If Maurice Lacroix has recently mostly focused its attention on the sporty Aikon collection, the brand is also known for its know-how in original displays. For more than 20 years, ML has explored complications and original displays within its Masterpiece collection, with numerous pieces featuring retrograde indications. Think about the Masterpiece Moon Retrograde or the Masterpiece Double Retrograde. Today, the accessible luxury watchmaker brings an even more complex display, with now three signature complications. Meet the new Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Triple Retrograde.
As you can see with the watches above, Maurice Lacroix knows perfectly how to animate a dial thanks to retrograde complications. While all are still relatively simple functions – such as a date or a second time zone – their non-linear display makes these watches mechanically interesting and unique. In addition to that, the way these indications are positioned create dials that are complex, nicely proportioned and that really stand out of the crowd. After making watches with one or two of these retrograde indications, this year we’ll see a watch that comes with a retrograde trio, the Masterpiece Triple Retrograde.
While the design of this new Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece retains most elements that have been introduced by the collection in 2017, with the Double Retrograde, multiple mechanical evolutions are to be noted. Two of the indications are known and brought back in this Triple Retrograde context. First, located at 6 o’clock, is a retrograde date on a semi-circular track. Second, at 12 o’clock, is a an additional 24h display, which can be used to indicate a second time zone. The third retrograde indication, new to this model, replaces the power reserve gauge (which makes less sense in an automatic watch). Positioned at 3 o’clock, it displays the day of the week. Finally, a small seconds at 9 o’clock create visual balance.
In order to ensure that this complex display is legible and easy to read, the dial is constructed on several levels, with different decorations. The background is matte silvered, while the central part of the sub-dials is adorned with an embossed “clous de Paris” pattern with a matte silvered surface. All the indications are read on raised tracks that have a circular brushed surface, with black printings. Applied pearl-like markers are used to easily read the indications, while time is read thanks to blue hands and applied Roman numerals. There’s a great sense of depth and contrast in this dial, which mixes classism and originality. And while there’s certainly a lot going on, this desired “mess” is making for a spectacular watch – despite being reasonable priced.
Once again to make sure the dial remains legible and clear, the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Triple Retrograde opts for a relatively large case of 43mm in diameter and 14mm in height. Combining polished and brushed surfaces, it is nicely executed with a bevel on the side of the lugs. Short horns and a curved profile ensure a snug fit on the wrist despite the large dimensions. The watch is protected by sapphire crystals front and caseback and is rated at 50m water-resistance. It is worn on a blue leather strap with steel folding clasp.
While the Double Retrograde or the Moon Retrograde were powered by a manufacture movement (calibre ML190), the new Masterpiece Triple Retrograde is fitted with a modular movement, relying on a Sellita SW 200 base – in order to keep a reasonable price and to maximize reliability. What remains, however, is the in-house developed and assembled module for the retrograde indications – dubbed ML291. This movement runs at a 4Hz frequency and stores up to 38 hours of power reserve. The decoration is pleasant, with an openwork rotor with Geneva stripes and polished bevels, and bridges with chemical tapestry with M logo on upper edge and Colimaçon.
Note that in addition to the silver and blue version presented here, the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Triple Retrograde is also presented with an anthracite dial with Geneva stripes decoration, and gold-coloured dial elements (for the hands and applied markers).
The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Triple Retrograde silver dial (ref. MP6538-SS001-110-1) is introduced as part of the permanent collection and will be priced at EUR 5,500 or CHF 5,200. More details at www.mauricelacroix.com.