Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
First Look

The Bold, GS-Powered King Seiko VANAC Collection

Based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s, we get five new models to choose from, with solid GS engines.

| By Robin Nooy | 3 min read |

You thought you knew everything from Seiko’s immensely versatile archive? Well, think again, as this new King Seiko VANAC collection is a straight blast from the past that probably few saw coming! Based on just one of many designs that were part of the original Vanac models, first up is a set of five new references. Sharing the same unique exterior profile, each one is given a rather striking dial design and tone, I might add. The result is surprising, unexpected and likely quite polarizing! Here’s a first look at the King Seiko VANAC SLA083, SLA085, SLA087, SLA089 and SLA091, all new models for the KS range that are powered by a new GS-derived movement.

Some examples of vintage King Seiko VANAC watches

The case profile for the VANAC series comes straight from the early 1970s and was part of a whole series of very funky and colourful watches. A key element in pretty much all of them is the use of faceted angles and surfaces, with alternating finishings to reflect light as much as possible. That’s also the case, pun intended, with these ones, which come in a 41mm by 14.3mm stainless steel exterior – it is a tall watch, but that’s partly explained by the movement that sits inside. The high box-shaped sapphire crystal mimics the look of period acrylic crystals, and there’s another crystal around the back (more on that in a bit). The crown is positioned at three and is slightly recessed into the caseband.

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The dial is inspired by the Tokyo Sunrise and comes in five distinct combinations: Purple for the SLA083, Navy Blue for the SL085, Silver for the SLA087, Golden Brown for the SLA089 and finally, Ice-Blue for the SLA091. Each one has horizontal grooves, a dedicated ring for the hour markers, a special V-shaped marker at noon, and central hour, minute and seconds hand (with a V-shaped counterweight). Finishing touches include luminous inserts on the hands and markers and a framed and bevelled date window.

For the VANAC sub-collection, Seiko presents a new automatic movement, the Calibre 8L45, which is new to Seiko and is also used in the high-end Prospex Marinemaster Professional Titanium SLA081. Not only is it a first for Seiko, but it is also new in the KS range, and it can be seen thanks to a see-through caseback. Looking closely at it, you’ll immediately understand that you’re looking at a Grand Seiko-derived movement, to be precise, the Calibre 9S65. It seems that it could replace the calibre 8L35, normally used in high-end Seiko watches. The 8L45 movement, a fairly tall calibre measuring 6mm, runs at a rate of 28,800vph and delivers a healthy power reserve of 72 hours. The finish is rather nice, with broad stripes on the plates, bridges and rotor. It’s regulated to run within +10 seconds to -5 seconds per day of deviation.

Seiko puts the new King Seiko VANAC collection on a faceted, integrated steel bracelet that follows the profile of the case down to the folding clasp. Availabliity is split three-ways, with the purple, blue and silver SLA083, SLA085 and SLA087 being part of the permanent range, the brown dial SLA089 a limited edition of 700 pieces, and the ice-blue SLA091 a boutique exclusive. Each one will retail for EUR 3,400 and will be available from July 2025 onward.

For more information, please visit Seiko-Watches.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/review-king-seiko-vanac-sla083-sla085-sla087-sla089-sla091-8l45-grand-seiko-movement-8l45-price/

8 responses

  1. Good looking watches, from a “distance”.
    But, the hours and minutes hands are too “thick” like in a diver. These are not Divers.
    It is difficult to tell the “minutes” because of the way the minutes markers are shown. This dial is unacceptable to me . . . .

    The movement though is a good one !

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  2. Seiko (as well as many of Swiss companies) does not have any new idea. Always reproposal of vintage pieces, when vintage pieces were much better!!! Vintage Vanac were wonderful!!!! These are just ok, and I will never spend 3k € for them!!!

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  3. Appreciate that a brand like Seiko dares to take risks. So often people complain that watch brands are playing it safe, wishing for something out of the ordinary. When they get it, they don’t like it. I’m not sold on some of the details on this, and I’m pretty sure Seiko won’t sell many. But once they discontinue it, we’ll all dream back to how cool the King Seiko Vanac was.

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  4. Jesus – these, in my humble opinion, are the best watch release so far of 2025!! I am completely and utterly in love. Perfect GADA watch with integrated bracelet, excellent movement which can be seen – and just a beautiful case design! Bravo Seiko 👏🏼

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  5. These watches are so bold and beautiful. They are certainly not for the faint-hearted.

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