The Best Watches From Independent Watchmakers Of 2024

Independent watchmaking is the very fabric of MONOCHROME, the stuff that gets us excited the most, our literal raison d’etre. It’s been part of our DNA since the start of our platform, and naturally, we continue to advocate our love and bring you the best of the very best from Indie brands the world over. This year we saw a wide range of superb new watches from brands we’ve had our eye on for years, but also from a surprise new discovery from the Land of the Rising Sun. Without further ado, here’s what we voted for as the Best of Indendepent Watchmaking in 2024.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

The Streamliner is one of those luxury sports watches that seem to work no matter what they do with it. H. Moser & Cie can dress it in gold with the blackest black dial ever, or give it a complex chiming mechanism, it doesn’t matter. One of the very best though, in our book at least, was this year’s Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. For us, it’s all about the contrast of the soft flowing curves of the case and bracelet, against the mesmerizing openworked automatic movement that’s all made in-house, balance spring included. The attention to detail in the finishing is top-notch, and that one-minute flying tourbillon escapement is just a joy to see in motion. It’s part of the permanent collection and retails for an admittedly rather hefty EUR 79,000.

For more information on the fabulous H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton, check out our in-depth hands-on here.

Holthinrichs Watches Signature Ornament

We’re quite proud of the rising level of watchmaking coming from our little home country, which is all done by independent craftsmen. The team of Holthinrichs launched the follow-up to their very successful Ornament collection, in the form of the Signature collection. This entry-level range comes in two forms, the 3D-printed Signature LAB series, and this Signature Ornament with a CNC-milled case in titanium. The shape of the case is a true architectural masterpiece with flowing curves, buttresses, and brilliant use of negative space. The Delft Blue dial you see here is just one in a number of dial options, all backed by a Sellita SW300-based automatic, with an in-house-made rotor. Prices start at EUR 3,500 excl. VAT, while this Delft Blue option is priced at EUR 3,750 before taxes.

For more details on the sculptural Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, please head over to our detailed review here.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar

We’ve never hidden our love for Laurent Ferrier’s watches, and the Classic Moon Annual Calendar is another ultra-elegant creation. The pebble-like 40mm wide polished steel case (also available in rose gold by the way) serves as the vessel for a wonderful grey-blue (or silver for the gold case) dial. The subtle hint of light blue for the pointer date indication certainly livens things up, but your eye’s most likely drawn into the double moon phase in the bottom. On top, to windows show you the day of the week and the month. The Calibre LF126.02 received over 30 new components over the movement in the Montre Ecole Annual Calendar it’s based on. The finishing is of the highest order of course, and the Classic Moon Annual Calendar retails for CHF 70,000 (in steel)

For more information on the Classic Moon Annual Calendar by Laurent Ferrier, please check out our hands-on review here.

M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1S

How do you continue from what was an extremely impactful watch when first launched? You upgrade its movement, seek ways to refine it and if possible make it slimmer in the process. Sounds simple, but it’s exactly what the team of MB&F has done with the M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1S. Their M.A.D. 1 was already an amazingly fun and captivating watch, but the M.A.D. 1S is perhaps even better. The new La Joux-Perret G101 automatic replaces the Miyota engine that allowed that top-sided battle axe rotor to spin at maddening speeds. The M.A.D. 1S also drops one of the cylinders, which is the prime reason for the ~20% reduction in height. Time is now read with hour numerals and dots for the quarters. What else do you need? The watch is still sold through the very fair raffle system, for a price of CHF 2,900 excl. VAT.

For more details about the whimsical M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1S, please check out our introduction story here.

Otsuka Lotec No. 6

One of the biggest discoveries in the world of independent watchmaking, not just to us but probably the entire watch community, is Otsuka Lotec. Made by self-taught Japanese watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Otsuka Lotec watches stand out for their industrial instrument-inspired designs. The No. 6 for instance, which is our favourite, uses a bi-retrograde module on top of an automatic Miyota 9015 automatic for the hours and minutes. Next to that it also shows the date between the traditional 3 and 4 o’clock position, and the running seconds by a disc in a small window at 6′. A lot is done in-house, such as the case and the module for its unusual display. It’s a little tricky to get hold of as Otsuka Lotec’s are sold in japan only for now. The price is JPY 440,000 (approx. EUR 2,500 before taxes)

For more information on the super-cool Otsuka Lotec No. 6, please head over to our hands-on review right here.