is also hard to part with.

Prices for the Black Bay 58 Burgundy Master Chronometer are EUR 4,510 and EUR 4,620 for the 3-link and 5-link steel bracelet references, respectively, and EUR 4,290 with a rubber strap. It is available now from the brand’s boutiques and retailers. For more details, please visit www.tudorwatch.com.