When it comes to H. Moser & Cie. you certainly figure an elegant, slightly original watch with an ultra-clean “fumé” dial. And you’d be right in thinking so. However, there’s more at Neuhausen am Rheinfall (the home of the brand). The brand also has a sports watch under its sleeve, under the name Pioneer – which we’ve already reviewed here. Today, Moser launches its boldest version to date, with a signature Funky Blue dial and, more original, a black DLC-coated case. Meet the Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition.
H. Moser’s Sports Watch
With the Pioneer Centre Seconds (or with its Perpetual Calendar or Tourbillon versions), H. Moser & Cie. explores territories that aren’t somehow out of its comfort zone. The brand is mostly known for its elegant, nude watches with in-house (complex or simpler) movements, like the Endeavour. The Pioneer is, on the other hand, bolder, larger, sportier and overall more resistant to daily use than everything else done by Moser… But still, it feels all around like a Moser.
Don’t expect this Pioneer Centre Seconds to be a rugged, oversized, ultra-masculine piece under testosterone. It remains rather elegant – at least for a sporty watch – and keeps all the signature elements of a Moser watch. Its case, which is for once available in steel (most other collections are only available in precious metals), measures 42mm in diameter, is more robustly designed and has a very decent water resistance of 120 metres. Not per se a dive watch, it can easily withstand a plunge in salty waters, especially since it is worn on a rubber strap.
The overall design is reminiscent of other watches done by the brand, with a thin bezel, a conical crown and a focus on the dial. The lugs and casebands are, however, reinforced to provide more resistance to an active life. And of course, there’s a “fumé” dial – with smoked/gradient effect – to remind you that indeed, you’re wearing a watch from Moser. So, in short, the Pioneer Centre Seconds feels like a Moser but is meant for different purposes. Available in several combinations of steel (with a green dial or a funky blue dial) as well as gold and DLC-titanium versions, a new model is now presented, with an even bolder but very appealing combination.
Black Case and Funky Blue Dial
As indicated by its name, the new H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition adds some darkness to the cocktail, as its steel case is treated in black DLC (diamond-like coating, a highly resistant version of the black plating processes). This result in a watch that is visually more compact than the non-coated steel models – something I personally like, as having a smaller wrist. The case retains its polished and satin-finished surfaces, with decorated/recessed casebands. It is worn on a black perforated rubber strap.
The dial of this Black Pioneer Centre Seconds is treated in pure Moser style, with a “Funky Blue” theme. This means a vivid electric blue colour in the centre and a midnight blue tone on the periphery of the dial – a style that Moser was one of the first brands to introduce years ago and that is now common in the watch industry. To match with the case, the luminous leaf-shaped hands and the applied hour markers are also blackened. The dial is all about purity, with only the “H. Moser & Cie.” logo being printed.
This watch has a pretty simple display, with hours, minutes and seconds and a pleasant absence of a date window. The combination of a dark case with a bright blue dial is, in the end, original and desirable.
Calibre HMC 200
The movement inside the Pioneer Centre Seconds is the HMC 200, an automatic calibre designed, developed and produced entirely in-house. Thanks to the bi-directional pawl-winding system, the watch is wound more quickly and holds power over a minimum period of three days (72 hours). Equipped with an original Straumann Hairspring® with a flat overcoil, the large oscillating weight is engraved with the company logo and the movement is finished with Moser stripes.
The Pioneer Tour
For the launch of one of their boldest watch yet, H. Moser & Cie. is launching a new concept, the Pioneer Tour. The brand is lending the Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition to lucky guardians, who will accompany it on an adventure around the globe for one year – with no route planned whatsoever. The guardian will hand it over to someone of its choice, after which it will be passed from watchlover to watchlover… destination (and connoisseur) unknown. Each person will keep the watch for a week, photographing the Pioneer on their wrist… A story to follow on a dedicated landing page, as well as on Instagram @moserwatches under the hashtag #PioneerTour.
Price and availability
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition (ref. 3200-1205) is a non-limited edition. It will soon be available at retailers and will be priced at EUR 13,250. More details at www.h-moser.com.