The Gorgeous Chopard L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122

While Chopard’s high-end L.U.C watches are built to outlast generations, the watchmakers and artisans who make the watches are not. Foresight is not a common virtue, but co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is determined to pass the baton and prepare future generations of watchmakers. The watch unveiled today is a testament to his commitment. Celebrating the 200^th anniversary of the Geneva School of Watchmaking (EHG), Chopard releases the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122, powered by a base movement co-developed with apprentices from the prestigious school. Presented in a 44mm rose gold case, aficionados will have a hard time deciding which view they prefer: the hypnotic aventurine dial with an astronomical moon phase display or the gorgeous 38mm manual-winding movement on the reverse.  

Co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised with the presentation of Chopard’s first in-house movement in 1996. Known as the calibre 1.96 and fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, Chopard’s L.U.C family initiated its high-end watchmaking adventure.

As a partner of Switzerland’s oldest watchmaking school since 2004, Chopard supplies final year EHG students an L.U.C 06.01-L calibre in kit form. The main plates and components are unfinished for students to work on and decorate by hand for their graduation timepiece. Culminating in the L.U.C calibre 63.01-L, a large manual-winding movement created with EHG students in 2010, the movement was used inside an exceptional L.U.C 1963 wristwatch to celebrate the 50^th anniversary of the Scheufele’s acquisition of Chopard.

Drawing on features of the calibre 63.01-L, the new L.U.C 63.04-L has an astronomical moon phase module. Such is the precision of the moon phase, where the error between the real trajectory of the Moon and the module is just 57 seconds, that it will only need a one-day adjustment once every 122 years and 45 days. (Incidentally, EHG students continuing their studies to become watch repairers will be given one of these moon phase modules to tinker with.)

Named after Chopard’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the Heritage pieces in the L.U.C collection are a nod to the late 19^th-century pocket watches designed by the founder. Here, the beautifully rounded, curvaceous case evokes the profile of hunter-style pocket watches and is crafted in 18k ethical rose gold. Measuring 44mm across with a thickness of 12.7mm, the top surfaces of the case are mirror-polished, contrasting with the vertical satin-brushed case middle. Like historical pocket watches, the lugs are welded to the case. The large 8mm polished crown is decorated with a vintage Chopard logo.

The sparkling dark blue aventurine dial is traversed by a series of white dots and lines representing constellations in the Northern Hemisphere. Performing its cycle of waxing and waning in the sub-dial at 3 o’clock, the gold hand-hammered and hand-engraved moon features a realistic lunar surface. Opposite but contained in the small seconds sub-dial is a view of the globe from the North Pole, hand-sculpted in gold with oceans of blue lacquer. The signature L.U.C dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands and the small seconds hand are gold.

The gorgeous 38mm wide and 6.7mm thick manual-winding L.U.C 63.04-L calibre fills the case, offering a delightful mechanical spectacle. Decorated with haute horlogerie finishings that have earned it the coveted Poinçon de Genève hallmark, the German silver bridges (aka nickel silver or maillechort) and mainplate retain the natural silvery hue of this metal but reveal refined hand-bevelled and gilded edges. Other top-notch finishings include the gilded inscriptions and traditional Côtes de Genève and perlage. The COSC chronometer-certified movement features an elegant swan-neck regulator. It beats at 2.5Hz, delivers a 60-hour power reserve and has a stop-seconds function.

The L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 is a limited edition of 20 pieces. It comes on a blue calfskin strap with an ethical rose gold folding clasp. Price to be confirmed. More information at Chopard.com.