The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel

RGM is an independent high-end American watch brand founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Trained in Switzerland (Wostep), Roland worked in product development at Hamilton before going solo. RGM is something of an anomaly on the American panorama with its in-house movements and dials decorated with traditional métiers d’art like hand-guilloché and Grand Feu enamel. In fact, RGM is the only vertically integrated manufacture in the country, producing unique movements, dials, hands and other components in-house. The good news for fans of the brand is that RGM’s first in-house calibre, the 801, is now fitted inside a more compact 40mm case.

Erik, our US-based contributor, reviewed the RGM PS-801 Classic Enamel a few years ago. A traditional old-school watch with a Grand Feu enamel dial, Roman numerals, blued Breguet-style hands, fluting on the caseband and RGM’s in-house 801 manual-winding movement, the only ‘but’ for some folks was the large 42mm case with a thickness of 12.3mm. In 2019, the model returned in a skeletonised version in an even larger case of 43.3mm.

Today, RGM’s calibre 801 receives a new habitat and comes in a smaller 40mm diameter case with a much slimmer profile of 9.3mm. Not only is it more compact, but the casebands no longer feature the fluting, and the case is decorated with a matte satin-brushed finish. Emphasising its vintage spirit, there is a box-shaped sapphire crystal over the dial. We know too well that sometimes, less is more…

While RGM upholds “old-world decorative arts” like hand-guilloché, the brand’s Grand Feu enamel dials are entrusted to a master enameller in Switzerland. Inspired by the dials of vintage pocket watches, the glossy white enamel dial has different levels and three separate components. The chapter ring, the central panel and the recessed small seconds sub-dial have to be enamelled individually, compounding the difficulty no end.

On the periphery is a black railway-style minutes track with small pyramids at five-minute intervals and red Arabic numerals. In contrast, classical Roman numerals are used for the hours. The small seconds counter is recessed and also has a black railway track, Arabic numerals and a blued hand with a crescent-shaped counterweight. A favourite of RGM’s founder, the hour and minute hands are Breguet style and blued for an old-school feel.

Turning the watch over reveals components of the manual-winding calibre 801 with its slow-beating screwed balance – 2.5Hz frequency or 18,000vph – and 44-hour power reserve. Introduced in 2007, calibre 801 was RGM’s first in-house movement and the first serial mechanical watch movement manufactured in the US since 1969 when Hamilton stopped producing its calibre 992 B. RGM states that its movements are 90% American-made, meaning a couple of parts like the balance spring and jewels are produced elsewhere.

Paying homage to the good old days of American watchmaking, the bridge shapes are reminiscent of Keystone-Howard Watch Company’s flagship “Edward Howard” model and the winding click was inspired by the Illinois “Bunn Special”, an American-invented motor barrel used in the highest-grade railroad watches. Hand-finished embellishments include circular damascening, chamfered edges, Geneva stripes and blued screws. However, as RGM points out, the decoration of the calibre can be customised and options like hacking seconds, wolf’s teeth winding wheels, and custom engravings on the balance bridge are also available.

With an annual production of fewer than 300 timepieces, customisation is a big deal at RGM. In addition to the movement, the dial and hands can also be customised by selecting a pre-existing dial from the brand’s repertoire. The new and compact RGM 801/40-CE retails for USD 14,900, in the classic enamel version presented here. For more information, please consult rgmwatches.com.