Schwarz Etienne adds a Black Dial to the Geometry Family

As we will see in a few days in an interview we have done with the recently appointed director of Schwarz Etienne, Florian Brossard, the independent watchmaker is about to open a new chapter in its history, with revamped collections and great ambitions to meet with the incredible capacities of this manufacturer, one of the very rare brands capable of making its own balance wheels and hairsprings in-house. But before talking about the future, we need to look at the present, and it is bright, with the launch of a new member in the original, striking Geometry series, with its deconstructed dial now available in black. 

Before deciding to work with external designers and craftsmen, Schwarz Etienne showcased its watchmaking skills with a rather classic watch named the Roma Petite Seconde. While there was no denying the attention to detail in the movement, with its fine decoration, appealing finger bridges for the gear train, a micro-rotor arcitecture, the overall design was lacking personality, charm and distinctiveness. A fine watch that was not striking enough to convince in a rather competitive market of independent watchmakers. Things changed when Schwarz Etienne decided to use this vessel as a base for creativity, first by inviting Kari Voutilainen at the table, adding a hand-guilloché dial by Comblémine but also engine-turned decoration on the movement’s bridges, creating the Roma Synergy series – available in sand grey or blue, in Cherry Red, and collaborative models in salmon or green. And while technically close to a Roma model, these Voutilainen-infused watches were far more appealing visually.

Next in line, again adding some pizzazz to the visual side, was the Schwarz Etienne Geometry, this time inviting designer Eric Giroud to transform the dial, and dialmaker Metalem to create a deconstructed hand-guilloché dial. First released in silver and salmon, followed by a bold cherry red edition, the Geometry comes back this year in a more traditional, monochromatic model with a black dial and some enhancements regarding the decoration of the movement.

The base of the watch is sourced from the classic collection, with an existing, rather elegant case in stainless steel measuring 39mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness. The case is entirely polished and features stepped lugs. It is fair to say that it’s not the most striking case design around, but in a way, it is a positive point… The focal point becoming the dial. And there’s a lot going on this dial. The case wears nicely on the wrist and features sapphire crystals on both sides, with a decent water-resistance of 50 metres.

The dial is a joint creation between Schwarz Etienne, designer Giroud and dialmaker Metalem. Using a solid 18k gold base and classic hand-guilloché technique, the dial is geometrically split into four segments, each quadrant housing a series of concentric snailed arcs, fan-like pleats, Clous de Paris motifs and flat sandblasted areas. The medley of alternating patterns, with 3D ridges that rise and fall, produces a mesmerising, highly kinetic effect. Take, for example, the flat sandblasted minutes track with silver markers and follow its non-linear course across the four segments – or the Clous de Paris motif that only appears in three segments and the changing size and height of the guilloché patterns that add so much depth to the dial. It is a fantastically complex dial that, for whatever reason, is both playing with your mind and yet remains easy to read.

For the occasion of this new limited run, the Schwarz Etienne Geometry opts for a classic and monochromatic dial in matte black. No more contrasting minutes track and small seconds sub-counter, everything is here tone-on-tone, except for the silver-toned markers, the logo and the rhodium-treated Lancine-style hour and minute hands – which are polished and faceted, making them easy to read even if there’s not lume.

At the heart of the Schwarz Etienne Geometry Black is the same base movement as before – the in-house calibre ASE 200.02 – but here in a new visual expression. The same movement as the Roma Synergy series, this automatic movement is fully manufactured internally. It is wound by a micro-rotor and features a powerful mainspring offering a generous 86-hour power reserve. Compared to the previous edition of the Geometry, the decoration has been updated to be even more consistent with the dial. Indeed, the sandblasted bridges are here black PVD coated, but the polished bevels are contrasting with a rhodium plating – offering a great interplay of colours. The micro-rotor opts for the same decoration and the ratchet wheel is finished with snailed and polished surfaces.

Worn on an aged black leather strap with grey stitches, closed by a steel folding clasp, this new and more modern Schwarz Etienne Geometry Black is a limited edition of 100 pieces, priced at CHF 23,800. For more details, please visit schwarz-etienne.ch.