We’ve covered many Chronoswiss regulators over the years and the brand’s commitment to the style is unsurpassed. Introduced at Baselworld 2019, the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec brought retrograde seconds to the regulator setup, adding both a distinct character and advanced complication to the “flying” multi-level dial variants. Ironically, the futuristic look of a flying regulator with retrograde seconds have roots in the distant past – the regulator and retrograde complication are both hundreds of years old. Chronoswiss has added a unique colour-shifting dial to this latest Open Gear ReSec Paraiba, mimicking rare Paraiba tourmaline found in Brazil.
The 17-piece stainless steel case is classic Chronoswiss and the same as earlier Open Gear ReSec models. Measuring 44mm in diameter and 13.35mm in height, it certainly has a bold presence on the wrist. The sides and back have a satin finish and the bezel is polished, while signature knurled edges circle the top and bottom. Other Chronoswiss elements are the oversized onion crown and arching lugs that secure the strap via exposed screws and the brand’s patented Autobloc system. The strap is black Hornback crocodile leather with a deployant clasp. The front has a double-coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal and the back features a sapphire exhibition window. Water-resistance is rated at 100 metres.
The 42-piece dial is the star of the show, starting with a colour-shifting base. This is achieved with a short-wave guilloché pattern and nano-decorative CVD coating (chemical vapour deposition). Following months of experimentation, the Chronoswiss lab produced a turquoise dial that displays multiple colours as it shifts in the light – turquoise to petrol blue into jungle green and deep purple. Chronoswiss head of design and a former goldsmith, Maik Panziera, said it reminded him of Paraiba tourmaline from north-eastern Brazil, among the world’s rarest of gemstones.
The rest of the dial has a multi-dimensional regulator setup with a funnel-shaped hours sub-dial at the top, central minutes hand and retrograde seconds at the bottom. The movement isn’t skeletonized per se, but has exposed gears and two bridges at the hour sub-dial. The retrograde seconds hand sweeps for 30 seconds at a time, from right to left. The galvanic black and white elements contrast well against the base dial, and the Trigono shaped hands are lacquered and polished with Super-LumiNova inserts. The hour and minute indices are also Super-LumiNova blocks and cylinders.
Powering the watch is the Chronoswiss calibre C. 301 automatic, based on the ETA 2895. It has 33 jewels, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) with a 42-hour power reserve. The retrograde seconds mechanism was designed and produced in-house, along with the regulator module. Seen from the exhibition case back, the rotor is skeletonized with a turquoise CVD coating and decorations include perlage and Côtes de Genève.
The Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Paraiba is limited to 50 pieces and retails for CHF 9,700 or EUR 9,800. For more information, visit the Chronoswiss website.